Yes I know the Theory behind all the extra plastic, I like those top slider covers even less than your homemade ones. Surely they must make a noise when you are riding.
In all my years of riding I have never damaged a fork leg other than bending them (on a TL125) .
Never been a fan of plastic / carbon covers. You have a nice looking bike and you spoilt it. Its an off road bike its meant to be ridden off road and a few battle scars are to be expected.
I have never seen the logic in buying something nice, covering it in plastic and protecting it so the next bloke that buys it can appreciate how it was supposed to look.
Same goes for people that put seat covers in there new car.
I Think I would remove the reservoir pipe from master cylinder and try pushing fluid through that way, maybe try with banjo and nipple on calliper loosened at first .
I have bled them this way before.
If you still cant push fluid through, its a strip down of the master cylinder, dirt or a broken seal blocking a hole.
If you can't back bleed it from the nipple it usually means the hole in the nipple is blocked with dirt, (remove it and clean out with a piece of wire) or the pedal arm has no clearance at the master cylinder or the piston is stuck, jambed or spring is broken.
I am surprised that a low fluid would cause brake to fail during one ride, there is not much fluid movement when pedal is pressed.
I have seen quite a few Seeley forks for sale as people have upgraded them and I would think that the hubs or complete wheels are not too hard to find, but
TL250 brake plates don't become available that often, or do you already have one/
I can't answer your question, but if you want to use forks with a leading axle, the standard TL brake plate won't work without modification, you would be better using a wheel or hub to match the forks.
I think I will stick to my little push button till they make them compulsory. the type of section we get down here (kent) there are a lot of bushes and low branches that I thick would cause snagging problems.
Just like to add, yes you do need to undo nipple and if you are going to drain all fluid you may as well remove the nipple and check that the small hole is not blocked with dirt before you inject it in to your clutch.
Once you have cleaned it, replace it, gently tighten, then undo about half a turn to enable fluid to be pushed into system. when its full tighten nipple up.
My 95 Gas Gas has the same 6 bolt sprocket. I currently have a 42 tooth that was listed for a Sherco, it was the only one on ebay at the time that would fit my bike. So getting one shouldn't be a problem.
My own experience, RAW sports top that I bought about 5 years ago is still in great condition and colour has not faded at all. Would definitely buy another , but don't need to.
About a year ago bought a pair of wulf pants and they seem to be very good quality and not over priced, I caught my thy on a sharp root about 6 weeks ago. no damage to pants, leg is still healing.
Hi I'm guessing here but as its an auto when its in gear there is some drag in the system before it starts driving, so tick over needs to be high or else it would stall when at rest but in gear.
Same as if you have a bike that has a dragging clutch (like my sons Gas gas) you have to have tick over high enough so it can cope with the drag when you stop moving but keep it in gear.
Clean air filter first as said above and keep it clean. What plug, gas/oil ratio and what 2stroke oil are you using?
FYI: if your airfilter is dirty, your engine cant suck through enough air and will compensate by trying to suck more gas out of your carb, causing it to run rich. Too much oil will also run rich and fowl plugs. Cr@py oil will also burn bad and fowl the plug.
I clean my filter every second ride (I ride abour 2 hour every day). I use Belray H1R oil at a 60:1 ratio (150ml to 10l gas). Plug im using is a NGK BP6ES (this will vary according to location and temp).
It sounds like you need to check out all your wiring and connectors and as Dan said grounds or earths. change the kill switch and if you don't need the lights, disconnect them too.
Not sure if Betas have a thermostat or a thermo switch as on my gasser, but if your fan was running before engine was hot, but not when it was hot it seems like that needs replacing too. (if you didn't need it, it wouldn't be there)
Check fan with an independent 12v supply, make sure it spins and keeps spinning.
If you stopped as soon as engine boiled up you should be ok.
The pinking could be caused by poor spark due to bad earthing of ignition system, so may go away once that's sorted.
Its worth checking squish clearance as a thicker base gasket may be required (can cause pinking if too tight). When you buy a used bike you never know whats been done to it in the past.
Does your bike rev freely? It does sound like a mixture issue, I have never used the Kiehin carb but is it possible that the choke jet is not shutting off?
If your plug is fouling that much it is probably time for a top end de-coke and clean out, exhaust too.
I have had pneumonia, one lung filling up with fluid/infection, bottom 1/3 full. It is not as much fun as it is advertised.
I now understand how people died from it before antibiotics and how immune compromised people still die from it today.
(scared me a tad bit)
Yep. had pneumonia too. (not related to trialing) not very pleasant had both lungs drained, and on immune suppressants because I had a kidney transplant 14 years ago.
I broke two ribs enduro riding when I got speared by a branch sticking out. Luckily i was wearing body armour otherwise I would still be hanging there.
I didn't go to the Doctors as I had done some research and knew they couldn't help. If most difficult getting in and out of the bath or bed. After 2 weeks it stopped clicking and 4 weeks or so felt better.
Good luck.
The clicking is sooo bad, when you turn over in bed and it clicks, then you can't breath and you have to make it click back again. ouch!
I was told to make sure I take deep breaths to expand my lungs so I didn't get a chest infection or pneumonia. (spelling?)
Hi. I am assuming that the 250 TLR is similar to the other small Honda singles as you are using CG clutch parts.
If you remove the clutch basket you can get at the business end of the selector shaft and the star on the end of the selector drum. Its worth inspecting these parts as they do wear and also I have known the bolt on the spring loaded arm that locates the selector star to come undone, this will cause erratic gear changing.
I would check in there before riding, as you don't want that little bolt coming out and getting mixed in with your gears.
Pistons should normally have same amount of travel and would normally compress flush to calliper body. Sounds like one piston is doing all the work. I would get a seal and piston kit, strip it out and rebuild.
It is not as much fun as it is advertised. 
Diy Fork Guards.
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Yes I know the Theory behind all the extra plastic, I like those top slider covers even less than your homemade ones. Surely they must make a noise when you are riding.
In all my years of riding I have never damaged a fork leg other than bending them (on a TL125) .
So what's the next project, Rhino bars?
TLTEL