well that sounds like a bit of mixture youve got there. Is the main engine TL.
I checked my TL yesterday and that has five wires coming out from the stator, I dont have lights so only use one wire.
I have an old stator that just has one coil inside ( off a TL125E) model and that is fitted to the bottom of the case.
I am not familiar with the CT as they didnt bring many of those into the UK.
I do know from experiance that the cam shafts for these engines are not all the same and are timed differently as are the centrafugal advance unit with the points cam on. You might have to ignore the marks stamped on the cam shaft sprocket and time it manualy.
I wouldnt think that the magnet positition would make any difference as it is not related to the timing like a bike with cdi ignition.
Back to the electrics, It does sound like a bad earth problem, Try running an earth cable to from engine to coil / condenser, if your frame has been painted or powder coated, this can cause a problem.,
I did have a TL125S model that was fully road legal (1978) and that had a battery fitted, maybe you could find a wiring diagram for that model.
One last thing, just thinking out loud really, I think they were wired with a constant charge to the battery via a regulator / rectifier and one of the stator wires went to the light switch so was only active when the head light was turned on and there was some thing electical mounted on the fork bottom yolk that pressumably took away the power at high revs to stop the bulb blowing.
I think we all tend to do that when out practicing, It helps if you can get a mate to set them out for you or with you, Include things that you dont like doing, so that you can practice those bits.
I dont like going over logs for some reason and you nearly always get them in our sections down in kent.
Turning on cambers is a good one to practice, make your section tight and keep at it, It does make you feel good when you do clean it.
Not today, but yesterday, Rode my Gasser in a great trial in kent. Mud, Mud and, more mud. Quite a few people had to take there front mudguards off so the wheel would go round.
Surely I can't be the only one that just Jet washs there bike off, quick wipe down,Wd - 40 over the moving bits and puts it away till next time.
I check it over the day before a trial, oil / adjust chain etc.
I have only had the stator cover of twice in three years, once just to have a look when I first bought it and once to replace crank seal. Both times it was dusty dry in there. 1995 gasser 350.
Hi choosing a bike is a personal thing really, if you're looking to spend £1500 you should get a good bike. Its always a bit of a gamble buying used but generally go for a bike that looks like its been looked after. If it looks like it needs lots of little things replacing, like broken levers, worn sprockets, tyres then chances are it probably has'nt had the oil changed regularly either. IMHO
There are some great bikes around 05, 06 for that money,good luck.
FWIW, I don't like Betas, but thats just a personal thing!!!
Today is the day I set fire to my bike, piece of s**t
To be fair, you are trying to do a rebuild in reverse, you should have stripped it and done it properly, If its been standing for, i think you said 6 years and obviously badly abused when it was working, (probably by you) you can hardly blame the bike can you???
I ordered a new sprocket, throttle cable and fuel pipe for my gas gas today.
Figured the old throttle cable is nearly 18 years old so i would change it before it broke on me. Never had a DNF due to bike failure yet.
£600 seems about right, you rarely pick something up for that price and don't have to do a bit of work on it. Look at it as getting to know it, change the gearbox oil, I use atf in my 95 and my sons 94 and they work fine, and as b40rt says start it in gear and ride it with the clutch in, it will soon free off.
You should have checked the electric feed to the thermo switch before buying a new fan, trace all the wires, check connections and most important clean the earth points.
Not sure if you have regulator or rectifier or both but these rarely fail, its more likely to be a connection or melted / pinched wire.
As said gasgasuk have most parts still available but you will have to order over the phone. brake parts, seals,bearings etc Ebay or splatshop as these bits are common to most bikes.
have you actually tried adjusting the carb fuel screw (assume its a dellorto) ? It can make a lot of difference to the way the engine runs, If removing the air filter helps then its probably just compensating for the fact that its getting too much fuel..
Also have you removed the choke plunger to check that it is shutting off the enriching circuit when you turn it off.
Can't get the kickstart sorted, local shop has nothing else that fits. I have found genuine Gas Gas ones online but at around £100 its alot of money! Worst thing is I read on one that its a 16mm shaft, I make mine out to be 13mm?
Any ideas?
Think my 95 jtr is a 14mm shaft, got my kickstart lever from gas gas.
glad you were reunited with your old TL. I bought my 76 TL in 1979, used it for about 5 years then sold it to a mate, years later bought it back and restored it and have used it in quite a few trials,it just sits in the garage at the moment, I start it up occasionaly and have a play on it.
Back to the coils my bike only had one fitted (I tried to buy one back in 79 from Honda as I wanted to fit lights but it was going to be too expensive) I would trace the wire to see where it goes to in the loom, I think it would just be an earth wire. If you cut it make sure you can solder it back together if needed.
from looking at your photos you need a new side casing the Corrosion has gone too far. I had to do this to mine. The casing will now be porous, sorry bud but its going to cost you.
Sorry but I have to agree, I think that pump is going to be trouble, You will never be sure its working right and it could destroy your engine!!
By coincidence I have just had this problem with an xr125 that I bought for my son, I was told when I bought it that it had a slight oil leak from the clutch side and that the cover had been replaced, I did buy the bike as a non runner.
Got it running and found the slight leak to be a gusher.
bought new gasket and fitted it with a bit of gasket dressing/ sealer, still gushing.
Took it apart again and found a hairline crack in the crank case where the bottom front screw fits.Today I have sealed it up with the silicone gasket sealer (I hate this stuff and dont like to use any thing on new gaskets ) Fitted another new gasket and its fine, ran it through a few heat cycles and no sign of oil leaks.
I will be looking for a replacement crankcase half once I have got the bike road legal.
The reason for that waffle is, Make sure you clean and check the crankcase before you put on the new cover, I wasted half a day today and a gasket and oil and didnt get to take the gas gas out.
1976 Tl125S Ignition Issues
in Honda
Posted
well that sounds like a bit of mixture youve got there. Is the main engine TL.
I checked my TL yesterday and that has five wires coming out from the stator, I dont have lights so only use one wire.
I have an old stator that just has one coil inside ( off a TL125E) model and that is fitted to the bottom of the case.
I am not familiar with the CT as they didnt bring many of those into the UK.
I do know from experiance that the cam shafts for these engines are not all the same and are timed differently as are the centrafugal advance unit with the points cam on. You might have to ignore the marks stamped on the cam shaft sprocket and time it manualy.
I wouldnt think that the magnet positition would make any difference as it is not related to the timing like a bike with cdi ignition.
Back to the electrics, It does sound like a bad earth problem, Try running an earth cable to from engine to coil / condenser, if your frame has been painted or powder coated, this can cause a problem.,
I did have a TL125S model that was fully road legal (1978) and that had a battery fitted, maybe you could find a wiring diagram for that model.
One last thing, just thinking out loud really, I think they were wired with a constant charge to the battery via a regulator / rectifier and one of the stator wires went to the light switch so was only active when the head light was turned on and there was some thing electical mounted on the fork bottom yolk that pressumably took away the power at high revs to stop the bulb blowing.
Hope this is of some help.
TLTEL