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TAKE THE FLYWHEEL OFF !!!!!!!!!!!!
TLTEL
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If you have'nt already, I would remove flywheel, check woodruff key. If it shears it can let flywheel move on crankshaft which will alter timing. it may be catching in right position sometimes to let it start then moves once running.
Had this happen to a moped years ago. (Garelli Tiger Cross).
If it's not the problem at least you can inspect, clean, or tighten up stator plate, also have a look at crank seal, you might see signs of leaking. In my experience its usually this side seal that fails as it runs dry.
Good luck.
TLTEL
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Swap it for a bike with the kicker on the RIGHT side.
Seriously , you could try a thicker cylinder base gasket or even two, that's what I did to my 350 gasser it just takes the edge off the kick, you still have to commit to it or it will kick you back.
I never noticed any loss in power.
TLTEL
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That standing on a ball looks more dangerous than riding the bike!!
TLTEL
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Hi, Are you sure it's not bent, as they are not usually a problem. I have a 95 jtr and I think they are the same, The bush inside the lever can wear and makes the lever a bit floppy. Maybe that just needs replacing.
TLTEL
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great pictures!
I especially like the green one.
TLTEL
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Have you had the flywheel off? Could be a sheared woodruff key!
TLTEL
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welcome..
Goodnight !!
TLTEL
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hi brenduro.
only engine work I have done is to play around with cylinder base gaskets to increase the squish clearance, it used to knock a lot when it got hot, its also smoothed out the power too.
still on original piston as far as I know.
My picture was taken at a particularly wet and muddy trial back in June.
TLTEL
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Welcome to the mad house. Hope you've been warned, this trialing game is addictive.
TLTEL
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Welcome mate. Trials is much safer fun than the R1...
TLTEL
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I like the old bikes, they seem more reliable.
Had this about three years now and use it regularly, it,s the 350 model and I love it. Bought it very cheap with no working brakes or kickstart.
Good luck with the Trialing.
TLTEL
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Hi ben , not sure if its coincidence but an add came up under your post for www.qualitybearingsonline.com there are other companies that you can try too. most bearings and seals can be matched to size or part numbers, there maybe a supplier near you if you want to get one off the shelf.
TLTEL
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Hi Tom, and welcome.
I did the same as you about five yours ago, rebuilt my own TL that I have owned since 1979.Did a few trials on it and I was hooked, You can just about make it out in my profile picture, taken at one of my first Trials.
Good luck.
TLTEL
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Hi.
Its a long time since I played mix and match with these engines but many years ago my mate and I both ran TL's and would try anything to keep them running, and since we had very little money quite often we would take parts off donor engines and rebuild them.
I think you can use the 100 head on the 125 engine the only difference if any would probably be the valve sizes and maybe the cam shaft timing.
The TL cam timing is different to a CB, XL etc so if poss use the camshaft from the 125, that's assuming It is a TL head.
There are different auto advance units too so check every thing before you swap them over.
just an aside but if I remember correctly the cam chains are different lengths on the one piece head, but this obviously will have been changed already.
Most problems on these engines were due to bad oil and not changing it often enough, and I have to admit I was guilty of that too when I was younger....
TLTEL
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As said above. your bearings are not fully in place, probably the same with gear box, or you have put a thrust washer in the wrong place.
I assume you are using a gasket in the joint.
TLTEL
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Looks good, what 's that vertical tube that looks like part of the exhaust for??
TLTEL
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looks good, but I don't know what it was supposed to look like, any before photos???
TLTEL
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Mung....Hey
So I'm not the only one that doesn't see the logic.
TLTEL
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Hi. You can do it by just removing the reservoir and putting the syringe on the pipe. I think your first target is to get fluid moving through the system one way or another.
The trick if you use a different pipe is to make sure you pre fill the reservoir pipe before refitting, the same goes for any of the hydraulic parts that you dismantle, it can get messy.
If you get air in the reservoir pipe it will naturally rise to the reservoir as it is not under pressure.
TLTEL
Yes the rod will come out with the pedal..
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It's always good to get a result without spending any money.
TLTEL
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Yes I do wear shoes to work, one day I might want to sell my feet, So don't want to damage them.
Balldilocks, Three rocks you say ??,don't think I have been to that venue.
Ok point taken we do ride in Mud, chalk and sand with lots of fallen trees down here.
TLTEL
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Hi Coop.
the kill switch just basically runs the cdi or coil to earth so shorts the circuit. try disconnecting and try for spark as sting says. some kill buttons are accesable once removed to check for something jambed inside. Spray with WD40 or similar might free it but best to get a new one.
If it is the switch and you want to start it to make sure you can make a temp kill wire with a crock clip or something on the end to stop the engine.
if its not the killy then I would check all connections and the other common fail point ,the main earth for your electrics , usually just above the radiator on the frame.
TLTEL
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