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Thanks guys…. I’ll take another good look at it all tomorrow with fresh eyes!

The 2015 Explorer I recently got was worked on by someone that should not be allowed anywhere near one of these- heck and bike at all. Due to some issues from wrong assembly etc, I wanted to pull gearbox. There are very small screws with a 3mm allen. Why so small, I have no idea. They are plenty big for a much larger head. Anyway, one of them had the allen stripped by the person, another the allen wrench broken off. Fortunately, I came across this before and the fix was easy. I found some small mounted stones that I could use with my Foredom dental handpiece. I connected up a vacuum to get away as much grit as I could, and made an opening in the clutch hub a bit larger. That way I can fit in the special turned down ‘RocketSocket’ and take those out. About 20 minutes of grinding, tapping in the RockeSocket and both were out! Yes, it will require very careful cleaning. But it is out and I can address everything. Too bad OSSA didn’t make those opening a little larger to begin with and make those bolts a better setup. Maybe I will design some that will take a 5mm allen. I think I will

I pulled one recently. If I recall… First I removed the radiator. It is really easy to remove and gives a lot more room. I unlcip the top hose (put a small tool under one of the small holes and they pop right apart) with both hoses unclipped, move it back a little to disengage from airbox, then sift up. You can pry, but be very caerful. Undo power to fan before complete removea. Remove throttle body, move airbox up a bit- then very carefully remove sensor- I suggest warming the hose and grommet and do NOT force it. They break very easily. Once those are out, it will pull down and out easily.

Evening, yes they seem to have stopped producing trials motorcycles and as far as i can gather are making EMTBs, but we have been able to still get most parts for the existing trials models, not sure how long this will last but so far we are getting parts orders. As for Mecatecno we are just awaiting the showing and arrival of the 2025 models, these are cracking bikes and deserve to be a success, as the previous person said its a shame that the trials market can't support these inovative small manufacturers. re Vince.

Logic I apply is that the shifter forks are the softest and most malleable parts in the transmission. ... and because I experienced the problem first hand on my 360VA

I had just assembled a brand new 1995 Fantic section that would not shift at all. After a couple of days of checking the easy stuff I split the motor. I found nothing wrong at all but a blued shift fork from forcing the shift. (Side note, it was assembled without a base gasket from the factory. Plus for the tear down.) Replaced all the shift forks and reassembled. That bike never, ever had another mechanical problem. Just goes to show not all issues are clearly evident. You might fake putting the cases together to get that motor to shift through the gears before the final re - assembly. Good luck.

I get parts from the UK for my Lotus all the time. Usually the costs are not that much at all (a full chassis on the other hand cost more to ship than it cost). The Ti is pretty light.

One problem after another. The bike keeps fighting me me all the way. I noticed that the screw on the throttle body for the TPS has come loose so carefully screwed it back in but hay ho the thread has stripped so now have to rethread the plastic which has now been done. Doing this i had to remove the switch unit and have no lost the correct position so now have to get it to someone who can reset it. Looking at removing the air filter the air box is really dirty and looking down the throttle body that too is dirty with what looks like sooty deposits on the butterfly so have to clean that as well. How is the airbox removed as everything is so compact. Thank.

Hmm. Postage to the UK. That's why i asked where you are based. Thanks.

No, I am in the States.

That’s my next plan… the shafts are fine and they don’t bind on them.. I was going to put the shafts into vee blocks and check the squareness of the selector forks. Initial inspection shows nothing up..

I presume you are not in the UK.

I got a quote from a different outfit. Looks like I could sell them for about $600 in Titanium, with all the pins included. I am ordering one set and I will see how the quality is and do a final on making sure my design is correct. I already fit my 3D printed parts and all seems good, but of course I cannot put any sort of load on the plastic parts at all. This is good news. The main link bearings is additional cost, the ones I got so far were not cheap- but I likely could source the same ones someplace else for less. It will have small grease fittings on all the pins.

Following on with clutch talk. Is it just trials bikes or just Ossa with clutch problems. The reason is that my Ossa has dragging on its clutch but my Suzuki 1000 road bike has no trouble and its has 27000 miles on it and i also had a KTM 300 EXC enduro which had two seasons of competition on it. Thanks.

I know it is a DT but there might be something there for you.

Check the shift forks for slight bends or wear on the tips or binding on the shaft.

Yes Konrad i was going to say similar to you about the difference with the Ossa but you explained it much better. Regarding the control ring i have found the website from the said item manufacturer and it seems that the 1 2 3 adjustment is to take up the difference in clutch wear. That was through translation. Thank you for your input. Both of you.

I found this: https://www.ohtokc.com/products/electronic-ignition-yamaha-ty250-hit Did not see any written installation instructions on that website.

I've used that technique many times with conventional (wire spring) clutches. But I would not recommend it with the OSSA for two reasons. 1. There are 18 small, slippery screws that can easily be dropped. 2. A thrust washer at the end of the kick-start shaft that is likely to fall off when reinstalling the clutch cover with the bike is in that orientation. In fact, I lean the bike in the opposite direction to ensure the washer stays put. To the OP, the control ring number you select depends mostly on the thickness of your clutch pack. https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/my-upgrades/clutch-control-ring https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/clutch

You can usually lean bikes on their side to work on the clutch without draining the oil

Hello to who ever reads this. As title above i have just fitted one of these clutches to my bike and though has any one used the 1 2 3 adjustment on these. I have just used number one and fitted the cover and before i fill up with new oil wondered about these adjustments. Having to drain the new oil and take off the cover and then have a chance of damaging the gasket for no gain is a no no ergo why i thought i would ask on here. Thank you.

Yes that was my first thought that it had snapped again but it’s fine hence why I’ve now stripped the gearbox

Hello out there from Grants Pass Oregon. I have a 74 TY250 in pieces except the engine. Anyone know of a video perhaps that shows a rebuild from beginning to end? Thanks!

You’re not missing much. The 23+ are easier to start (note: still not trivial to start) and has a bendy fender that looks real nice. If you know the trick to starting a GasGas it’s not a deal breaker. As bendy as they are, I’ve broken way more fenders with the 2023 than I ever did on my 2021. I’m doing more advanced stuff though. They seem to have a weak point where it meets the airbox and the plastic pins just shear off like it’s nothing. I’d consider grinding the next one down so there’s less stress with a fender impact, but my current duct taped fender is doing just fine at it so far. 😆 The difference in pegs and frame are personal preference. If it bugs you, maybe it’s a reason to upgrade 🤷‍♀️ Personally, I got held up in the shiny bendy fender hype and really enjoy it being easier to start. I like the look of the new model years better too.