gwhy

yes a badly isolated transformer will cause these symptoms only on a very primitive charger but as far as I know the oset chargers are switch mode so therefore should be isolated anyway.. but the whole bikes wiring should be isolated there is no common on the frame so it will also have to have a wiring fault .. its true and unlikely to be static.. as nearly all times it is a single crack, but not always .

I personally think it may be just static or something that feels like passing current. You would have to have a wiring fault on the bike plus a charger fault plus the right conditions for you to pass the current for it to be a problem. If you want piece of mind then get a volt meter and measure AC and DC volts from the footrest down to ground.

just means be around when charging.. i.e dont go out for a few hours whist charging ..

yes i will do, but it will not be for a hour or 2 I need to be somewhere :-).

the big block is a good choice ... but I dont think it will fit without some major modding.. standard motor length is about the same but the diameter is only approx 110mm and I think if you go for the standard BHT motor it will not pack such a punch as the standard oset motor/controller.

have you got a like to the motor you wish to fit ?.. or the dims and I could tell you if it will or not or if it will be worth it.

the fact that the charge/balance did not finished should have been the first warning sign and should have been investigated the second was a puffy cell but I am glad you caught it in time as you say could have been a lot worst. when you compressed the pack was it on the sides of the cells or where the cells sandwiched .. if it was on the sides then you may have shorted "internally" the puffy cell.. but I think its one of those that you will never really get to the bottom as to why it popped. This is why I say always remove the batterys for the bike when not in use or charging, always charge and store in a fire safe area and never leave unattended.. and the way this can happen to any chemistry not just lipo... If you had a bms on the pack you would not have even know there was a problem until it went poof.... there would have been no warning signs.

depending what web site you read the minimum safe lowest voltage of a lipo is anywhere between 2.75v and 3.2v but I never go below 3.4 per cell for lipo this give a good error margin should any cells discharge at a different rates.. So if you have 10 cells then that a absolute min discharge of 10 x 3.4= 34 volts.. Ideally you should hardwire your 2 banks of 5 cells together including the balance wires.. so you are dealling with just 2x 5s2p complete battery's, with just one balance plug and one main discharge plug for each set of 5s2p. edit: and also move the watt meter just in case it should get damaged if the bike gets dropped. edit again.. just realised you have a 10s3p setup so 2x 5s3p complete batterys edit: yet again just correct a error on my min voltage per cell from 3.2v to 3.4v

Balance charge the individual batteries first before you P any together, this makes sure that the battery's are in good condition and that all the cell within the battery's are ok. charge up a value of 1c i.e if each bank of 3 batterys are a total of 15ah then 15A charge would be 1c and for 1 battery ( 5ah ) the charge rate should be no more than 5A. once you have your 2 banks of 3 batterys then charge each bank at the max that the charger will do which will be 10A which will be fine for a 15ah battery. discharge amps can be 3A but this is only used if you are cycling your batterys or you want to discharge them. cutoff capacity should be the max ah of the battery that you are charging i.e if its a 15ah battery then set it to 15ah , but I recommend set it to 13-14ah to be on the safe side but if your charger will only go upto 10ah then this will have to do . At least it will be extra safe and also extend the life of the batterys low cutoff voltage should be set to around 12v .. this should not really come into play as you have a internal psu on the chargers. cut off time is th eamount of time that the charger will charge the batterys .. i.e if you have a 15ah battery charging @ 10a thien this will be a total time of around 1.5h charge (90mins) but dont forget to add the balance time of around a extra 30mins so i would set for 120mins if charging at 10ah. the other setting you dont really need to worry about and you can just leave them on the default values if you have a temp sensor with your chargers then you can also set the max temp of around 50-60 and you place the temp sensor on the battery when charging, this will turn the charger off if the temp goes above the set temp when the charger beeps to say that its completed charging always look at the screen to make sure it have finished completely and that it have not stopped charging for any other reason i.e time,temp,capacity,low voltage

the batteries can deliver the necessary current so no need for super caps.. but can the controller or bms. As i have said before you don't need a mechanical clutch as long as the controller/bms is able to deliver the current need in a controlled manner ( i.e not on/ off but totally variable control )

that's a shame... did he say he was going to get more ?.. other options are a cycle analyst , new controller, the pico device , these are off the shelf but come in quite expensive. There are other options but will involve making your own small electronic circuit up.

by using 24" bicycle wheels and tyres makes the whole bike lighter so makes it easier on the motor/controller and batteries, and also helps keep the price down.. the wheel size is comparable to a full size bike but the wheel base looks slightly smaller than a full size bike

24" inch wheels with a 3" tyre are about the same size ( diameter ) as a full size trials bike rear wheel and a 2" tyre on a 24" wheel is the same diameter as a front full size trials bike wheel ,, well pretty close.

there are a few things that need to be done to make it compatible with the oset controller but these are not major and very easy to carry out.. when you get it give me a shout and I can tell you what you need to do to make it work.. the throttle input and throttle output plug and sockets on the tamer are the opposite to the oset ( they may even be totally different depending on what throttle plug you have on the oset ) so these will need swapping ( just a bit of heat shrink and solder on the wires ) and a small resistor ( 10k ) needs to be added to the throttle output between the signal wire and the black wire ..

Hi Bowser, The guys e-mail address is at the bottom of the instructions ( attached ) Throttle Tamer Instructions V1.0 (2).pdf But I don't think he is making them but he may have some left from the last batch so worth asking.. they are not voltage specific as they just fit between the throttle plug and controller, just like the pico ( but cheaper ) . edit: Just done searching around and found the throttle tamer are now on a website for sell and currently has 11 in stock. http://www.greyborgusa.com/product/throttle-tamer/

The CA and my device works inline with the original controller so the controller is still required. The controllers on HK are all for brushless motors and will not work under any circumstances with a brushed motor. Check your messages (PM sent)

Hi Scott, As far as i know there is no such device off the shelf, the nearest thing would be a CA ( cycle analyst ) but it is expensive and has a lot more functions that you will prob ever use ( but it will also act as a throttle interface to make custom throttle ramps and mods ) , but I dont think in reduces power at lv , its more of a cut off ( may be worth sending grintect a email to ask exacly how the lv cutout works ). Sometime this week I will play around with 2 of the very cheap lipo alarms to see if they can be put in series to cover the 36 or 48v and still emitted the very loud alarm when these threshholds are exceeded .. ( as the alarms are quite loud this should be enough incentive to stop riding :-) ). I have developed a device that can reduce the power @ lv as a 3 stage device .. 1: visulal display 2: reduction in power ( just like flat sla's ) 3: hardcut off at which voltage can be set to what ever you want, the device also allow different throttle maps and modes, it has a built in watt meter, amp meter and voltmeter that also records max/min values. it also allow to set max speed and max/min power it also supports a temp gauge for motor, battery or controller. The bad news is It also works out quite expensive as they are hand made to order and they do not look like a off the shelf commercial product , so I dont tend to offer them for sell only to friends that know me and know what the device does and fully understands what its capable of.

try this.. i have not shown the balance taps as it will start to get messy and will look even more complicated than it really is.

yes this does away with having to have the separate psu but it will require the pack being split and then P the 3 lifepo4 batterys into the one charger, it will work but with all the negative aspects on charging a large battery that has to be split. its only a 50w charger so if you have 3 lifepo4 batterys and each battery is 8.4ah the when all plugging into the charger (P) then the total capacity becomes 25.2ah each battery is 4s so a charging voltage of 14.6v so a max charge rate of 3.42A , 25.2ah / 3.42A= 7.3 hours to charge + balancing time so maybe looking at 9 hours charge time.. 9 hours maybe fine but you now also have to think of the safety side of things . when are you going to start charging the battery as it should not be charge overnight in the house ( just in case the worst happens ) ( should not really charge these high density batterys in the house at anytime ), ideally it should not be left unattended whilst charging and it should always be charged in a fire safe area. 9 hours is a long time to be keeping a eye on the batterys. ... if you bought 3 of those chargers then that would be a much better solution, 1 charger per battery as this will reduce a lot of the risks and wear and tear on connections and also reduce the charge time down to about 3hours. or 2 chargers and 2x 5s2p lipo batterys will be even cheaper... which is what I originally said 2x 6s 50w charger @£12 each and 2x laptop psu's @ £7 each the chargers will work out cheaper than 2x imax ac chargers.

what was the charger ? and is that just using a parrallel adaptor board into the charger .. if using the lifepo4 batterys then it would be very tricky soldering xt60 to the main discharge leads as they are 8awg ( i think ) even if they are 10awg it will still be a tricky job but doable.. i would go for xt90 as the main discharge plug and socket or even 6mm bullets .. xt60's are physically quite small to work with

you can get the lifepo4 batters for HK in 4s2p configuration and these are 8400mah so you will need 3 of them to make up a 36v 8.4ah battery

if I were you I would just buy a very basic setup initially 2x cheap 50w chargers @£12 each 2x laptop psu @£7 each 4x 5s1p 5000mah lipos @ £28 each and maybe a extra £20 on other bits and pieces ( adaptors, lv alarms )to wire it all and I would recommend also getting a cell checker at the very least but also another very useful tool is a watt meter @ £10 so you can get your head around what needs to be done with out spending to much money.. if you get it wrong you can right off a set of batterys in the space of hours and its better to loose 4 battery's in one hit than 6 ( for a 15ah battery) :-) from a cost point of view (4 lipo batterys would be the minimum required for a 10ah 36v battery )

you already run your sla's in series on the bike ( 3 sla's in series = 36v ) so basically you will be replacing the 3 sla's with 2 (5s) lipo or with 3 (4s) lifepo4's.. this is why working with lifepo4's make it a little easier to under stand as they can be looked at as a direct voltage replacement for sla's but this is the easy part.. it all starts getting complicated with the charging .

the 2 chargers you linked to look ok... the second one 1x200W (built in psu) is only a single charger so to charge all the cells in one go you would have to split the pack and P the 2 packs together .. high risk.. lot a room for error and problems.. wear and tear on all plug/sockets the first charger ( 2x 200W ) you will still have to split the pack but you dont have to P the 2 goups together to charge all cells at once ( each group has its own charger).. less room for error and problems but still a lot of ware and tear on all plugs and sockets. a 200 or 300w 10s charger means no splitting packs.. so even less room for errors and problems also a lot less wear and tear on plugs and sockets

with the 10s 300w charger you will be charging a complete battery (36v) that is configured as a 10s3p setup ( identical to how it will be running on the bike ) the 2x 6s 200w charger you will have to split the battery down to 5s3p for each charger and the same with the 2x6s 150w chargers 5s3p ( this is assuming each battery is 5cells and 5ah (5s1p) and you require 15ah i.e 5s3p all the P cells within a battery ( it dont matter if is a 10s3p or 5s3p ) get balance to the same final cell voltage ( lipo =4.2v per cell and lifepo4=3.65v per cell ) if you took your 5s3p battery group and P that with another 5s3p group than that now becomes a 5s6p group and this is what you will need to do when using only 1 x 6cell charger to charge all the cells. the nearer 18v psu will just mean that the psu dont have to supply quite as much current to produce the final output wattage.. its all about watts if it was a 11v psu then it will need to supply around 9A for 100w but if it is 18v then it will only need to supply 5.5A for 100w so as long as it gets to the same wattage there is no difference.