I like the Bullet, I let one of these slip through my fingers earlier in the year, my mate sold it on ebay for next to nothing andI regret not buying it.
Like the video too.
I don't know anything about Bultacos but that one looks like a good starting point as long as it doesnt go for silly money. Even so you cant really loose money on the olld bikes.
Just had new fork oil & seals done, I developed a leak on the weekend. as I took the forks off I noticed the other fork had a chip out of the upper section but though why is it not leaking also.
I got the answer to that today, No flippin oil in the fork.
Now I know I did not chip the upper fork leg so I must have bought it like that.
Do you think we are all taking this a bit too seriously? On reflection it is just supposed to be a bit of fun you know out on your bike having fun?
Just a thought sorry must be the Christmas cheer
You are probably right, I came away from a very muddy trial last weekend with my highest score ever (101). Would I ride the same trial again this weekend if I could ?
I was'nt disputing your senario's, you would have to be pretty unlucky to have head O ring failure and a crimped over flow hose,but it could happen if the bike was put back together in a rush or by someone not used to working on these bikes.
Unfortunately it does look like the head needs to come off to check the seals.
good post and I agree with every thing you said, as a 50 + novice that doesnt take the sport too seriously I thought NO stop would be better, but I have noticed that after the first few trials the stop for a 5 penalty is not given out as much as it probably should be. I think this is partly due to section setters not really setting sections for no stop riding, so OBSERVERS have to decide weather to be leaniant or give everyone a 5.
Sectionone.
I think club trials must be a bit different over here! A time limit would be great. But as Rabie said quite often the observers are picked at
the last minute, often an unsuspecting spouse that thought they would just come along and see what the fascination is with this Trialing lark, only to be given a clip board and very brief instruction of the rules, Most observers (my self included) dont know what an APP is.
But I was thinking that surely the rad cap is designed to release pressure, before the seals let go, otherwise any time the engine got too hot you would end up with water in your gearbox. But I suppose if the seals were worn anyway, it could finish them off!
Shercoben
Have you got it sorted yet? You said in another post that you have been working on a 98 gasser, water pump seals should be easy enough for you to do. You can get the kit which includes the shaft from gas gas uk next day delivery. Its a good way to learn mechanics, there are loads of help videos on youtube. It seems you and your mates have quite a few bikes between you, it helps to know how they work.
I am surprised that nobody mentioned the possibility of water leaking past the O-rings under the head. They can get out of position when reassembling the head after replacing the piston.
Don't run the bike with milky oil. Water is not a very good lubricant and you don't want to have to do another repair.
When you say you sent the rad away, I assume you mean the whole bike. Its unlikely that they have damaged your pump seals but this is often the cause of water in the oil, as you have already concluded.
The.seals could have been damaged either when the piston damage happened, or when the piston was replaced by contaminating the cooling fluid, could also be due to not flushing the rad after the repair.
Seals are not expensive and quite easy to change, so I would change them, and flush the cooling system and change the gearbox oil and hopefullyit will be sorted.
you only mention the idle screw, what about the mixture (air/fuel) screw, it might just want setting up, not sure what carb you have, if you search the forums on here, there are some good tips on setting up carbs.
Also check that the end of the idle screw is not worn. Should be impossible but is slide in back to front?
Does any one know why a stator pulse sender would have two wires? Normally in the small bikes that I play with
there is just one wire that goes to the CDI box that then sends the signal to the coil to make it spark.
I am not concerned about the generator wires, only the pulse wire.
To explain, I have bought a new stator for my sons bike that is identical except it has an extra wire coming from the pulse unit, there are six wires in total coming from the stator unit, Five match up perfectly in colour and conections but I have an extra wire (green and white).
Could it be for a diferent model with a rev counter?, should it still work without this wire connected?,
The shop I bought it from say its the only one they have and cant give me any technical advice.
I Should mention its for a Sachs 50 scooter, IT DOES SAY ANYTHING GOES!
I have done the gas gas head O rings a few times and found you have to be careful not to twist the O ring when running your finger over them to insert them.
Think I used gasket sealer in the grooves, sort of put it on then wiped it off, just leaving a smear to act as a glue.
I have an old JTR 320 that is a 350cc and I raised the barrel on thicker base gaskets to lower the compression, it has made it easier to kick over and stopped it pinking. You still have to give it a good hard prod to start it or it will kick you back. I tend to stand up and lower my weight on to it, bit like starting an old 4 stroke.
It doesnt put so much strain on the starter gear either.
Can you tell me how I managed to get a 10 mark for one section, I certanly never missed it and I believe it should have been a 1. Still managed to beat my mate though!
Don't think I will make the wobblers but will definately ride there again. Preferably in the dry!
Just like to say well done to the Sidcup Trials club for a great trial on sunday. The weather was terrible, with heavy rain before and during the trial, but we (me and my mate) still had a great day, finished covered in mud and worn out.
Results and pics on the webb site Sunday evening.
A big thanks to the Observers, they must have been frozen.
sounds to me like you got an air leak, most obvious would be a split in the inlet rubber between carb and reeds you might have to take it off to have a good look at it, they get very hard and brittle with age so it might not be sealing properly.
Other thing to look at would be the stator side crank seal these can fail as they are dry on one side, if the bike has been standing for a long time it would be worth giving the fly wheeland stator a clean.
You will need a puller for the flywheel,you would be welcome to borrow mine. I live in Folkestone too.
check the rubber first, these bikes are no where near as finicky as modern bikes, if the carb looks clean I think it would run.
Most things have been said already, sorry buty not sure if the bike is water cooled or not, if it is then check coolant level it could be sucking in through head gasket.
Assunming that the the choke is working ok in the carb I would check the reed valves as they become brittle, (especially if they are the originals) and sometimes can break,
Being a Beta I would also check the electrics, check the wires make sure there is a good earth to the coil, check the ht lead, give it a gentle pull to make sure its connected properly.
Not sure how the valves are set in the TLR head but I have done TL ones several times with a standard car valve spring compressor with a socket or tube spacer on the spring end, its easy getting them apart but a bit fidley putting the collets back in. put a small blob of grease on the stem and they will stick, then locate them with a small screwdriver.
Before you put it back together make sure you remove any burrs from inside the flywheel and from the taper on the shaft. Try fitting the flwheel on the shaft with out the key just to make sure it fits snug.
I think the finger operates the auto decompresser, in which case the bit that sticks out (technical term) must engage with the finger. I will try to have a look at my manual tomorrow, its a few years since I took mine apart.
It shouldnt really shear that easy, but maybe if the flywheel wasnt as tight as it should be and then you reving it, it could have sheared.
I had one shear on a road bike once, when I took the cover off, the flywheel nut was only finger tight. (not touched from new) The key is only there to locate, its not meant to take any strain.
sorry must be the Christmas cheer 
Help 2013 Gg Pro 2013
in Gas Gas
Posted
Could be an old clock spring!
Deffinately a wind up !!!!!
TLTEL