gwhy

it would depend on price for me.. they both have the same tech and also from what I have seen of the beta ( approx 12months ago there were a few design flaws with the frame but they may have addressed this now ) so this would also be a factor for me if this have not been sorted.. keep a eye out for the 2015 Kuberg Challenger trials bike (different tech) and it looks better build quality than the smaller kuberg range of bike.. but I have no idea what the cost is going to be.

If you have never ridden a electric before then I know you are going to like it once you get used to the differences ... yes please do report back

so is that with the gearing that the guy is using in the video and/or is that standard ?.. the only reason I am interested in the actual top speed is you can work out how much torque it got . I know some of the specs of the motor they are using and possibly the controller spec so you can get a very good picture of what the bike is capable of. Its not a speed thing its a power/torque thing .. You should know all about this if you put together a diy e-trials bike ..

I wonder what they mean limited to 55k as it will all depend on gearing and the bike will not know what the gearing is, unless they mean thats the max speed that can be achieved with the tallest gearing that can be fitted on the bike . Has anyone actually measure the top speed on a standard EM ?

I would love to get a test ride on one as I'm sure it will be more than capable than I am, but even with a sport model I know it will be heavier, have a taller seat height, more weight towards the top of the bike and have less power than my current bike. But it do still look nice and it do work, which have been proved.

without going into to much detail as they have there own R&D department .. the obvious ones are weight and power.. Now I don't know exactly what power the bike used in the nationals is putting out or what the top speed is geared for but I can have a educated guess looking at the motor they are using and i think i know what controller they are using, the weight of the EM is in there spec sheet so that's a easy one and I know both these can be better. there are also other improvements that can be made but I'm sure they have these in hand

I am not knocking it, but it can be improved upon. I have ridden electric trials bikes ( more than a few) but not the em.. I have a electric trials that I have had nearly 3 years of my own . I totally agree riding electric is different to gas but that don't mean you have to compromise on function. Edit: why can't it be a replacement for a gas bike that don't have to have a massive range per charge ?

I am referring to the one used in the nationals, and I am sure its not a off the self model,, but it is still is lacking ..which some people have commented on , there is so much more that can be done to improve aspects of this bike. Please don't get me wrong I am a big fan of EM as it has opened peoples eyes to the potential. As regards the performance of this bike it will be enough for maybe 80% of club riders ability but its human nature that people always want more. I personally have not rode one of these bikes but I talked to people that have and also studied videos of the bike in action, I have worked on a lot of e-bike projects over the years so have a very clear understanding what can be achieved with current technology. If I had the money I would make a rival bike that would be better in all aspects .

there are many things that can be done to address these drawbacks with this bike.. it may take a different manufacture to find a better way of doing things, but I'm sure EM is already looking to improve the things that the current model falls short on, I know what I would do to improve it .. the technology is already available and it just needs to be implemented in the best way which EM has not found yet.

this very much depends on the type of controller but I would say 98% sure it should have no drag ( I don t know anything about the T12 or what motor or controller they use ) , try disconnecting the motor wires.. is it still hard to push ? if not then its a big possibility that the controller is faulty..

looking good...

you need to work out how to post pics !.. wish i can see it more clearly but looks good so far

In water and mud (if well designed) Electric bikes should actually be better than a gas bike for reliability. to have spare battery's or a fast way of charging is the key to get the most out of a electric bike. The cost of battery cells are coming down and should only get cheaper and better, as long as the battery manufacturers pass these savings on then everyone will be happy.. or you could make your own battery's if you really wanted to have a spare battery for as low cost as possible. The problem with riding a EM5.7 is it still looks very much like a motorcycle but unless you are actually seen then the chances are it will be fine for riding anywhere you like but it will not be legal. If you want some thing "more" legal to play with and something that don't look like a motorcycle ( and just as much fun ), then something like this fits the bill ( just for the record this is a home made bike and nothing to do with gasgas ) Its going to be something like this that will make urban trials more acceptable initially. The cost will also be so much cheaper and this will open the sport up to more people .

you would need a very very very big solar array to fast charge..

Before i would part with that sort of money i would want to know the spec of the bms and the spec/type of the cells inside the pack, a set of high discharge lipos for 36v@10Ah will cost less than £100 delivered , so it really depends on bms,charger and battery spec and the advert don't really give much away.

no worries Scott, the second test above would have showed that up .. with any type of fault like this its always best to measure voltage through the system under load, and this will 9 times out of 10 point you to what is causing the problem. glad you now have it sorted..

somebody did will the bike!..

Hi Scott, sounds like you have tried everything,, here something you can try : disconnect the motor and measure the resistance of the motor, it should be very low then give it a spin via the rear wheel and measure the resistance again ,, it should be the same resistance as before you spun the wheel try this a few times. if the brushes or commutator is worn then this should show up as a high resistance when the motor is stationary.. let us know the readings then we can go from there. or clip a volt meter onto the 2 leads going to the motor then wiht the bike rear wheel off the ground give it full throttle and see what voltage is being delivered to the motor ( it should be near battery voltage ) the voltage shoud not drop to much if you now apply the rear brake a little, if the voltage drops away very fast and there is no torque then its likely that you have a high resistance somewhere in the system, could even be the battery's... do the same test but before the controller if you get the same results then its likely that its not the controller at fault

Some video video of the 24 in action in this vid

Yes these packs are a lot more user friendly than home built lipo batteries but care is still needed so you CAN NOT treat them just like sla's and a special CC/CV charger is still required.

this diagram shows the fuse that you are referring to:

there are no specs as far as i know as its a concept bike ( ATM )

Oset MX-10

I think if you have given lipo ago and decided that is not for you then I would agree that the earthX batteries is a very good alternative as they can be treated as the standard sla batteries.