tltel

Hi Ben When you say you sent the rad away, I assume you mean the whole bike. Its unlikely that they have damaged your pump seals but this is often the cause of water in the oil, as you have already concluded. The.seals could have been damaged either when the piston damage happened, or when the piston was replaced by contaminating the cooling fluid, could also be due to not flushing the rad after the repair. Seals are not expensive and quite easy to change, so I would change them, and flush the cooling system and change the gearbox oil and hopefullyit will be sorted. TLTEL

you only mention the idle screw, what about the mixture (air/fuel) screw, it might just want setting up, not sure what carb you have, if you search the forums on here, there are some good tips on setting up carbs. Also check that the end of the idle screw is not worn. Should be impossible but is slide in back to front? TLTEL

Does any one know why a stator pulse sender would have two wires? Normally in the small bikes that I play with there is just one wire that goes to the CDI box that then sends the signal to the coil to make it spark. I am not concerned about the generator wires, only the pulse wire. To explain, I have bought a new stator for my sons bike that is identical except it has an extra wire coming from the pulse unit, there are six wires in total coming from the stator unit, Five match up perfectly in colour and conections but I have an extra wire (green and white). Could it be for a diferent model with a rev counter?, should it still work without this wire connected?, The shop I bought it from say its the only one they have and cant give me any technical advice. I Should mention its for a Sachs 50 scooter, IT DOES SAY ANYTHING GOES! Thanks in advance. TLTEL

I have done the gas gas head O rings a few times and found you have to be careful not to twist the O ring when running your finger over them to insert them. Think I used gasket sealer in the grooves, sort of put it on then wiped it off, just leaving a smear to act as a glue. I have an old JTR 320 that is a 350cc and I raised the barrel on thicker base gaskets to lower the compression, it has made it easier to kick over and stopped it pinking. You still have to give it a good hard prod to start it or it will kick you back. I tend to stand up and lower my weight on to it, bit like starting an old 4 stroke. It doesnt put so much strain on the starter gear either. TLTEL

just a few questions. did you have to remove the water pump, or drain the coolant? Did you have to remove the fuel tank to top up coolant. Maybe you have dislodged a wire,or got coolant into electrics. Maybe you trapped the fuel line when you put tank back on. Did you start the bike with the tank off? Maybe got dirt in the fuel line or in to the carb. Just a few Ideas! when things like this happen after you have been working on the bike, its usually human error and not just coincidence! TLTEL

ever heard the expression? " if It Aint broke don't Fix it". You said it had good compression, so just get out and ride it! TLTEL

HI Rabie Can you tell me how I managed to get a 10 mark for one section, I certanly never missed it and I believe it should have been a 1. Still managed to beat my mate though! Don't think I will make the wobblers but will definately ride there again. Preferably in the dry! Thanks again TLTEL

Just like to say well done to the Sidcup Trials club for a great trial on sunday. The weather was terrible, with heavy rain before and during the trial, but we (me and my mate) still had a great day, finished covered in mud and worn out. Results and pics on the webb site Sunday evening. A big thanks to the Observers, they must have been frozen. TLTEL

hi Sherlock, sounds to me like you got an air leak, most obvious would be a split in the inlet rubber between carb and reeds you might have to take it off to have a good look at it, they get very hard and brittle with age so it might not be sealing properly. Other thing to look at would be the stator side crank seal these can fail as they are dry on one side, if the bike has been standing for a long time it would be worth giving the fly wheeland stator a clean. You will need a puller for the flywheel,you would be welcome to borrow mine. I live in Folkestone too. check the rubber first, these bikes are no where near as finicky as modern bikes, if the carb looks clean I think it would run. I assume you have a good plug in the bike. TLTEL

Hi Most things have been said already, sorry buty not sure if the bike is water cooled or not, if it is then check coolant level it could be sucking in through head gasket. Assunming that the the choke is working ok in the carb I would check the reed valves as they become brittle, (especially if they are the originals) and sometimes can break, Being a Beta I would also check the electrics, check the wires make sure there is a good earth to the coil, check the ht lead, give it a gentle pull to make sure its connected properly. Hope you get it sorted. TLTEL

Just read through this lot, Cant believe you didnt try another plug, I have had new plugs that dont work or misfire when hot. TLTEL

Not sure how the valves are set in the TLR head but I have done TL ones several times with a standard car valve spring compressor with a socket or tube spacer on the spring end, its easy getting them apart but a bit fidley putting the collets back in. put a small blob of grease on the stem and they will stick, then locate them with a small screwdriver. TLTEL

Hi its always nice to be right ! Before you put it back together make sure you remove any burrs from inside the flywheel and from the taper on the shaft. Try fitting the flwheel on the shaft with out the key just to make sure it fits snug. TLTEL

Sensible answer! Float valve is not shutting off, could be grit in valve or float is split or hieght needs adjusting. strip it down again, put your mouth over the nozzle whilst lightly feeling underneath with your finger, suck and blow and you should feel resistance. good luck! TLTEL

I think the finger operates the auto decompresser, in which case the bit that sticks out (technical term) must engage with the finger. I will try to have a look at my manual tomorrow, its a few years since I took mine apart. TLTEL

It shouldnt really shear that easy, but maybe if the flywheel wasnt as tight as it should be and then you reving it, it could have sheared. I had one shear on a road bike once, when I took the cover off, the flywheel nut was only finger tight. (not touched from new) The key is only there to locate, its not meant to take any strain. Might be worth checking the reeds! Hope you get it sorted. TLTEL

HI If its been sat around in a shed for a year, you will have to get rid of the fuel thats in the tank and clean out the carb. put fresh petrol mix in and it will probably be fine. TLTEL

woodruff key could have sheared, so timing has gone out. TLTEL

Well ! Is it back together yet? TLTEL

yes! Screw,spring, washer, the more you unscrew it the more fuel you get to the primary circuit. if you strip the carb down you can see what it does. Start at about three turns out and go from there. Not saying that this will cure your problem but when you are adjusting, it helps to know what is actually happening when you turn the screw. I would still do the stator side crank seal, as long as you have a flywheel puller this is a very simple cheap job to do.(as you said earlier) TLTEL

Hi do you still have the standaed TLR kickstarter on the bike, complete with the stop arm fixed by the rear brake lever? TLTEL

Bought mine from them about 5 years ago. still ok. TLTEL

Or its ATF in the engine! TLTEL.

Hi, Just a comment, If you have the same dellorto carb as the earlier models then the mixture adjustment screw is a fuel adjuster and not an air screw. TLTEL

Hi MCE insurance advertise in TMX "theft insurance for your off road bike" give them a try. Also you could try MSM they do off road bikes. TLTEL