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tltel

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Posts posted by tltel
 
 
  1. ok thanks. The thing with this bike is the exhaust is so quiet that any noise is loud in comparison... I am quite nervous about riding a twinshock again, it must be nearly 3 years since I rode it in a competition.

    Will let you Know how it goes.

    TLTEL

  2. update if anyone is interested, I replaced the cam chain tensioner guide with a new one and rode it around the garden till it got hot and it sounded ok. so going to ride it at a trial this weekend, should be interesting it all feels so different to the gasser.

    TLTEL

  3. Sure wish you would grow up a little, the way you post your topics is absolutely sh*ty and disrespectful.

    My point is you are Freaking almost a TROLL, I mean it. Unless I was trying to be a TROLL, I would hardly dare to get onto the "iPhone" forums and tell them what junk crapy things they are, and would probably be banned for daring to post topics you have...

    Yet you come here not only for help, but then say crap like that??? GO GET YOUR FRIGGN Sherco already.

    Give the lad a break. "Grow up" he is only thirteen so I am sure he will.

    Ben. Maybe you should think a bit before you start a post in frustration, there are some very sensitive people around here.

    Are you saying that you fixed the problem for £6 ??

    TLTEL

  4. Billyt.

    Good explanation and result. Not sure about starting your new bike with no oil in it but it was for a good cause.

    I have used ATF in my 95 gasser since i've had it (three years or more). Works good for me. Never seen inside my clutch yet

    TLTEL

  5. Rollox.

    Thanks for the input, it does seem very slack and when I put pressure on crankshaft in an up and down motion I can see the cam chain moving. It is hard to tell if it is the bearing moving or slack within the bearing itself, or maybe I am twisting it slightly.

    I have recently had to replace a crank on my sons XR 125 and although this is the push rod engine the bottom end is very similar. The bearing on that engine was not tight but it was more snug than my one.

    Maybe I should replace the cam chain guide first before diving inside and see if that makes it a bit quieter.

    Thanks for the link, I have used them before for TL bits so will take a look.

    TLTEL

  6. Hi.

    I had a look at my TLR at the weekend, with the intention of checking the cam chain tension by removing flywheel and manually adjusting the chain. (as suggested by AndyM)

    The reason being that the engine has got noticeably noisier recently. I have owned the bike about three years and have changed the oil a few times even though I have only ridden it a hand full of times.

    What I found!!

    The chain tensioner (adjuster side) has a small split at the bottom that opens slightly when pressure is applied, so I removed it to identify for replacement.

    Does anyone know if this item is the same as any other model ???

    I then had a look at the main bearing, wiped it with a rag on my finger and the whole bearing turned in the casing very easily.

    So what now?

    Is this a common fault with these engines?

    What is the solution?

    The internals look very clean, the bearing spins smoothly with no signs of previous over heating.

    Obviously if I am going to split the cases I will want to fit new bearings.

    Does anyone know the numbers so that I can source them from a local supplier?

    How easy is it to remove the sprocket from the crankshaft???

    Is there some sort of bearing locktight available?

    I have split and put back together several TL and an XR engine so that bit doesn't bother me, but any input or answers to my questions will be appreciated.

    The worst bit is, the last time I rode it was the first time I really enjoyed it, now its broke!!!

    Thanks.

    TLTEL

  7. Hi xeriotti.

    First off, I have nothing against these bikes, I ride a 95, 350 and my son has a 94, 125, but I think as you are used to stunt / trick riding you would be better off with the Beta if you can afford it.

    once you have bought this bike you will need to spend money on it, start with new tyres, brake over hall, suspension linkage (not cheap) probably wheel bearings and that's without tidying plastics etc

    Those front forks are not very good in my opinion, (same as my sons) and I think that unless you are good with the spanners you will end up spending a lot of money on it.

    But having said all that, it is still a capable bike and you will have fun on it if you decide to go for it!

    Just my opinion,

    TLTEL

  8. Stunning Bike Joe, can't wait to see it finished.

    Andy m is there a common problem with the TLR cam chain adjuster, It does seem a bit vague compared to the one on the TL.

    I took mine out for a blast about three weeks ago, first time for about 18 months (yes it did have oil in it ) and now it does sound a bit noisy around the cam chain side. releasing the lock nut didn't make any difference. It had a new cam chain 2 years ago and hasn't been used much since then so will try it manually.

    june 2013 002

    Here's a pic, I have re-covered the seat since this was taken.

    TLTEL

  9. Alan

    If you are going to do the water pump you need to change the seal and shaft, I got a kit for mine a couple of years ago, (from GGUK) and I think it included bearings as well.

    I am quite sure my kickstart shaft is 14mm, good luck with the Kawasaki shaft conversion!!

    TLTEL

  10. Hi Acealuk.

    just ask if you need anything specific, mine came to me with a snapped kickstart lever although the shaft was fine.

    It still has the original 14mm shaft and it has'nt been a problem but I think it was common in the day to convert to a 16mm shaft off the later model.

    I am sure mine is the same as my sons 94 jt125 although I have not studied the internal parts.

    I think you would be able to pick up a used one, there are usually a few bike being broken on Ebay.

    I have fitted an extra cylinder base gasket, that does make it slightly easier to start.

    TLTEL

  11. Hi and welcome.

    I have a 95 jt320 which has the same 350 engine, and yes it does have a lot of compression. I ride mine all the time in the novice route, think I've had it about three years now, I wouldn't say that it's smooth but it has loads of power. I posted a picture of it in the Gallery section under muddy gasgas. I rode a trial yesterday that had us riding through mud slurry that was deeper the engine cases. (and my boots)

    Most parts are still available from Gas Gas UK.

    TLTEL

  12. Clarky

    Glad its fixed, modified, ok now, kept us all amused for a week. :hyper:

    Just a question, you said that it never used to kick back, so do you think the timing had moved to make this problem happen, or something else.

    I am with Billy T in that I would want to know what had changed (does it need a de-coke for instance) to make a problem arise.

    TLTEL

    • Like 1
  13. good luck with it, its one of those jobs that is either straight forward or a pain in the butt.

    You might have to force fluid through from the bleed nipple if the other way doesn't work.

    It can be quite messy so it is worth removing pads to stop them getting contaminated.( just remember not to pump pedal without pads in place) Its worth slotting in some old ones, if you have them while you work on the system.

    TLTEL

 
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