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Your circled part is the old version of the silver part in your photo. Had the jumper wire caused the fan to run, it would have showed that the thermos-switch (thermostat) was defective. Time to take it to the bikes shop. Konrad out.

Hi Chaps, sorry for the slow reply. Thanks for the info on Dherby Chris, looks like a fantastic place. We have family in Montpellier, great city, have had some fun times down there. We were looking to buy something Normandy / Brittany and did a few weeks scouting around last year. North coast around Lannion was lovely, we're still looking! Thanks for the info also StPauls, that is gold, really appreciate it! Have just bought the pilot jets so will get those sorted asap. The link is great also, good knowledge The electrical issue was the main fuse, replaced and now running again. Whist in there i noticed the loom was so badly installed that the wires to the clocks were being pulled tight on full lock, glad i caught it before they failed. The bike has now stopped idling and does not respond to adjustment of the air / fuel screw at all. Ive had to turn the idle screw up so far to get it to run that i think its not even running on the pilot at idle, hence the air / fuel screw doesnt do anything. I'm assuming the pilot is blocked so had the carb off tonight and blew it all through with compressed air, lets see if that sorts it. I had already fitted an inline fuel filter since the smaller fuel tank was full of plastic swarf when i checked inside, i guess some got through though. The larger fuel tank is also leaking at the joint between tank and petcock, the mounting bracket for the seat was so out of alignment i had to re-drill it and the flasher relay was just flopping about by the battery, not retained at all. 280km from new and so many niggles....gotta say i wouldnt buy another Sherco based on my experience so far. Granted its a cheap one but my Beta xtrainer was only 6.5K new, and thats been faultless in 130hours. Regardless of the niggles i do still like the bike though. Riding a trials bike with a seat for green lane is such a game changer. Im going places i would never take the Xtrainer, its fantastic.

No it is to big I use a 620 for the four stroke Where the needle and needle jet in the choke differ to the 2 stroke one

I did just try that, the fan did not come on, and yes. I will be calling my local bikeshop tomorrow, I'm in way over my head. Okey, so the part that I circled earlier I don't actually need? Btw, when the fan didn't come on when I connected a wire between the two. What does that tell me except that the fan did not work?

I'm so disappointed. I was thinking that every bike should be fitted with a fun module. 😆

What you have circled is for an older model bike. Fun Module is a misprint. It should say Fan Module. The thermostat should actually be called a thermo-switch. It is electrically open when the engine is cool. It closes to turn the fan on when the engine requires cooling. Connect a jumper wire between the two terminals in the photo I have cropped. At this point you may need to enlist someone locally who has some electrical knowledge to help.

How is that done? Thought that I needed (see picture) this to convert from DC to AC? manuals states (fun module) which I don't seem to have. Just the Bobina, big black box with curved edge on one side and the silver box. I've tried to use the multimeter to see if I can get a reading from the thermostat without any luck. just reads 0 on all settings of the multimeter.

Triple clamp guards https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6703985

brake hose guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6703972

Forks bumpers. Sherco https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6703960

Nope. That's an unusual combination CDI and high-tension coil. Silver box is the rectifier/regulator.

Is the Amal Carb for Cub Mk1 626????

Square black box, looks to be your rectifier/regulator and that will be the part that turns AC (Alternating Current) from the alternator (stator coils) into 12 volts DC (Direct Current) required by the fan motor. Conversion to DC from AC uses diodes and diodes are one of the more likely components to fry.

Substitute the thermostat (switch that is in the radiator) with a piece of wire while the engine is running. The fan should run. You can test for DC voltage between the wire leading into the thermostat and chassis ground with a multimeter or a 12V light bulb. BTW, the alternator comprises the flywheel and stator plate behind the flywheel. The yellow wire from the stator provides power for the fan. The stator emits AC and the regulator changes it to DC and and limits the voltage.

I got the fan to spinn with the 12V battery charger.

You can test the fan itself by applying 12 VDC directly to it from a battery. Fan motors often fail if the bike gets pressure washed carelessly.

Hey guys Just bought my second trials bike, old used one. Wanted to try the 300cc. Anyways after some suspension fix, greasing the linkage, changing all the fluids and all that good stuff I wanted to take it for a spinn. Rode for let's say 10 minutes or so. Got back to my driveway and let it idle for 30 sec to a minute. It boiled over and I believe that the fan did not come on. Took the fan and the radiator of the bike, hooked the fan to a battery charger with some wires and the fan worked. So took a look at the electrical system to see if I could see any broken connectors or wires. All seems good to me. I have the Ducati system and I believe the "Fun Module" is missing, it's stated in the parts manual as number 2. Can't find a wiring diagram for my bike, just the 2003 with the Ducati system and that does not show a fun module I believe. Will show you guys some pictures from my bike with what I got as far as electrical parts Third pictures shows everything and the wires in the middle is where the fan goes and no alternator is to be found. As far as electrical system my knowledge is pretty much zero. I did have a look at the water pump to see that nothing was seized or so. I found oil behind the water pump cover but no water in the gearbox oil when i changed it. But is it supposed to be oil next to the water pump? picture below Would be thankful for any replays and insights If your having a hard time reading this it's probably because i'm not a native English speaker. Best regards Adam

Yes, it's repackable and you must drill out the rivets. Oil is a bit like religion, and you will get all manner of answers. A white paper by Maxima indicated that small cylinders require a greater proportion of oil than do larger cylinders. The reasoning is that they are being worked harder and revved higher. But if you are not using the engine to its full potential, it's possible to have too much oil. It's entirely possible the carb is jetted too rich and that is exacerbating the problem. I have found that the needle jet tends to wear oval over time and this causes rich running. Before tuning leaner, I recommend replacing the needle jet. You should also clean the entire exhaust system. Without doing that, you may not realize when things are right because it will keep oozing old unburned oil.

I’ve bought this bike a few months ago. Very pleased with it so far, but it’s obviously not been very well maintained, which is fine as I didn’t pay much and suspected that was the case anyway. My questions relate to the exhaust system. Firstly, it clearly has much black coke inside and every time I ride the bike for any more than about 15-20 mins I get a trickle of black oil running out of the lowest joint. I’m running an oil ratio of 60:1 - is this too much oil, hence the black trickle? Secondly, is this silencer designed to be repacked, and if so do I need to drill out the end cap rivets to get to the inside? Many Thanks

One thing I would check is after you put the float bowl back on to the carb, make sure you can hear the float assembly rattle when you shake the carb it is possible to have the float assembly to hang up on the overflow tube

Trying to remember if it was 09 that the cases changed with the waterways in a different place but basically what I'm saying is that the later cylinders probably don't fit I had my Jarvis cylinder replated last year, definitely the way to go as you know everything is perfect unlike if you buy secondhand

Colby - John Healey is a recognised authority in setting up and using Amal Carbs. Here's what he had to say to a user with the same problem as yours :- "First you must establish that the float level is proper. The tickler travel is determined by how far the roll pin is pressed into the button. The travel is adjustable. To increase the travel pull the pin out of the button a tad. This is easily done with a diagonal cutting pliers (not electricians pliers!). Push the button to exend the pin out of the body as far as it will go. Grasp the pin firmly (it is hardened steel) at the point it is just exiting the body with the diagonal pliers and lever the pin out. Be careful that you don't mark the float bowl gasket face. You should be able to get another 1/8" or so of travel. This should solve your problem. " (I'll add that I haven't actually tried it myself as none of my carbs have ever displayed the problem.) HTH

As well as the gasket thickness, the new float may be slightly different shaped, causing the tickler to miss it. I had the same issue with the tickler not pushing the float down on the same carby. I didn't pursue a solution because I didn't like the carby anyway and fitted an OKO

Lean the bike over on its left side until fuel flows out the tickler hole . That will over flow the float bowl the same way the tickler would. Try that and see what happens

Pictures and details were helpful The kickstand on the TY250A does make it a bit crowded but at least it is easy to figure out placement. There were not many options.