My bike came to me with a sheared off kick starter, and tales of how hard it was to start.
The new starter cost the same as I paid for the bike. I played with the base gaskets, I now have two in there and it is a great runner and starter, it also sorted out the pinking / pinging issues it had.
Jse
"If you cant start it you cant ride it" Takes me back to when I was 11 and wanted to ride my Dad's BSA C15, that's what he used to say to me. I did it eventually,
Hi are you sure its not your kick method that is at fault. I don't know much about Betas but I ride a JT350 and you never want to give this a lazy kick or a prod because it will kick back like a mule. I always give it a good long kick using my body weight and it will start first time nearly all the time.
Gently find compression first then let kicker back to top then start.
Check the availability on the auction sites, as its a runner probably best to sell complete, certainly less hassle.
I broke and sold a TYZ that had seized a few years ago and got about £500 for all the parts. Sold every thing but what a pain packaging and sending all the stuff in the post. The bike only cost me £100 so I didn't mind too much.
As I said, just reading between the lines,it wasn't a" bite", just observation.
When my son started riding (I think he was eleven) nothing would have stopped him wanting to ride.
I hope you can find somewhere that he can get to practice where he is comfortable, not sure how your begginers trials work up your way, but I did one yesterday in Kent, they set out 4 routes and you pretty much ride what you want.
Some small lads where just riding between the sections, great way to learn the basics.
View from out side, just going by what I have read on this site, it seems there was a bit of a communication problem, I would have thought that a competition of this size, organisers would at least be able to text riders with information.
Please note not criticising the organisers / volunteers
Thanks for the replys guys, have just placed another order with splatshop, getting a new primary gear(think the clutch basket gear will be ok),also the ratchet that Zippy mentioned and some other bits and bobs. Will let you know if these improve the situation.
Fingers crossed that it does fix it without needing to split the cases again. Hope it hasnt cost too much so far. Its a great feeling when you solve the puzzle and you should have a good bike when its done.
I sometimes think every one should be made to strip and rebuild a motor just to see what happens when you stomp on that gear lever with a size 10 boot or stab at the kickstart with out taking up the slack in the gear first. It makes me cringe watching some people starting there bikes, a guy told me on Sunday that he had snapped three kickstart shafts and thought it was a design fault, Then I saw him start it.
check that the throttle tube isnt squashed or distorted, or full of mud causing it to bind on the handle bar, if its a domino then there is no spring.
I did use a slow action tube for a while on my 350 gasgas but went back to the fast. As Chuckindenver says, I also find the smaller wrist movement to be more comfortable.
That doesnt sound right, that surely means that the valves are open. You need to set timing at tdc on compression stroke, so it was probably right before. Not sure where you got your infomation from, the mark on the cam sprocket should be at the top.
Connect it up and run it through a firing cycle by turning the crankshaft with a socket bar, watch how the valves open in relation to the piston position and when the points start to open at the top of the compression stroke. It will help you to understand how it works.
I wouldnt worry too much about carb settings till you get it running, these engines will usually run as long as you are getting some fuel in.
Kicking Back When Starting
in Beta
Posted
Lots of chat!!
Wonder what happened to Clarky.
Probably down the Gym working those leg muscles,
TLTEL