gwhy

Thanks Betarambo for the shout out... Your plan sounds good to me, but I think once you go do a bigger wheel the power may not be quite enough from the standard motor/controller , but this is something you will need to try to know for sure. If you are going to use bicycle rims then 24" with 3" tyres are a comparable size with standard gas bike wheels/tyres. Drop me a pm If there is any questions that you would liked answered about the e-clutch, good luck and keep the board informed of progress :-).

you may get a bit more run time but really depends on the quality of the batteries, so as long as they will physically fit in place then yes they will be fine.

the motor bearings are not to bad to do. just remove both endcaps from the motor once you have the motor apart also check the brushes are in good condition and slide in and out of the mounts freely, I cant remember what size bearings the motors use but they are a very common size. The hardest part is putting it back together and getting the brushes back in. What you need to do is have some strong cotton to pull the brushes into the holders and hold them in place by bringing the cotton out and using some tape on the outside of the motor endcap to hold the cotton, once you have secured the 4 brushes fully into the holders then you lower that end cap back onto the shaft making sure that the brushes go over the commutator, once you are sure that the end cap/brushes have cleared the commutator slide the cotton out of the motor and this hopefully will release the brushes and then push them into the commutator then just do everything back up. Sounds harder than it is.

is the key switch in the off position when you are connecting the charger ?. is the key switch operational i.e when in the off position is it really off ? , do the batteries charge if you remove the relay ?

Drop me a PM, Im sure I can sort you out with something.. are you in the UK.?..

Just thinking about how many plugs/sockets you will need to be able to switch the meter over to 2 bikes and also use it on the charger to get the actual Ah needed to recharge battery to full .. I think it works out 4 pairs at least.. a pair on the meter a pair on each bike and a pair on the charger leads..

If your ordering a meter then get your self some plugs also, the 4mm shrouded types are pretty good and very common in the rc world.. get more plugs than you THINK you need as there is nothing more anyoning than being 1 plug short ( dont ask me how I know ) these http://www.hobbyking...10pcs_set_.html these are also a good plug and socket http://www.hobbyking...ag_GENUINE.html and these http://www.hobbyking...ag_GENUINE.html These do not always come in pairs so you need to make sure you buy the males and females. .. Yes I have some very old pictures of the bikes when they were in development.. I will try and dig them out.. Edit:

If you are in the uk then I would get one from giantshark.. Hobbyking do membership but try to get the items you order from the warehouse nearest where you are ( this can save a fair bit on postage and time..) You only need 1 meter if plugs are fitted the meter can be transferred from bike to bike very easy and also be used on your charger..

The only real way to find out what is going on is you need to buy yourself a watt meter, this will tell you exactly how many ah you are putting into the batterys when you are charging them and will also be able to give you the information about each bike i.e max current pulled , ah pulled, running voltage,min running voltage and max watts pulled this information will help find out what is going on . You can get a watt meter from Hobbyking http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10080__Turnigy_130A_Watt_Meter_and_Power_Analyzer.html giantshark http://www.giantshark.co.uk/power-130a-watt-meter-power-analyser-p-406644.html ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turnigy-130A-Watt-Meter-and-Power-Analyzer-in-stock-from-UK-with-fast-dispatch-/281106316902?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item41733dfe66 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-RC-130A-LCD-High-Precision-battery-Watt-Meter-Power-Analyzer-voltage-tester-/130832402277?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1e76380765

sorry mate i only just seen this post... the clutch setup works very well and I would not go back to throttle only. I didnt get on very well at all with the magura pot throttle and any pot will wear and generate noise so I opteded for a hall sensor setup that is 100% better

yes riding a electric is a whole new ball game but just as fun, Im still not convinced about the mechanical clutch , I think I need to test ride a 5.7 as the setup on my bike works very similar to if it had a mechanical clutch even down to holding the bike still with the clutch lever on a hill

I dont use off the shelf e-throttle anymore as I have never found a reliable/consistent one so I now use a regular trials cable throttle with a interface to move magnets either side of a hall sensor, this picture do not have the mags or the hall sensor installed and this was a prototype so now its a bit neater,slimmer and fits nice into a very small box inline with the cable.

The oset is looking very sweet.. did you check out the gng kit in use on that other forum ?

I think the oset chargers are cc/cv but im not totally sure about that, its the cc/cv chargers are the best types. it maybe that your motorcycle battery charger conforms to this format if it is a good quality charger.

sla should not really be charge using a box standard lead acid battery charger ( car battery charger) as these chargers can be very primitive, having said that some people do , as long as the charge current is not excessive i.e above 1 or 2 amps . I would recommend getting a nice all round charger, one that does most of the different chemistries, by getting a decent charger this should save some money in the long run and it will be less likely to damage the new batteries.

Looks like you scored :-), dont forget to make sure that the battery's are of equal voltage before you parallel them up.. and also go careful when fitting the plugs onto the batterys its to easy to let the 2 wires touch each other and before you know it you have ruined a battery or maybe even worst burnt your self. I dont know when Im up your way again otherwise I would have popped in to help wire them up ( and had a cuppa :-) ).

with my chargers I just set them to charge at the max rate (5A) and the charger will only charge at the rate that it can do for the amount of cells which for 6s is 2.2A if I connected a 3s it will charge at around 4.5A.. You can just leave it on the highest current setting ( will not be any problem with the small chargers ) you can charge lipos faster than 1c ( which is what you have been doing by setting your charger current for different capacity batterys ) .all this will mean that the time to recharge will faster but higher capacity batterys will take longer to charge .. i.e if you had a 5ah battery and the charger can only do 5A then that battery will take 1 hour to charge but if you wanted to charge a 15ah battery this will take 3x longer to charge on the same charger.

it will just take longer to charge so you you will need to set the max ah charge safety limit to 12ah and set the safety timer for around 200mins, the charge rate for 5s with a 50w charger will be around 2.8A max so this will means that a total charge for flat should take around 4hours for 12ah ( but it will be more like 3-3.5hours) edit: your 3s can charge at a max of 4.5A with a 50W charger ( the higher the wattage charger the faster the batterys can be charged )

yes you wil need a 1 into 3 ideally but hk do not do a off the self lead so you could get a 1 into 6 and tape up the unused balance plugs http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27074__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_5S_250mm_6xJST_XH_.html Yes your charges will do the job, so you are going to have 3X 5s 4000mah battery's connected parallel and treat this as 1X12000mah battery ? then series 2 of these together to make up the 36v

deans connectors are ok and will work but they are not the best connector for the environment on a bike , they are a little bit small. I use a combination of 4mm shrouded plugs and 6mm shrouded plugs. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html I use these to make adaptors for the standard 4mm connectors that come with the batterys but all my main connectors are these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20353__HXT_6mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html on HK you can buy ready made up adaptors that use 10awg wire and xt90 plugs and sockets which is more than enough for the small osets ( I use 8awg wire for my bikes ) parallel adaptors http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25662__XT90_Battery_Harness_10AWG_for_2_Packs_in_Parallel.html serial adaptors http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25661__XT90_Battery_Harness_10AWG_for_2_Packs_in_Series.html you would need to change the plugs on the battery's to these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=24709 and you would also need to fit a plug to match for your charging leads http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24708__Nylon_XT90_Connectors_Male_5pcs_bag_.html I don't know what chargers you have at the moment but if they can charge upto 6s then these will be fine you can use them for parallel charging I use 2 of these for my basic charging requirments http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories.html total charging time for a 10Ah battery using the 2 chargers is around 3 hours. yes they need a psu to power them but these can be got for around 6 quid each from fleabay something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15V-5A-FOR-TOSHIBA-TECRA-M5-M6-M7-M8-A1-A2-A3-A4-A5-A8-A9-AC-ADAPTER-CHARGER-PSU-/160873838084?pt=UK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_PowerSupplies&hash=item2574d3f604 but dont forget to also get a power lead !. once you have paralleled you batterys using the parallel adaptor these can remain connected and treated as 1 battery and you charge this battery through the parallel adaptor, you can also get a parallel adaptor for the balance taps http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27079__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_5S_250mm_2xJST_XH_.html

Thanks for the kind words. The more Ah's you get the longer running time the bike will have, a 8000mAh (8Ah) 10s (5s + 5s)lipo will prob last as long as a 10Ah sla and a 16000mAh (16Ah) lipo will last 2x as long as the 8000mAh (8Ah) lipo.

15c will be fine and there will not be any difference in use on the oset so if you can get free lipos to play with then all is good , yes you can put 3x 5s 4000mah lipos in parallel to make a 5s 12000mah battery then put 2 of these in seris to make the 10s ( 36) 12000mah battery then you will be good to go. also remember that you can not really mix different battery's if they have different capacity's ( ah's) or if you do then always use the lowest capacity battery as the maximum size of any other battery' capacity, hope this make sense

you can use as low as 15c rate for the osets but i think the price diffence is not even worth mentioning between 15 and 20c so I would go for 20c as a minimum. if you went for 4000mah then this will make up a total 8000mah battery and most people like to run a minimum of 10000mah so yes you will need more 4000mah batterys. the more mAh overhead you have the better it will be for the life of the batterys e.g a 15ah battery will have more charge cycles than a 10ah battery when use on the oset lipos should be discharged down to around 20% of there total capacity for maximum charge cycles so even the initial cost is a little bit more it can actually be more cost efficient in the long run,