tltel

Hi ben , not sure if its coincidence but an add came up under your post for www.qualitybearingsonline.com there are other companies that you can try too. most bearings and seals can be matched to size or part numbers, there maybe a supplier near you if you want to get one off the shelf. TLTEL

Hi Tom, and welcome. I did the same as you about five yours ago, rebuilt my own TL that I have owned since 1979.Did a few trials on it and I was hooked, You can just about make it out in my profile picture, taken at one of my first Trials. Good luck. TLTEL

Hi. Its a long time since I played mix and match with these engines but many years ago my mate and I both ran TL's and would try anything to keep them running, and since we had very little money quite often we would take parts off donor engines and rebuild them. I think you can use the 100 head on the 125 engine the only difference if any would probably be the valve sizes and maybe the cam shaft timing. The TL cam timing is different to a CB, XL etc so if poss use the camshaft from the 125, that's assuming It is a TL head. There are different auto advance units too so check every thing before you swap them over. just an aside but if I remember correctly the cam chains are different lengths on the one piece head, but this obviously will have been changed already. Most problems on these engines were due to bad oil and not changing it often enough, and I have to admit I was guilty of that too when I was younger.... TLTEL

As said above. your bearings are not fully in place, probably the same with gear box, or you have put a thrust washer in the wrong place. I assume you are using a gasket in the joint. TLTEL

Looks good, what 's that vertical tube that looks like part of the exhaust for?? TLTEL

very impressive.!! TLTEL

looks good, but I don't know what it was supposed to look like, any before photos??? TLTEL

Mung....Hey So I'm not the only one that doesn't see the logic. TLTEL

Hi. You can do it by just removing the reservoir and putting the syringe on the pipe. I think your first target is to get fluid moving through the system one way or another. The trick if you use a different pipe is to make sure you pre fill the reservoir pipe before refitting, the same goes for any of the hydraulic parts that you dismantle, it can get messy. If you get air in the reservoir pipe it will naturally rise to the reservoir as it is not under pressure. TLTEL Yes the rod will come out with the pedal..

It's always good to get a result without spending any money. TLTEL

Yes I do wear shoes to work, one day I might want to sell my feet, So don't want to damage them. Balldilocks, Three rocks you say ??,don't think I have been to that venue. Ok point taken we do ride in Mud, chalk and sand with lots of fallen trees down here. TLTEL

Hi Coop. the kill switch just basically runs the cdi or coil to earth so shorts the circuit. try disconnecting and try for spark as sting says. some kill buttons are accesable once removed to check for something jambed inside. Spray with WD40 or similar might free it but best to get a new one. If it is the switch and you want to start it to make sure you can make a temp kill wire with a crock clip or something on the end to stop the engine. if its not the killy then I would check all connections and the other common fail point ,the main earth for your electrics , usually just above the radiator on the frame. TLTEL

Yes I know the Theory behind all the extra plastic, I like those top slider covers even less than your homemade ones. Surely they must make a noise when you are riding. In all my years of riding I have never damaged a fork leg other than bending them (on a TL125) . So what's the next project, Rhino bars? TLTEL

I have enjoyed your progress thread, I'm not a total party pooper! TLTEL

Plastic pipes on your forks?? Not for me! Never been a fan of plastic / carbon covers. You have a nice looking bike and you spoilt it. Its an off road bike its meant to be ridden off road and a few battle scars are to be expected. I have never seen the logic in buying something nice, covering it in plastic and protecting it so the next bloke that buys it can appreciate how it was supposed to look. Same goes for people that put seat covers in there new car. TLTEL

If it's dry enough so not to spoil the grass try fig 8's on that bank, include the steps too, you can have hours of fun. TLTEL

Did you fix it ?????? TLTEL

hi. I just meant free play, as you just mentioned. I Think I would remove the reservoir pipe from master cylinder and try pushing fluid through that way, maybe try with banjo and nipple on calliper loosened at first . I have bled them this way before. If you still cant push fluid through, its a strip down of the master cylinder, dirt or a broken seal blocking a hole. TLTEL

If you can't back bleed it from the nipple it usually means the hole in the nipple is blocked with dirt, (remove it and clean out with a piece of wire) or the pedal arm has no clearance at the master cylinder or the piston is stuck, jambed or spring is broken. I am surprised that a low fluid would cause brake to fail during one ride, there is not much fluid movement when pedal is pressed. I am thinking master cylinder failure... TLTEL

Get the guy in blue a pogo stick. TLTEL

I have seen quite a few Seeley forks for sale as people have upgraded them and I would think that the hubs or complete wheels are not too hard to find, but TL250 brake plates don't become available that often, or do you already have one/ TLTEL

OK, very nice..... Now go find some mud.. TLTEL

Welcome... Nice bike, are you going to ride it now you have finished it. TLTEL

I can't answer your question, but if you want to use forks with a leading axle, the standard TL brake plate won't work without modification, you would be better using a wheel or hub to match the forks. TLTEL

I think I will stick to my little push button till they make them compulsory. the type of section we get down here (kent) there are a lot of bushes and low branches that I thick would cause snagging problems. TLTEL