fergie

My ty clutch is at the end of adjustment at the lever. I decided to try to adjust the screw behind the engine cover. took off the skid plate, removed engine cover. screwed adjuster at lever all the way in. loosened lock nut on adj. screw. I was not sure which way to turn it. I screwed it in and out and noticed the actuating arm on the bottom of the engine moving up and down. I kind of expected it to move front to back. It did not seem to have any effect on my clutch adjustment. The cluth still does nothing. Do I need to replace the plates? also I now cannot seem to screw the adj. screw on the engine all the way in . the head was kinda stripped to start with and the screw driver does not seem to have enough bite.

If your knees are bad and you are not going to trial it. I would put the lights back on and use it as a trail bike. Or you could just leave them off and put them back on when you sell.

thanks feetupfun I'll give that a shot.

77 ty250. stock mikuni carb. Where do i measure the float level from? Do I measure from the float bowl with the gasket in place?

white vinigar works well for cleaning rust out of tanks

Thanks

The spacer should be 3/16" thick. If you put a stock dished sprocket on a flat surface and measure the distance from the outside edge, to the flat surface, I believe it comes to 3/16" if my memory serves me. I could be wrong though, as it has been about 10 yrs. since I last did one.

I beleive it is actually closer to 3/16"

I am looking to replace the fuel supply line on my 76 250. Can anyone tell me what size to buy? If you know the other sizes for the smaller vent lines on the carb ,that would be helpfull as well. Cheers, Fergie.

I use motul synthetic @ 40:1. which is on the safe side but seems to work well for me. 15w fork oil. Atf works in a pinch for fork oil as well.

One thing you should know about wiseco's is that you need to let the bike warm up properly before riding. They also seem to rattle alot when they are cold.

Ok, now I really need some help. I went ahead and pulled the autolube pump. When I pulled the clutch side cover off to disconnect the shaft. Two shims fell on the garage floor. They are quite large, maybe 29mm outside diameter and 25mm inside(they look like a big washers). As far as I can tell, the only place they could possibly go would be on the kickstart shaft. my shop manual says "note the location of the kickaxle shim". However, in the diagram it does not list or show a kickaxle shim. Also, why would I have two of them? Any Ideas?

yeah close call for sure. I was just going to put staight fuel in the tank and thought it would be a good idea to check the pump. Turned out it was a great idea!

Ok, so I took the bike out for the first time. I ended up premixing the oil/fuel 40:1 also had the autolube going just to be on the safe side. Suprisingly the bike ran great. Lots of power, idled perfect,with just a light amount of smoke from the tailpipe. I might just keep everything the way it is. i would have thought with the extra lube it would have smoked like crazy and fouled plugs. Not so much.

Thanks again for all the tips. Fergie

Is it ok to just disconnect the cable and mix up a fresh batch of 40:1 and put it in the tank?

I want to take the bike for a ride before I do the pump removal. So i decided to pull the pump cover off to make sure the cable is actuating the pump. To my suprise the cable was just lying there not hooked up at all. I dont know if it came off all by itself or the po unhooked it intentionally. I hooked the cable back up and the bike seems to run good I'm not sure if the tank has mixed gas or straight gas in it. The lines from the tank to the pump to the carb seemed to be all connected. I bought the bike from a shop(on consignment)and the shop owner is not sure either. I guess having the pump hooked up as well as premix wont hurt anything other than maybe fouling the plug. Anyway, Im going riding tomorrow and I dont know whether to fill it up with mixed gas or straight gas. Any thoughts?

Thanks feetupfun that makes everything clear. Cheers, fergie

The clutch cover? I thought that was on the other side. I realize I have to fit a cover over the pump hole after removal. My quesstion is does the shaft come out with the pump or do I need to romove the case which the pump bolts to to remove the shaft?

Ok I guess I'm gonna do the swap. Q: when I unbolt the pump from the case does the pump shaft just slide out or do I need to take the cover off to get at it?

I picked up a fairly original U.S. model 76 ty250. It still has the autolube hooked up. I know alot of people disconnect them and premix fuel. what are the pros and cons of doing this. I know about saving weight and piece of mind in not worrying about the pump failing. But has anyone ever really seen one fail? Do you think the lubrication is better if pre mixed.

Thanks to a member here(steve) I have a copy coming in the mail. Cheers Steve

Still looking for a workshop manual and or parts list. The bike turned out to be a 76. Anyone?

I know oil threads are probably taboo but here goes anyway. Just wondering what brand of injector oil is best for a 74 ty250. Full syth or dino oil? Also should I get specific 2 stroke trans oil or is atf the way to go? thanks for any help. Fergie

Just bought what I think is a 74 ty250. (Havnt actually got it yet)Was wondering if there is a free downloadable ty250 manual like there is for the later ty250/350 mono's?