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Unfortunately in some countries they're the only tyres Dunlop bring in, here in NZ we have the choice of Michelin or the TL01 unless we can somehow manage to import something else.

My advice would be to buy a genuine YAMAHA gasket 38V-11351-10 . Yes the gasket should have port cut outs so that fuel flows easily up to the top of the piston from the crank case. and to the crank bearings also.

Thanks for getting back, I mean my existing gasket that's on the engine has zero cut outs except for the piston area in the middle, makes me wonder how the gates flow correctly through the ports. Cheers Rob.

Here's my assessment of this engine. It's not pretty. Low engine oil (in the engine compartment, not the gearbox, I should clarify, because it's separate on this model). The white timing chain guide is starting to melt in small pieces (which end up in the oil strainer). Engine overheating... blown head gasket... no coolant... burnt oil getting into the cooling system... fantastic! Well, This engine is built like a tank! There is some wear, but frankly, it's very surprising how little there is. The crankshaft bearings have some play, but they don't make any noise. The connecting rod big end has no play at all... but the small end shows significant wear without any material being torn away. The piston pin is still within tolerances. No discoloration from overheating or any apparent defects. The piston is out of order, but without any signs of seizing. The cylinder is good. A quick hone for the occasion, but nothing more. (phew, €€€) The cylinder head needs checking. I have a broken screw in a thread that's causing me a problem. Another used cylinder head is arriving, and I'll take the opportunity to rework the ports because there are some significant steps. Valve stem seals will be replaced, and the valve seats will be checked. The rocker arms are good, the camshaft is perfect, as are its bearings. Considering the conditions this engine has run in, it's a miracle it's not destroyed. The reason? It's an engine derived from a motocross engine, so it's oversized for trials use in many respects. I'm going to rebuild it properly with a new cylinder head, connecting rod, piston, bearings, and gaskets, and that will be a great chapter in this motorcycle's history!

mcman56 is talking about a BETA EVO brake being bad not a REV3 which he said is good.

I’ve had my rev3 out today and even after standing, the rear brake is decent, must be a system issue with yours @mcman56. Be methodical with your strip down and refurb and it will be good.

Hello. If I were in your situation I would fix it. As you are asking for advice as to how to do that then I recommend that you buy a new brake pedal , a new brake pedal pivot bolt and a new brake pedal push pin. Fit these and you will have the foundations for a brake that works. Next thing is to buy a brake fluid vacuum pump that will pull brake fluid through the hose , master ,slave and brake cylinders. When you have done these things Google how to bleed a dirt bike brake system Youtube , and watch that . That's it. Job done and a brake that works .

problem is even if i shave off some material the brake pedal is basically already bottomed out since it touches the frame very shortly after... im starting to think that maybe the previous owner fitted lowered pegs... Also the lever slightly bends inward when you push on it and it touches the chain making a very unpleasant sound and vibrating the pedal.

A new conrod is coming. To much gap for the piston axle.

Hey, Does anyone have the service manual for a 2022 Vertigo Nitro Works 250? I'd really appreciate it if you could share it. Thanks!

Both forks need to be working the same inside to avoid problems and for it to be nice to ride. It's not clear from your explanation what is going on. Maybe post photos of the fork internals showing right side vs left side

Do you mean the port cutouts on the existing gasket are in the wrong place or the gaskets you've seen advertised have the port cutouts in the wrong place?

Hi ti all, replacing base gasket and I notice the existing one is made of a thick gasket paper and the genuine ones I see for sale all have the port cutouts where my old one does not. Only recently purchased and appeared to run ok but was leaking around the base gasket when hot. Many thanks for any advice. Cheers Rob from NZ.

I can't believe anyone are still buying these. I bought one of the first sets available, rode one event and threw them in the trash.

My Rev3 brake works well tbh, perhaps the system needs an overhaul and new pads/fluid?

I have a faint memory of shaving off some material from the area where the adjustment screw goes through the brake pedal on my 2008 Rev3. It did not take much. This was needed to get the pedal to sit lower. In my experience Rev3s have very nice rear brakes so yours must have an issue. I have had two Rev3s and two Evos. The Rev3 rear brake is highly superior to the Evo brake. The Evo brake will work if you stomp on it but is quite weak and has very little feel.

Thanks, RonH!! I'm grateful for your reply here. Yeah, that was not the answer I was hoping for, but it kinda confirms 1): stuff I've been reading online, and watching in videos, and 2): it kinda explains why the paint put on by the previous owner is flakier than all git out. I don't know if you're located in the U.S. as I am, or if you're familiar with Rustoleum brand paints like their inexpensive line of rattle cans and quarts called "Stops Rust" Gloss Protective Enamel. I've had really good luck with this paint on metal (like the swingarm) & wood whether from a rattle can, or stuff I mix up with acetone and Valspar hardener and shoot from a spray gun. It's cheap, easy to come by for me, and fairly durable. But I *think* it's basically just an ordinary oil-based enamel, and probably not the acrylic enamel that you recommended? FWIW, here's a pic of what I've done so far, regarding prep. I've sanded what I consider "the hard parts" (has all the intricate curves and such) of the fibeglass base with 120 grit. I know that I want all that flaking paint off, and figured I may as well take it the mostly bare fiberglass while I'm doing it. I just hope I can follow the contours well enough of the parts of the base not covered by the seat. I also found a couple of cracks, and some chips in this base I'll need to repair before priming. For some reason, the entire part I've sanded, and some I haven't had a thick layer of silver silicone seal over all of it that the seat covered. It clogs my 120 grit sandpaper up like crazy, and doesn't make this kinda tedious job a bit more difficult. Again, many thanks for your advice and help here, RonH!!

Hi everyone, this is my first post here. I just bought a 2008 rev3 250 and i absolutely love it... but the rear brake pedal is just too uncomfortable. it sits way too high and i have to keep my foot tilted upwards all the time and no amount of adjustment can bring the brake pedal at the same level as the foot peg without making it unusable due to it touching the frame. I would also argue that the rear brake is very weak even though the whole system is in good condition. Any amount of help is welcome!

🤔 By repackaging something simple and selling it like something special ? Yep, shop at your local farm supply where people buy oil by the pail and get the same stuff or better at a fraction of the cost, then you can retire the rich guy that lives in his own trials area 👍

You’re not gong to like my answer but here it is anyway. Yes, painting fiberglass requires a specialized bonding primer and high-quality exterior or marine-grade paint to prevent peeling and ensure proper adhesion. Because fiberglass is smooth and non-porous, standard paints and primers will not bond to it without the proper chemical or physical base. Use a two-part (2K) epoxy primer or a dedicated bonding primer obviously after sanding and cleaning. Use a marine-grade polyurethane or acrylic enamel paint.

poor people are starting to realise how rich people got rich , why sell a 100 bottles when you can sell just one and then take the rest of the day off. to cheat at golf.

Found 08C35-HTX-740 in stock and available from Acura dealers 👍 it's only $144.60 CDN 🤣 that's a lot for happy.

It's time to see what's going on this engine. Cameshaft and bearings perfect Cylinder rock solid! Perfect ! Piston very worn but nicely worn 😅 The crankshaft need new bearings New timing chain and new white guide needed. Good news. And because it's a 250 cc, parts are less expensive than 260 / 300 / 301 !

Hey, All! I'm slowly getting work done on my project TY250A. I got the swingarm "repaired", sandblasted, primered and shot some rattle can enamel on it today. The old "bumps" on the the swingarm that the snail chain adjusters push off of were really worn with grooves somehow. Maybe someone (previous owner) let the rear axle get loose? I say this because there is also damage to the dust collar on the drive side of the sprocket and the inside of the swingarm itself. I dunno how it could've happened, but it did. I ground off the old bumps, and drilled and tapped for 6mm allen headed bolts for the adjusters to work from: Now, I'm working on my fiberglass seat base. I made new brackets for the seat's rear mount before I found out that Feked sells them. Now, I'm sanding off the yellow flaking paint the PO put on, as well as some of the original yellow, down to the bare 'glass. My questions are: Does painting fiberglass actually require any "special" type of primer and paint? I'd really like to just put on some paint I can easily/inexpensively buy for now, and can use for future repairs. Something like a rattle can primer with rattle can hi-gloss enamel over that? I don't really want to shoot, say, colored gel coat on, or some of the more pricey marine products. Sorry for what's probably a stupid question. I suppose I need to say that I want this bike to be something I ride and crash, not a restoration showpiece. It's been 40+ years since I've done any bodywork involving fiberglass, and while I don't recall doing anything special while putting on and glassing in some fiberglass fender flares for my old Datsun 510, I would suppose there's been some improvements in chemicals for painting fiberglass by now........ Thanks for your help here, Jimmie

Hello, I do not think anyone can argue with your logic it is just a Trial bike thing , Certain brands of stuff are what make people happy in their world. The main question is why would a person need to spend 8000.00 when they could save themselves 7000.00. https://youtu.be/4TGavmuYCCQ?si=IxjTqoG2zf5EE Start it a 3m 46s for some trials action. There are many people in UK club trials who would struggle to do that on a current 2026 250cc bike..