tltel

How old is your son? Do you plan on riding trial competitions. If he is under 16 he will be restricted to a 125. For ACU events anyway. I think it might be 250 for twinshock. TLTEL

Are saying that you run the bike without fork springs??? Not heard of that before!! TLTEL

Only you know how much riding you have done in any given period. I personally don't change mine to a set time period but if I have ridden lot over a few months I will change it (ATF Dex3) Drain it in to a clean container and look at the oil, Its a good indicator of whats going on inside the engine. By that I mean water seal leakage or any bits of broken bearing or as I found in my sons bike bits off the clutch friction plates. It can save you a lot of money if you catch a problem early. TLTEL Can't say I notice any different feeling in gears or clutch,

My sons 94 jt125 clutch did the same. bought the complete clutch from gas gas uk, think it was close to £100 and that was a couple of years ago. TLTEL

I would be more worried about fluid leaking out of the car, if that's how you park it!! TLTEL

Just replace the thermo switch or sender (which ever one you have on your bike) If its faulty it might just stop working altogether next time out and boil up! TLTEL

Not keen on the colour either. TLTEL

And pockets full of white chocolate???

Yes got one on mine, its an original from the seventies. I am sure Sammy Miller Products still sell them. Not much chance of a photo at the moment as it is at the back of the garage and not easy to get to. TLTEL

Hi, I'm with 0007 here, bad fuel or bad fueling, or a faulty plug can cause heavy knocking, Too tight a squish will also make a horrible knock. could be a combination of one or two of these, obviously change the bearing, make sure you set your squish clearance (there is loads of info on this site ) clean carb, new plug, air filter, new fuel and check fuel flow. My bike always Knocks as its running out of fuel. TLTEL

Hi.. I wouldn't personally recommend riding without a kill switch. I would think that you can download a wiring diagram, just do a search. Those two wires joined together are a bit strange, Is your fan running all the time the engine is on? TLTEL

Hi Dougie Mines a Lager, cheers!! When you get started you won't be disappointed. I got great pleasure from teaching my son to ride, then the competitions (I was a newby too) and then watching him getting better and better, and then better than ME! Think he was 10 when he started. Enjoy!! TLTEL

Hi Check the simple things first. wire connections to coil, cdi etc and earth ground connection. make sure kill switch isn't shorting out or wire trapped or pinched. plug cap. hopefully you will find something loose or corroded. TLTEL

ok thanks. The thing with this bike is the exhaust is so quiet that any noise is loud in comparison... I am quite nervous about riding a twinshock again, it must be nearly 3 years since I rode it in a competition. Will let you Know how it goes. TLTEL

update if anyone is interested, I replaced the cam chain tensioner guide with a new one and rode it around the garden till it got hot and it sounded ok. so going to ride it at a trial this weekend, should be interesting it all feels so different to the gasser. TLTEL

Always nice to get an update and a happy ending at that !! TLTEL

Ben. good job you sorted it before it did more damage!! TLTEL

Give the lad a break. "Grow up" he is only thirteen so I am sure he will. Ben. Maybe you should think a bit before you start a post in frustration, there are some very sensitive people around here. Are you saying that you fixed the problem for £6 ?? TLTEL

Billyt. Good explanation and result. Not sure about starting your new bike with no oil in it but it was for a good cause. I have used ATF in my 95 gasser since i've had it (three years or more). Works good for me. Never seen inside my clutch yet TLTEL

Rollox. Thanks for the input, it does seem very slack and when I put pressure on crankshaft in an up and down motion I can see the cam chain moving. It is hard to tell if it is the bearing moving or slack within the bearing itself, or maybe I am twisting it slightly. I have recently had to replace a crank on my sons XR 125 and although this is the push rod engine the bottom end is very similar. The bearing on that engine was not tight but it was more snug than my one. Maybe I should replace the cam chain guide first before diving inside and see if that makes it a bit quieter. Thanks for the link, I have used them before for TL bits so will take a look. TLTEL

Thanks B40rt, I hoped there was something like that available, just need someone to come up with bearing numbers. I would like to get parts before I dismantle as I don't have a lot of workshop space available at the moment. TLTEL

Hi. I had a look at my TLR at the weekend, with the intention of checking the cam chain tension by removing flywheel and manually adjusting the chain. (as suggested by AndyM) The reason being that the engine has got noticeably noisier recently. I have owned the bike about three years and have changed the oil a few times even though I have only ridden it a hand full of times. What I found!! The chain tensioner (adjuster side) has a small split at the bottom that opens slightly when pressure is applied, so I removed it to identify for replacement. Does anyone know if this item is the same as any other model ??? I then had a look at the main bearing, wiped it with a rag on my finger and the whole bearing turned in the casing very easily. So what now? Is this a common fault with these engines? What is the solution? The internals look very clean, the bearing spins smoothly with no signs of previous over heating. Obviously if I am going to split the cases I will want to fit new bearings. Does anyone know the numbers so that I can source them from a local supplier? How easy is it to remove the sprocket from the crankshaft??? Is there some sort of bearing locktight available? I have split and put back together several TL and an XR engine so that bit doesn't bother me, but any input or answers to my questions will be appreciated. The worst bit is, the last time I rode it was the first time I really enjoyed it, now its broke!!! Thanks. TLTEL

Hi xeriotti. First off, I have nothing against these bikes, I ride a 95, 350 and my son has a 94, 125, but I think as you are used to stunt / trick riding you would be better off with the Beta if you can afford it. once you have bought this bike you will need to spend money on it, start with new tyres, brake over hall, suspension linkage (not cheap) probably wheel bearings and that's without tidying plastics etc Those front forks are not very good in my opinion, (same as my sons) and I think that unless you are good with the spanners you will end up spending a lot of money on it. But having said all that, it is still a capable bike and you will have fun on it if you decide to go for it! Just my opinion, TLTEL

Stunning Bike Joe, can't wait to see it finished. Andy m is there a common problem with the TLR cam chain adjuster, It does seem a bit vague compared to the one on the TL. I took mine out for a blast about three weeks ago, first time for about 18 months (yes it did have oil in it ) and now it does sound a bit noisy around the cam chain side. releasing the lock nut didn't make any difference. It had a new cam chain 2 years ago and hasn't been used much since then so will try it manually. Here's a pic, I have re-covered the seat since this was taken. TLTEL