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Evening mate. No didn't get any reply so stuck with the standard plug but will try a 4 soon

32 spokes rear wheel, 750grs less than 36 spokes wheel. Dry weight : 71.5kg (- 6kg)

It's a radial rear and it's stamped for 'trials competition use only' right on the sidewall, I'm guessing it's a trials tire worth a try. It's not like a rear tire lasts any longer than one season anyway. + If they are any good you can bet the price will increase.

Yes faussy I agree .He could also try the MITAS PRO and the PIRELLI MT43 , I have not tried them but they look like Trials tyres. At club level I do not think tyres make much difference. That is also true of the bikes that people use , regular competitors know that a old Fantic 125 twinshock will beat a 300 Vertigo with the right rider on board. It makes one wonder why people bother at club level with all the expense. There is a review on instagram by an competent Australian rider and the Kenda IBEX gets a good review all round , the only exception being that the tyre folds when pushed hard.

I did not know anything about the Ibex, but it's a great name for an off-road tire. A quick search revealed the Ibex endurocross tire. I would not ride that in a trial! How could faussy be so wrong? Turns out, there is a trials-specific Ibex, the K7104F and K7105. https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-eu/find-a-tire/motorcyclescooter/mxoff-road/ibex-trials/ Yup, that looks like a trials tire. But the durometer of the rubber would still be a big consideration for me. See: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/trials-tires

Disagree. Not everyone is wanting to go win their local trial, and I guarantee if I put the Kenda on I would still beat 90% of the riders using michelins. FYI, I haven't even tried one yet, but I know just by looking at it, its a decent tire

Michelin , Dunlop D803 GP , IRC Rear . Anything else is not a serious tire/tyre for the sport at this present time

Restoration of a pair of original 4RT 32-spoke wheels. Sandblasting, painting, and polishing of the hubs, SKF bearings. Cleaning and treatment of the spokes. Deglazing of the discs. The weight saving on the front wheel is 700 grams less than 315R wheel! Spokes nipples are aluminum, brake disc, different hub, and four fewer spokes... a significant weight reduction.

Welcome! That’s great to hear about your sons. Would love to see some photos of them doing their thing. I can’t get my son interested. How’d you do it?

We were on the right track. Took the bike to my local dealer, got instant service. Traced the issue to a lack of fuel pump pressure. The control relay was somewhat corroded. Replace it, fuel pressure back to normal, problem solved. Happy days.

Time for a new rear tyre. I got to see side by side the Michelin X11, IRC, and kenda Ibex and the ibex was definitely a nice gummy compound, softer than the other two. I assumed the downside of them must be the wear rate but talking with the vendor and googling it doesn't appear to be the case (weirdly the opposite in fact). There is a suggestion the ibex side wall may be slightly stiffer than a x-light but that's all. I can't really seem to find a negative thing about them. So why would I buy a £140 tyre when an ibex is half that? Looking for input from anyone with firsthand experience with them...

Hi, new to the group. I have joined as this looks like the place for everything trials related! I used to trial myself around the mid-90s as a young teenager. Now my sons have shown an interest so I have supported them into trials. They've been on Osets the past year as an introduction to the sport and my oldest (13) just upgraded to a Gasgas 125.

Non-powerjet. If you want an OKO, the model is K-100 and people usually run a 26mm or 28mm

Thanks for the reply , I must admit without taking the carb to pieces once again I'm not sure it has the tang plate fitted! From memory just two floats which rise up and down on two vertical steel pins and a little plate that connects to the needle valve.......I could be wrong I frequently am these days

Sorry to resurrect a 6 years old topic but... was it the model with or without the "powerjet"? I just fitted one of the chinese PWK clones on my 250 Pioneer engine with Explorer exhaust... the stock jetting seems to be too lean (38 idle jet, 120 main). I just replaced the idle with a 45 as the bike tends to die even with the air mixture screw totally closed. Not sure the 120 main is big enough, we'll see.

Thanks. I will see about that.

The cap is on there to make the fuel pump work better. The cap is small compared to the one on a Montesa, personally I think I would double up on the cap, that would be cheap and easy, might even give immediate results if the cap on it is lacking.

Ok, thanks. It has a tiny capacitor for the ecu, but not for starting. I do have a local shop with excellent technical knowledge, maybe i will just take it there. I bought this bike from the owner and he has been extremely helpful on issues that pop up. If I can't sort it out, it may have to go.

From what I've seen there is a lack of consistency in design and execution in their production bikes, so you are best to reverse engineer what you have purchased. Wiring diagrams that I have seen are sketchy and incomplete. One of my riding partners owns two of them now, he bought the second bike in the hope it would be a better starter and is still struggling with starting and lean fuel operation issues. Some have a battery and some have a cap but to be honest I expect it needs both. Capacitors charge relatively fast off the kick starter compared to a battery that stores a lot more electricity, but the solid state battery really lacks power in cold temps and your alternator needs to be operating at peak efficiency to generate sufficient power to both run the engine and charge the battery / cap to charge operating capacity so personally I would start right at inspecting the alternator and scope test everything on the wiring harness down stream of that. A boost or charge port for the battery is the best way to troubleshoot the battery and is a good add to any Fi or electric start bike imo.

That sounds like a very good start. I have been told to try cracking the throttle a bit at the end of the kick travel. That doesn't seem to do anything. Where do I check the fuel pump voltage? Not sure if even have a wiring diagram. Can you point me to one? Also it was recommended to richen the tps setting. Not sure how to do that yet. Any more specific tips are welcome. By the way, once it starts it runs fine and does generally re start fine. Thanks.

I'd be checking the fuel pressure and if your bike is fitted with a capacitor in addition to the battery, she won't start without fuel pressure and it can not achieve fuel pressure unless the electrics are fully functional to support it. Checking the battery voltage at the fuel pump and not at the battery terminals is a good start because you may have voltage drop from bad connections before it reaches the pump or with poor grounding. Hope this helps some 👍

My 2022 Vertigo Nitro JB replica with battery, is extremely difficult to start. As the temperature drops more kicks are required to start it. In the garage at 10c it took 70 kicks to start it. Battery is good 13.3 volts, throttle body just cleaned and mass air flow cleaned, new plug. Took so long I thought it was broken. Suggestions please.

I did get one and install. It does feel more lively and seems to absorb more for a more cushioned ride.

I don't know for sure but I have heard the welding on the seams of the aluminum tanks is poor.

All credit to the Hell team in Australia. Link to the library of GasGas information and you can poke around and find it. https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals or this may Link to the 1999 parts book https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0Mfile5AhnmY3ZVUGs5Z1BMTTA?resourcekey=0-Mu7q122qaYNUoKRk-3aVVw