hopefully you have fixed this by now. But I have used a torx (star shaped) bit as suggested by neilh, make sure there is not any dirt left in the bolt head and GENTLY tap in a torx bit of about the same size as the allen key. This will usually work on small bolts.
I take it that you never replaced them all with Bling then !
Have you got free play at the brake pedal? there should be a couple of mm free play on lever, you can adjust it on the push rod attatched to the pedal.
If the rod is touching the piston the pads may not move back easily.
Good to see you're taking it to the next level, as said you will need to have propper boots but the helmet should be ok to start with if its road legal,trial ones tend to be lighter with air flow, your head can get very sweaty.
Do you know about Hook Woods trials park, not far from you,(they have a webbsite i think) they have practice days quite often and its a great way to get used to doing sections without any pressure.
I am not familiar with these carbs, but have you checked that the float hieght is set right, you should be able to get the infomation on here or google it. It usually involves bending the tab on the float that shuts off the fuel flow, i see from your picture that the carb is tilted down towards the engine, so if fuel level is slightly too high then it could be flooding the engine but not coming out of the carb overflow.
Also what fuel oil mix are you using? not sure whats recomended for these bikes but its worth checking your not putting too much oil in!
I would also be checking head bolts are tight, (can need tightening after a rebuild) and take off exhaust and shine a light in the port have a look at piston and bore, you dont know that the rebuild was done by someone that knew what they were doing. ( i bought a bike and found that it had only one piston ring in it once)
did you check out the crank seal when you took the flywheel off?
If you havent already sorted the brake problem. I would say that it is probably not air in system, but the pads are too far away from the disc. When you put the wheel back on, you have forced the pads back into the calipers, which has pushed fluid back into the reservoir. If you use the brake leverl normally it only moves a small amount of fliud so the pads are not foced tight against the disc, when you release the brake the pads move back again.
I find the best way to get the pressure back is to use your hand on the lever and pump it quickly several times, this moves more fliud and the pads settle to where they should be.
Bleeding the back brake is not usually a fun job and I wouldnt recomend doing it unless its absolutely essential. It can be frustrating and messy.
I could never see the point in sidecar trials untill about two years ago at hook woods,I watched a couple of sidecar lads practiceing on the rocks and slabs in the main arena, They were amazing!
I like the Bullet, I let one of these slip through my fingers earlier in the year, my mate sold it on ebay for next to nothing andI regret not buying it.
Like the video too.
I don't know anything about Bultacos but that one looks like a good starting point as long as it doesnt go for silly money. Even so you cant really loose money on the olld bikes.
Just had new fork oil & seals done, I developed a leak on the weekend. as I took the forks off I noticed the other fork had a chip out of the upper section but though why is it not leaking also.
I got the answer to that today, No flippin oil in the fork.
Now I know I did not chip the upper fork leg so I must have bought it like that.
Do you think we are all taking this a bit too seriously? On reflection it is just supposed to be a bit of fun you know out on your bike having fun?
Just a thought sorry must be the Christmas cheer
You are probably right, I came away from a very muddy trial last weekend with my highest score ever (101). Would I ride the same trial again this weekend if I could ?
I was'nt disputing your senario's, you would have to be pretty unlucky to have head O ring failure and a crimped over flow hose,but it could happen if the bike was put back together in a rush or by someone not used to working on these bikes.
Unfortunately it does look like the head needs to come off to check the seals.
good post and I agree with every thing you said, as a 50 + novice that doesnt take the sport too seriously I thought NO stop would be better, but I have noticed that after the first few trials the stop for a 5 penalty is not given out as much as it probably should be. I think this is partly due to section setters not really setting sections for no stop riding, so OBSERVERS have to decide weather to be leaniant or give everyone a 5.
Sectionone.
I think club trials must be a bit different over here! A time limit would be great. But as Rabie said quite often the observers are picked at
the last minute, often an unsuspecting spouse that thought they would just come along and see what the fascination is with this Trialing lark, only to be given a clip board and very brief instruction of the rules, Most observers (my self included) dont know what an APP is.
But I was thinking that surely the rad cap is designed to release pressure, before the seals let go, otherwise any time the engine got too hot you would end up with water in your gearbox. But I suppose if the seals were worn anyway, it could finish them off!
Shercoben
Have you got it sorted yet? You said in another post that you have been working on a 98 gasser, water pump seals should be easy enough for you to do. You can get the kit which includes the shaft from gas gas uk next day delivery. Its a good way to learn mechanics, there are loads of help videos on youtube. It seems you and your mates have quite a few bikes between you, it helps to know how they work.
I am surprised that nobody mentioned the possibility of water leaking past the O-rings under the head. They can get out of position when reassembling the head after replacing the piston.
Don't run the bike with milky oil. Water is not a very good lubricant and you don't want to have to do another repair.
When you say you sent the rad away, I assume you mean the whole bike. Its unlikely that they have damaged your pump seals but this is often the cause of water in the oil, as you have already concluded.
The.seals could have been damaged either when the piston damage happened, or when the piston was replaced by contaminating the cooling fluid, could also be due to not flushing the rad after the repair.
Seals are not expensive and quite easy to change, so I would change them, and flush the cooling system and change the gearbox oil and hopefullyit will be sorted.
you only mention the idle screw, what about the mixture (air/fuel) screw, it might just want setting up, not sure what carb you have, if you search the forums on here, there are some good tips on setting up carbs.
Also check that the end of the idle screw is not worn. Should be impossible but is slide in back to front?
Does any one know why a stator pulse sender would have two wires? Normally in the small bikes that I play with
there is just one wire that goes to the CDI box that then sends the signal to the coil to make it spark.
I am not concerned about the generator wires, only the pulse wire.
To explain, I have bought a new stator for my sons bike that is identical except it has an extra wire coming from the pulse unit, there are six wires in total coming from the stator unit, Five match up perfectly in colour and conections but I have an extra wire (green and white).
Could it be for a diferent model with a rev counter?, should it still work without this wire connected?,
The shop I bought it from say its the only one they have and cant give me any technical advice.
I Should mention its for a Sachs 50 scooter, IT DOES SAY ANYTHING GOES!
I have done the gas gas head O rings a few times and found you have to be careful not to twist the O ring when running your finger over them to insert them.
Think I used gasket sealer in the grooves, sort of put it on then wiped it off, just leaving a smear to act as a glue.
I have an old JTR 320 that is a 350cc and I raised the barrel on thicker base gaskets to lower the compression, it has made it easier to kick over and stopped it pinking. You still have to give it a good hard prod to start it or it will kick you back. I tend to stand up and lower my weight on to it, bit like starting an old 4 stroke.
It doesnt put so much strain on the starter gear either.
sorry must be the Christmas cheer 
Triming Handle Bars Down ?
in Youth Trials
Posted
Not sure about Fat bars but I bought my son mini Renthals for his TL125 when he was having the same reach problems a few years ago.
TLTEL