gwhy

as far as I know the kellys will work fine with a pot throttle 0-5v input.. but you may have to specify the throttle type when programming ( hall throttles are 0.8v-4.2v , pot throttles are 0-5v ) but even so, I dont think this will cause the problem that you are having , it may be worth dropping kelly a e-mail describing the problem as they do have a habit of changing there firmware within the controller that can introduce problems.. but the chances are it is a programming issue. can you post up a couple of screen grabs ( pictures ) of the programming software that shows the parameters that you can set ?

I agree with nostroke about the throttle ramps, on electric its not really necessary as the power delivery is linear unlike a gas motor, ramps on gas motors iron out the non-linear power curve or can also be used to put the use-able power into a certain spot on the throttle. But having said that its no big deal to incorporate throttle ramps on electric and may be of some use to some, but more for tuning the throttle resolution through out its range. Me and nostroke will have to agree to disagree about a e-clutch :-), but it do depend on how a e-clutch is implemented within the control system to how much benefit it brings. As long as a electric bike has enough torque to throw the rear wheel up into the air after throwing the rider off the back then there is enough torque to do what every a gas bike can do and then it just becomes a matter of controlling that torque in a usable way.

Yes the specs of this bike is not very impressive for the a price of $9k but having said that its about the same spec as a EM5.7 and the E-gasgas which is around $7k. At least yours is up there with the power of a 250 and not a 125 :-)

Thats interesting I heard that they will be 6499 euro which will be around $9,000 US : $9k will be over the top but $6.5k UD is a realistic price

or a resistor and capacitor will also sort it out ( does exactly the same as the kelly ), there are also other ways to tame it without spending a lot of money.

Cool , try and get some video if you can I would like to see it in action..

did you use the same setup for the electrics as your other one?

very nice

If selecting a lifepo4 e-bike battery for these bikes then you need to make sure that the battery can supply the required current and that the built in bms ( on most e-bike batterys ) can also deliver the current without shutting the battery down.

For a 36v setup then 2x5s in series will give you around 41v hot off the charger ( this is fine and will make the bike have a little more top end ) , If you have 2 chargers then either pairs of 5s ( for 36v ) or pairs of 6s ( for 48v ) makes the easiest way to charge the battery's. Once you start looking at chargers to 6+ cells these become a lot more expensive. if putting battery's in series and/or in parallel then they should all be the same capacity and all the individual cells need to be in good condition ( balanced ) . 2x 5s1p 5000mah in parallel = 18.5v 10ah lipo , treat this as one battery you connect 2 of these 18.5v battery's in series to make the 37v 10ah battery. either hardwire the 2x5s battery's in parallel or you can make plug adaptors to fit the 2 5c battery's together. here are the connections/plugs that you require to wire up either a 36v or a 48v setup. There are many ways to do this but this is how I do it.

Nice one,, Im sure it will be fine now.

it do sound like either bearing/rust or a brush problem in the motor, to confirm that the noise is coming from the motor just disconnect the final drive chain from the wheel ( this will rule out wheel bearing/rubbing and chain ) . The motors are ok to get apart but can be diffecult to put back together due to getting the 4 brushes in place ( use some strong cotton to pull the brushes fully into there holders and hold these in place with some tape on the outside of the motor, The cotten can them be pulled out once you have the endcap of the motor in place ) . The magnets are very strong so be very careful where you put your fingers ( you dont want to get them crushed ) you dont have to take the armmature out of the magnets if you just want to replace the bearings or the brushes.

Have a look through this thread for some ideas on solutions to this problem http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39515-snatcy-throttle-on-36v/ The RC filter on the throttle is the cheapest option but its not a complete solution. The RC filter will cause a very steady increase ramp in throttle voltage i.e if you over shoot a little with the initial twist of the throttle rather than outputting this step to the motor it will slowly ramp the step in voltage and this very slight delay gives you enough time to readjust the amount of twist. Its very difficult to picture because you are only talking less than a 1/4 of a second over the complete travel of throttle so the very first bit of travel will be even a quicker ramp but its enough to make the throttle a little more controllable... the only draw back with this very simple RC circuit ( a resistor and a capacitor ) is that it will also have this very small ramp ( but down ) when shutting the throttle off, but with a few more components a circuit can be made that will follow the throttle realtime but only when its is going in the negitive direction and still have this very quick ramp up time in the postitive direction. ( it is basically the same arrangment that the pico addon does and what some of the other makes of contollers does) If anyone wants to have a play around with this sort of circuit then let me know and I will draw one up and post it on here.

All the same rules as regards lipo's all the info is in this thread.. 48v system.. so sets of 12s lipos, 2x 6s is the most user friendly setup for charging.

wouldnt 5" and 4" tyres require a extra wide hub ? , are these on 24" rims? and last question... where can I get some

yes sounds like brushes.. but worst case scenario it can be a open circuit winding in the motor :-(

I don't know much about the 20" controller but pretty sure it has a thermal safe mode but I think this should just reduce output power and not really stop the bike from running. The motor do not have any feedback to the controller. There will not be any feed back to the controller about the speed of the bike. Most controllers (but not all) will peak higher than there rated current for a set time. What you need to do is check the watt meter and look for the min voltage reading, 48v controllers tend to have a 41-42v lvc . If the voltage is dropping below the lvc of the controller ( this could be down to the batterys, the bms in the battery or the main wiring from batteries to controller ) this may cause this sort of problem ( watt meter need to be as close to the controller as pos to test ) and the fact that you need to reset ( restart ) the controller could also point to a lvc problem, but Im not 100% sure it could be even something like a bad (intermittent ) connection on the throttle and this puts the controller into fault mode but gets cleared when reset.

yes, they will do the job very well, they do cost a little more but they perform better ( will not really be noticable on a oset ) and they are slightly smaller in size.

Ideally you need 5000mhA but can get get away with 15C or 20C yes you will need 4 of them to make up a 10ah battery pack.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/34845-oset-batteries-lithium-lipo-conversion-directions/page__st__150 the info that you are after starts on this page of this thread but all the info in this thread is relevent. It can work out very expensive if you overlook some detail.., batterys from hobbyking ( uk warehouse) , chargers and additional stuff from hobbyking, giantshark.co.uk or ebay.

The bearings on all oset motors now have a dust/oil seal and if they haven't then they should. The 36v motor is a off the shelf motor but I think it has been wound to spec for oset ( I could be wrong on this ) but the 48v is defo a custom wound motor and the new 48v motors also have custom end caps specific to oset, unless they are being sold by the manufactures to other distributors . A brushed motor is a brushed motor at the end of the day and the only things that can change is the internals but the bearing arrangement will be a constant on 98% of all brushed motors and all the oset motors fall with in this 98% if you are replacing bearings bought from oset or another supplier then next time get a much better quality bearing from a different supplier and defo fit a dust/oil seal or buy a sealed bearing or even better a ceramic bearing.

how can you say that a gas bike is more reliable than a good electric bike ( well i can see it in your case with 3 motor bearing replacements in 12 months , ) . Things ware out and brake but I bet you cant replace the main bearings on a gas bike in 20mins for £4 but you can on a electric motor , parts are cheaper on a electric so just carry spares as the complete electrical system can be swapped out in 30mins. The nice thing about a electric bike is less maintenance over a gas bike not sure what you are doing with your bike my guess is the chain is not adjust correctly or the bearing seals are not seated correctly. The oset motor is not a standard wind motor so very difficult to get off the self from anywhere else without a lot of trial and error and the new oset motor is a totally custom motor, your obviously not to bothered about performance.

Maybe a good idea to give your location, then someone can point you to suppliers in your country.

The only way to diagnose these types of problems is to get yourself a watt meter, they are not that expensive but worth there weight in gold for fault finding. http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/171035/gt-power-130a-watt-meter-and-power-analyser