many thanks for getting back to me bikes not that old to be honest maybe 4 month old not lke its had much use but will have a look see whats happening with them
Maybe there has never been any grease in there, another thing to try is support the bike with front wheel off the ground and slacken off the pinch bolts, with wheel between your legs move handle bars from side to side slightly to centre the forks just in case something is stressed, Tighten up again but don't overtighten.
It is surprisingly harder once you have an observer standing there with a clip board, not to mention the small crowd of spectators that gather at the hardest section.
Bigbird2, If you are thinking of lowering compression that much, I think you really have made the wrong choice of machine, If it was that much of a good deal, sell it on and get a bike that suites your needs better.
have you actually ridden this bike yet, you may be worrying about a problem that doesn't exist.
If you are not in the trial to win trophies, you could start on the B route and if it really is too easy change to the A route on the next lap, just let the observer know what you are riding. I,ve seen newbys do that many times. also if they find it too hard they may drop a level.
The important bit is bike time and enjoy it.
I used to get really nervous at the start and would miss markers and make silly mistakes, but you get used to it.
Remove flywheel and stator plate,(tie it out of the way)
carefully screw in two small self tapping screws on opposite sides into old seal. (look at new seal to judge thickness)
Then pull on screws with pliers or grips, it should come out quite easily.
Clean seal housing, smear, housing, shaft and seal with oil,
Gently push seal in, you may need to use a pipe or socket (slightly smaller than outside dia of seal) as a drift and very gently tap with a mallet.
Reassemble bike and go.
Should only take about half an hour if you have every thing to hand.
Flywheel side is most likely to fail as it runs dry, but clutch side is just the same although you will have to drain the oil and remove crankshaft gear to get to it.
My experience with two stokes is limited to gas gas and derbi engines, not had any dealings with crazy back to front beta's but probably the same.
With the engine running, connect the thermoswitch wires together, the fan should come on. If not, fan or wiring is faulty. That's assuming you have power.
Hi Bigbird2, Just thought I would add my opinion, I have an old GasGas 350 and ride it regularly in competition, two to three times a month most of this year, It is so reliable and will always start first kick, hot or cold. (unless it's been upside down) When I bought it about three years ago it had a broken kickstart.
I fitted a new kicker and found it was almost impossible for me to kick normally without getting a massive kick back.
I fitted an extra base gasket, I think it was two 1mm ones but it was a while ago so can't be sure which raised the squish clearance just above the recommended clearance. It still runs fine and pulls like a train and starts brilliant. I know it alters the port timing a bit but there is so much power that I couldn't notice any difference, it did however make it smoother.
When I start it I always use my body weight, kind of stand on the kicker and thrust down and it doesn't kick back.
Three years on and the kickstart lever still looks like new and I have lost count of the times people have come up to me at a Trial and said, " I used to have one of those, kept breaking kickstarts"
If you have'nt already, I would remove flywheel, check woodruff key. If it shears it can let flywheel move on crankshaft which will alter timing. it may be catching in right position sometimes to let it start then moves once running.
Had this happen to a moped years ago. (Garelli Tiger Cross).
If it's not the problem at least you can inspect, clean, or tighten up stator plate, also have a look at crank seal, you might see signs of leaking. In my experience its usually this side seal that fails as it runs dry.
Swap it for a bike with the kicker on the RIGHT side.
Seriously , you could try a thicker cylinder base gasket or even two, that's what I did to my 350 gasser it just takes the edge off the kick, you still have to commit to it or it will kick you back.
Hi, Are you sure it's not bent, as they are not usually a problem. I have a 95 jtr and I think they are the same, The bush inside the lever can wear and makes the lever a bit floppy. Maybe that just needs replacing.
only engine work I have done is to play around with cylinder base gaskets to increase the squish clearance, it used to knock a lot when it got hot, its also smoothed out the power too.
still on original piston as far as I know.
My picture was taken at a particularly wet and muddy trial back in June.
2013 Sherco Front End
in Sherco
Posted
Maybe there has never been any grease in there, another thing to try is support the bike with front wheel off the ground and slacken off the pinch bolts, with wheel between your legs move handle bars from side to side slightly to centre the forks just in case something is stressed, Tighten up again but don't overtighten.
TLTEL