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You could maybe try unplugging the White to White/Yellow wire coming out of the engine. Diagram appears to show it as being a dedicated lighting coil output.

Thanks Lemur! its the rear tail light too - and as i do use it on the road as a daily beater duct tape is not super practical...(but agreed a simple solution!) perhaps some kind of slip on / slip off 'occluding cover' is the way forward. might be easier! appreciate you. hope all's well with you

Simple solution would be to simply occlude it. Black duct tape 😎

Glad to hear you've identified the problem. Now its can you repair the old one good enough to use, or buy a new one?

Hello friends, hoping someone with more knowledge than I could help with a question!... I have a TLR reflex that I use for trials, however it is fully road legal as I need to ride to my spots. Is there any way one could install some kind of switch to essentially turn the 'lighting' circuit off but keep the bike running? i was told it runs 2 seperate circuits.... Currently the woods are mid winter bare and the lack of leaf cover makes me quite visible to passers by (cop callers). Thealways on headlight esp can be seen a mile off! just wondering if one could install a 'stealth' option...has anyone done this? Not sure where in the wiring one would put it or if it's even possible? Thank you so much in advance for any help!..Johnny in NY

As an observation if a spanner fits a bolt head or nut and loosens/tightens the thing without damaging it/them it being metric or imperial is irrelevant. In my garage I use whatever gets the job done.

All vehicles manufactured today use metric fasteners. Even US automakers started transitioning to metric in the 1970s.

As an update, the right crankshaft seal was changed which stopped the transmission oil leak into the engine oil.

Hi all , interesting observation, have a beta evo 200 2023 model , and bought new set of metric ring spanners and discovered my imperial ring spanners are a tighter fit , I assumed it would all be metric but I could be wrong , any observations out there , regards

The stock skid plate is weak. I replaced mine and my son`s with the CSP before we even rode them. Pic in avitar.

I've accepted that I'll need a brake master cylinder on the handlebar and I've learned that operating a clutch and brake lever simultaneously with one hand is far from ideal, so I think I should get an E bike and give up on a clutch. The Escape X looks really good, it's readily available and reasonably priced, but I have one problem with it. The only way I can mount and dismount a full sized motorcycle is to step on one foot peg while on the side stand then swing my leg over, there's no way the Trials type side stand on the EM will support that. If I could ride standing all the time like I used to I'd get a Trials bike, of course if I could do that I'd be able to swing my leg over a motorcycle. It seems like such a silly thing to get between me and a new motorcycle but I can't see a good way around it.

Hi thanks for the responses, I fully expect to scratch , scrape and damage the bike due to to the nature of the sport even more so having never ridden a motorcycle, I now have 3 hours under my belt 😂 I am just really looking to give the bike some more protection such as a better sump guard that covers additional area than the original and as mentioned some casing covers. i am also bit of kid at heart and love fancy anodised parts. thanks 👍

@LaVern Too clarify what I mean I will just say that the Worlds best Trials riders did not get where they are by worrying about damaging their bikes.

Thank you so much that's just what I needed you are a star Andy

@Chillout1983 My advice if you are scared too use your bike because it may get damaged would be to sell it and buy an older bike that is cheaper and that already has scratches and scrapes all over it and then go and concentrate on riding in the knowledge that you will not be upset if the bike gets damaged if you crash it. This way you can enjoy trials riding instead of worrying about your precious , unless of course it is what things look like that is more important to you than your riding. Old scratched up bikes do not have to be bad mechanically just rebuild it , replace with new the bits that actually matter put brand new brake parts on it , new clutch etc replace the seals and all the bearings , a bike that works like a new one but can be thrown on the ground without any tears is such a liberating feeling . I like to keep this in mind always " The things you own end up owning you". Enjoy your riding Best wishes Alan.

I recommend a low cost clutch cover guard that covers the whole case (400$ part) and not just the bottom part and found the best way to keep it on is to use 2 sided tape instead of the bolts.

Hi, I am new to trials I have a very lightly used 4rt I would like to keep it as good as possible 😂 I currently have the standard sump guard with a wrap around water pump guard I am looking at guards from CSP, S3 and MITANI (full protection kit) I also thinking I will buy a linkage guard any advise appreciated. thanks

I think I found what you need here: http://docodocodoco.com/bike/BETA_REV3.html

hi all just wondering if anybody has got a wiring diagram for this its of a beta rev 3 and i need to fit it to a beta zero witch I'm told can be done just need to no what wires do what and go where or pointing to someone who has done this in the past Many thanks Andy

Any ideas of the correct color for the frame on a TY 350?

Hi Konrad. A proper high voltage probe would have been nice but I just used the clip-on inductive pick up from an old tach/dwell meter - remember those? Also used on timing lights. The red thing below... I just attached a BNC connector to make an easy connection to the scope. I thought it might be better than winding wire around the plug lead. The duration of the spark is extremely short. Unfortunately, at the relatively slow timebase needed to show the other signals, the spark impulse is just one pixel wide. It's hard to see but I just wanted to verify the spark occurs when the ground is removed from the coil - same as a traditional "Kettering" points ignition (and unlike CDI used on other bikes).

What are you using to monitor that signal? I have a Hantek HT-25 "capacitive" probe, but never been too impressed with it. Supposedly 10,000:1, but I have doubts about the accuracy of that number.

Not really. Those stator windings feed three phase AC to the rectifier/regulator to provide 12v DC to power everything. Those are connected via the three yellow wires on the 3 pin plug. There are multiple magnets in the flywheel passing those coils. Ch1 on the scope is connected to the Pulser or pick-up coil shown top right of your photo (with the two mounting holes). It sits external to the flywheel and detects holes and slots machined into the outside of the flywheel. That is connected to the white and green wires in the 2 pin connector. Most bikes have only one slot in the flywheel for timing but the 4RT has a row of nine then a gap. Edit: The Pulser wires are actually white/yellow and green/yellow.