tltel

Hi Mate glad you were reunited with your old TL. I bought my 76 TL in 1979, used it for about 5 years then sold it to a mate, years later bought it back and restored it and have used it in quite a few trials,it just sits in the garage at the moment, I start it up occasionaly and have a play on it. Back to the coils my bike only had one fitted (I tried to buy one back in 79 from Honda as I wanted to fit lights but it was going to be too expensive) I would trace the wire to see where it goes to in the loom, I think it would just be an earth wire. If you cut it make sure you can solder it back together if needed. TLTEL

Sorry but I have to agree, I think that pump is going to be trouble, You will never be sure its working right and it could destroy your engine!! TLTEL

Hi Andy By coincidence I have just had this problem with an xr125 that I bought for my son, I was told when I bought it that it had a slight oil leak from the clutch side and that the cover had been replaced, I did buy the bike as a non runner. Got it running and found the slight leak to be a gusher. bought new gasket and fitted it with a bit of gasket dressing/ sealer, still gushing. Took it apart again and found a hairline crack in the crank case where the bottom front screw fits.Today I have sealed it up with the silicone gasket sealer (I hate this stuff and dont like to use any thing on new gaskets ) Fitted another new gasket and its fine, ran it through a few heat cycles and no sign of oil leaks. I will be looking for a replacement crankcase half once I have got the bike road legal. The reason for that waffle is, Make sure you clean and check the crankcase before you put on the new cover, I wasted half a day today and a gasket and oil and didnt get to take the gas gas out. TLTEL

Beat me to it with the head gasket, tried to buy one for a TYZ once, re-used the old one. Dont know why they are so expensive... TLTEL

Hi most of the scooter / ped sites will have tune up parts for those engines TLTEL

Hi Mike55 just to clarify what my problem was with squish clearance, I too was not used to 2 strokes and had always had 4 stroke bikes, so when I bought my gas gas and took it out for a run I was horrified by the knock when the engine got hot. After some research and firstly changing the small end bearing as the noise did sound like the top end, I discovered squish clearnce, very basicly its the distance between the top of the piston and the cylinder head. If you check the forums on here its explained how to measure it with a piece of solder wire. My bike had a very small clearance (cant remember size) so I took it up to max recomended gap think it was 1.5mm by fitting two cylinder base gaskets. Being a 350cc it also made the bike easier to kick over and start.Two years later it has'nt missed a beat. Not saying this is your problem but it made me understand the bike a bit more, presumeably you would get a similar symptom if you needed to decoke the top end. Good luck TLTEL

Hi I assume you mean the arm on the end of the gear shaft and not the actual selecter fork inside the gearbox. Did try turning the star on the end of the selecter drum to make sure gears can be selected with out the shaft in place. When you refit the shaft run it up and down through the gears by hand before putting it all back together. TLTEL

Hi Its a long time since I had a look inside my TLS but have you checked the arm on the gear shaft to make sure its not bent or worn were were it locates on the selecter star. Also Is it the clutch cover that stops the shaft from moving in(end play ) ? It could be worn. Can't really see how it could be inside the gearbox. TLTEL

Hi I dont know much about TY'S , but it sounds a bit like the problem I had with my gasser when I got it, it sounded serious,quite a heavy knock, I changed small end bearing and it was still the same, turned out to be the squish clearance was too tight (practically none existant). Fitted a thicker base gasket and it cured it. TLTEL

Today I rode my old 350 gas gas round 45 extremely muddy sections. Brilliant! The longest trial loop I have ever ridden, more like an enduro circuit. Pumped that clutch so much my finger hurt !! TLTEL

maybe he is going to be using the new 125.. TLTEL

Hi pete-scorpa3. I do hope you get this sorted and I admire you for the time and effort you have put in to this to comply with MSA requirements. I also feel that the acu should jump in and get their legal department to clarify this for their members. There really should not be so many grey areas. When this event (and others) does go ahead I hope all those that turn up and ride appreciate how much work (unpaid) goes into organising it. TLTEL

You mean brake then! TLTEL

Betas with rotten cases? This is a new one on me, what with stators packing up cracking frames, kickstart on the wrong side, I would buy a Gas Gas TLTEL

I have the 350 version of this bike that I ride all the time. And yes it is big and heavy but I love it. so reliable, but there must be something wrong with it because it wont do what his does!!!!! TLTEL

My mate had ty 50 on the road back in the late 70's, that had lights fitted, bit hard to find one now though.

Do you never try another position?

Not sure about Fat bars but I bought my son mini Renthals for his TL125 when he was having the same reach problems a few years ago. TLTEL

Hi Ben hopefully you have fixed this by now. But I have used a torx (star shaped) bit as suggested by neilh, make sure there is not any dirt left in the bolt head and GENTLY tap in a torx bit of about the same size as the allen key. This will usually work on small bolts. I take it that you never replaced them all with Bling then ! TLTEL

Have you got free play at the brake pedal? there should be a couple of mm free play on lever, you can adjust it on the push rod attatched to the pedal. If the rod is touching the piston the pads may not move back easily. TLTEL

Sorry for not getting back on this Copemech. I tried it with the wire not connected and no spark. Ran the wire to earth and it worked, Thanks I was a bit worried I might blow the CDI if it was wrong. TLTEL

Hi Matt Good to see you're taking it to the next level, as said you will need to have propper boots but the helmet should be ok to start with if its road legal,trial ones tend to be lighter with air flow, your head can get very sweaty. Do you know about Hook Woods trials park, not far from you,(they have a webbsite i think) they have practice days quite often and its a great way to get used to doing sections without any pressure. Goog luck TLTEL

Hi Matt Interesting reading, nice looking bike. I am not familiar with these carbs, but have you checked that the float hieght is set right, you should be able to get the infomation on here or google it. It usually involves bending the tab on the float that shuts off the fuel flow, i see from your picture that the carb is tilted down towards the engine, so if fuel level is slightly too high then it could be flooding the engine but not coming out of the carb overflow. Also what fuel oil mix are you using? not sure whats recomended for these bikes but its worth checking your not putting too much oil in! I would also be checking head bolts are tight, (can need tightening after a rebuild) and take off exhaust and shine a light in the port have a look at piston and bore, you dont know that the rebuild was done by someone that knew what they were doing. ( i bought a bike and found that it had only one piston ring in it once) did you check out the crank seal when you took the flywheel off? good luck TLTEL

Hi Ben If you havent already sorted the brake problem. I would say that it is probably not air in system, but the pads are too far away from the disc. When you put the wheel back on, you have forced the pads back into the calipers, which has pushed fluid back into the reservoir. If you use the brake leverl normally it only moves a small amount of fliud so the pads are not foced tight against the disc, when you release the brake the pads move back again. I find the best way to get the pressure back is to use your hand on the lever and pump it quickly several times, this moves more fliud and the pads settle to where they should be. Bleeding the back brake is not usually a fun job and I wouldnt recomend doing it unless its absolutely essential. It can be frustrating and messy. Good luck TLTEL

I could never see the point in sidecar trials untill about two years ago at hook woods,I watched a couple of sidecar lads practiceing on the rocks and slabs in the main arena, They were amazing! TLTEL