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I over come this problem with my powerfull e-bikes ( they are not osets ) by making a throttle interface that allows the programming of the throttle resolution at different points with in its travel( throttle mapping ) so there is no delay introduced , this works very well as it was a big issue for very slow riding control, the more powerfull the bike the more of a problem it becomes. There are quite a few controllers out there that have soft start options ( delay in throttle ) but how well these work will depend on the controller design.

I just read through this post and did not know that the kelly controller was only

If you have 25v going into the controller and no voltage ot lights at the throttle then this do indicate that the controller is at fault, Yes it is probably hot glue, I use hot glue all the time to seal wires in plugs to help keep the water and dirt out its good stuff until you need to get it out again . Hope the new controller does the trick.

You dont need a kelly controller to fix this problem, but you do need to know what is causing the problem before you can fix it. Is the snatchy throttle only at the very start of the throttle travel i.e when pulling away or for example if your riding at 1/4 throttle and then twist some more do it still snatch or is it more controllable from 1/4 throttle up ?. I expect the kelly control has a soft start built into it which do smooth out the throttle from a stand still but it will introduce a delay in the throttle in doing so which is also not very good trials. I would fit a magura pot throttle first, Hall throttles are ok but they are not consistant.

Ok so its looks like a 5 wire throttle and from your pics it look like the three wire plug, red and black are the +5v and blue is the throttle signal ( 0-5v dependent on throttle position) and the two wire plug is the battery monitor orange and black ? that will be 25v ( I think ) you can measure these at the throttle as you have it apart. Did you measure the supply voltage ( 25v ) at the controller, bypassing the relay and keyswitch? and was it 25v ? .

On picture 5 that you posted ( where you showed you measured the voltage ) on the plug where you connected the black prob to do you get 25v if you put the red prob on the red wire at that same plug ?. this will test the relay,and keyswitch and nearlly all the wiring so you should have +25v at that plug ( the one that goes into the controller ). the throttle can be tested if you can get to the wires that go to the controller ( at the throttle plug) , there should be a thin red and black wire ( going to the throttle ) these wires should have around +5v on them, if the throttle has 4 wires then one of the other wires will read 0v but as you twist the throttle ( if its working ) the voltage should rise upto around +5v , the other wire ( if it has 4 wires ) will have a fixed voltage that will light the lights on the throttle body.

The on/off switch do not need to carry much current so a smaller (much cheaper ) toggle switch could be used, I suspect that the fact that there is no back emf diode fitted to the relay coil is what kills the original keyswitch.

is the 0 or 25v on the thin wires at the relay? if yes then the keyswitch is ok this means the relay is not switching the thick red wires, you can test by just by connecting the 2 thick red wires together at the relay this should bring the bike to life ( put the keyswitch to the on position ) . edit: the reason I ask if the 25v is on the thin wires at the relay is this voltage is to high for the relay cos from your pictures it is rated at 14vdc and 25v will not do it to good over long periods.

yes the keyswitch can replaced with the mc kill switch. do you get the 12v or so when the keyswitch is on to the thin red and black wires on the relay? if you do then its a fair bet it is the relay at fault if you dont get the 12v on the thin wires then its the keyswitch ( or wiring ) at fault.

I have just looked at the pics: here are a couple of things you can test. with your meter on dc volts measure the voltage on the thin red and black wires at the relay, with the keyswitch on and battery's connected you should read around 12v on these wires. If you have no voltage at these points when all switched on then check the wiring to and from the keyswitch and also the keyswich. To check the keyswitch: disconnect the battery and put your meter on ohms there should be a red wire into and a red wire ( edit: looks like if the black wire is switched from the keyswitch so it maybe black wires in and out of key switch) out of the keyswitch put the meter probes one on each of these red wires and you should get 0 ohms with the switch on and a open circuit with the switch off. If the switch do not show 0 ohms then its more than likely that the switch has gone. If the keyswitch is working ok then you will have 12v at the relay. the thick red wires on the relay needs to be joined together to make the bike work so if you have 12v at the relay then the relay should click, switching the contacts which connects the 2 thick red wires together. To Test relay operation put meter back to dc volts re-connect the battery and connect black meter probe to the black wire on battery and the red probe on thick red wire from relay ( one of the thick red wires on the relay will have 25v all the time the other thick wire will have 0v when keyswitch is off and 25v when keyswitch is on ) if there is no switched 25v on the relay then the relay will need replacing.

If the relay or the keyswitch was not working then I dont think you will get the 25v voltage going into the controller. And i dont know for sure, but if the limiting pot was faulty then I assum that the light will still come on. Assuming he has got the 25v ( going into the controller ) with it all connected and the bike swithched on but no lights on ( is there a battery indicator light on the throttle housing ? ), if there is no light and you have 25v going into the controller then this could indicate that the problem could be the throttle connection (or the throttle itself) to the controller, can you post a pic of the controller connections with it all wired up just incase Im over looking something. Some E-bike controllers require 2 different voltages into the controller for it to work.

connect all the battery's as they should be in the bike then unplug the thick red and black wires from the controller ( where the battery plugs in ) then with your meter on dc volts measure the total voltage coming out of the connector to the controller ( from the battery's ) , you dont say what voltage the bike is if its a 36v bike you should have a total voltage of around 38v if its a 24v bike then it should be around 25.5v. be careful doing this as not to short out the red and black leads. If you dont have these voltages present or they are much lower then check all connectors from the battery to the controller and also the fuse connection. If the voltage is there then re-connect the battery to the controller and with your meter still on dc volts find a convenient spot to connect the red and black leads of the meter to the battery red and black wires on the bike turn the bike on, the voltage should not drop when just plugged into the controller ( without no throttle ) . let us know what results you get.

First thing is put your voltmeter onto dc volts 0-20v ( if this is the type it is ), then put red meter lead onto the + of one of the battery's and the black meter lead onto the - of the battery the meter should diplay a voltage of around 12.8-13.2v for a charged battery , start with that and report back what voltages are ( if any )

The lvc that I use is powered from the controller's 5v supply and measures the total battery voltage ( my battery is 48v ... not used on a oset ) but with a few additional components could be a stand alone device that can be plugged directly into the battery pack. at the moment the lvc is not adjustable for different voltage battery packs ( the voltage settings are hard coded into the chip that I use but could be re-coded easy enough for different lvc and different battery voltages) I could re-write the code to make it adjustable for different battery packs but this will take a bit of time to test and sort out ( and only really worth doing if there is enough interest for a universal lvc) . The chip that I use is a picaxe08M and a handfull of other small components. my device measures about 30mm x15mm x 15mm and contains 2 leds and one thin multicore wire (4 wires) that connects to the the controller, 2 wires are to power the lvc a wire to monitor the battery pack and a wire to disable the controller. I will take some pics today and try and post them up some where.

If there is enough interest I could do a limited run of the lvc that I use ( or just post up the circuit and code for people to build there own), I dont know the configuration of the controllers that oset use so it will not shut down the controller ( do they have a e-brake connection on the oset controllers ? ) but it could have a alarm, at the moment the one that I use there are 2 leds for a visual indication of SOC of the battery, steady green , flashing green, steady red and flashing red ( 4 levels of monitoring )if flashing red continues to flashes for more than 5sec then the lvc shuts down the controller.

Im not sure which LVC device referring to but if its reading the total voltage from the pack these are only really any good for small battery packs and will not really protect the battery's, if you really want to use belt and braces then you really need to monitor at cell level through the balance taps, there are cheap devices that can do this but do not shut the battery down if there is a problem it will only sound a alarm if any one of the cells drops below a pre-set voltage. I dont use cell monitoring myself on my packs as I think connecting and dis-connecting the devices to the tiny balance leads is even more of a hazard, but I did built myself a very accurate digital battery monitor ( total voltage of pack ) that shuts my controller down when my battery's get to a pre-set voltage (around 39v ) and any cells that are going bad will show up when balance/charging them, I also check periodically the state of each cell with in the pack every 3 or 4 charges. So far I have had no problems using lipo packs I have 6 48v lipo batterys that I have been using on e-bikes for over 2 years.

It would depend on how big the loops are to whether one charge will make it though a complete trial. I cant speak for scorpa and how much they will charge for a additional battery pack but the cost of high quality cells are quite expensive and at the current prices ( but the prices are going down nearly on a monthly basis ) a 48v 25Ah battery pack would be around £500 if you made one up yourself. edit : Looking at the zero motorcycles web site and the price of there ( last years ) battery with charger is $2,999 ( £2,000 ), but I know that this years 2012 release of there new motorcycle have a range of 114 miles between charges and a top speed of 80mph so they have obviously got some better battery's for the 2012 lineup. The battery used on the zero is a bigger capacity ( nearly double ) that is used on the scorpa so a similar battery and charger should be around £1200 ( at zero motorcycle prices )

The mud will be a factor ( power zapping ) I am going to try and get some real figures from one of my bikes while riding in mud ( I havent really took any of my bikes out into real muddy conditions yet ( I dont want to get them dirty )

Get a different chemistry battery, SLA's are not the best things in the world and are very heavy. for example lipo will be 3x the power density and 3x lighter or lifefo4 will be around 3x the desity and about 2.5x lighter than for the same physical size of SLA'a

The emissions will be only of about 20% ( and this includes re-charging ) of what is produced to ship,re-fine, ship again, store, and distribute petrol the battery's can be recycled ( dependent on chemistry ), I would say 3years is not that short of life expectancy from a good set of cells that are being charged and discharged on a day basis. If you took this bike to the local bmx/skate park and started to ride, there will be a lot of positive interest from prospective new riders so it will have a lot more than zero appeal. Also petrol engines are only about 45-65% efficient ( on a good day ), electric motors are more around 90% efficient. When electric bikes start to compete directly with gas bikes and start winning ( which is more than possible and have happened ) maybe attitudes will change.

Its a shame that some people cant see the bigger picture and the big advantages that electric versions of trials bikes will offer. The new 2012 zero's are a far cry from any other version (older) of there bikes. Range will/can only get better, battery prices can only come down as better/new chemistry's come along, and bike weight's will get much lighter. The stumpy clutch lever ( from what I have read ) is a electronic version of a clutch .

It has a 25Ah battery so a rough guestimate on range would be riding road might be around 25-30miles , light trails (off road )around 15-20miles more demanding off road trails 10-15miles and one section straight into another maybe around 5 miles (and this can only get better as battery tec advances), I don't think the range limit will be to bad, I dont know how this would stack up in the Scottish tho. Water should not be any problem for it, as its low voltage.

Will it sell, and how much will it be ?. more info more info

drop me a PM.

Interesting that you should say about not being able to ride in more places. I have be talking to one of my local councillors about various e-bike related stuff that I met while I was promoting a e-bmx of mine at a open day at a local bmx race track that was promoting urban bike sports i.e cycletrials, bmx racing and ramp riding, He said he could not foresee any problems using ebikes at these facilities and actually was very interested in some of the development work I have been doing as regards e-bikes and asked to come around my workshop to see for himself what I have been upto and he was very positive about the whole thing and now feels more informed about the tec. I go out regularly, local woods (mountain bikes are allowed) and up the local park (400 yards away ) on one of my e-bikes and never had any negative issues with anyone. So I hope you are wrong but it may mean that e-bikes can only ride where bmx tracks are but there are plently of urban bmx tracks around, there are 2 within 3 miles from me .