Hi you shouldnt need to split the cases to change the seals, if that is what you need to do. In my experience it is usualy the fly wheel side seal that suffers the most because it is running dry on one side(this should make it run weak if it fails). Easy to change once fly wheel is removed. You can carefully insert two small self tapping screws into seal and then pull seal out whithout damaging the case. oil up and pop new seal in.The other side should be the same but you will have to remove the clutch and water pump gear to get to it.
before you do all that I would make sure the exhaust is clear as it could be full of gunk that is burning, clean air filter and make sure you are using the recomended 2t mix for that bike.
Is it using gearbox oil?
You didnt say if this is a new problem or have you just bought the bike with this problem.
Hi I have changed one on my sons 94 contact, I didnt have to remove swing arm. It is tight and it depends on weather you have the straight swing arm or the one that curves around the master cylinder. I think you should gain a bit more room if you take out the top bolt from the shock and let the swing arm hang down a bit.
Just a thought, If your bleed nipple is loose in the thread,you can draw air in to the system as you push in the fluid. (assuming you are using a syringe and tube) I have in the past has to put a small amount of PTFE tape around the nipple thread, Blead system then remove tape and tighten up, it really should not be that hard.
I've looked on there and the dealer didnt seem to have much choice, I've also e-mailed gas gas about the parts problem but no reply as of yet
Hi
I use gas gas uk for parts for my sons 94, 125 and my 95, 320 and they have always had what i wanted and post them very quickly.( Including plastics, bearings, seals, clutch plates, carb parts and gaskets)
You will have to order over the phone but you can get the number from their website.
I have a TL125S which runs great but as you know lacks some grunt, I am thinking of a Sammy Miller 150 conversion kit, is there anyone who has completed a recent conversion, can say if it's worth the money or hassle ?
Hi
I had a new one done about 18 months ago ,(previous one done about 30 years ago) I sent my barrel to sammy miller products and it came back about a week later all done, bored out with a new piston and gaskets.
Phone first and speak to Richard to pre arrange it and get a quote, he is very helpful.
As for is it worth it? you will notice a good improvement in low end power and I would say yes it is worth doing especially if your 125 is a little tired anyway.
You will see the 124 or 122 on the outside of the barrel, I think its under the inlet behind the carb.
I had this problem once, ruined a new seal and had to buy the complete kit again.
I always lube every thing with the brake fluid and make sure the seal groove is clean, its usually the outside of the groove that you cant see that has the muck in.
I made a small L shaped scraper to get in the groove.
Make sure there are no burrs on the piston (puck) and push in with your fingers and twist a little as it goes in. ( thats the piston that you twist!)
I have a 95gg320 and my son has a 94gg125 which both have the two two piston AJP calipers.
Both front brakes are very good and will only ever need one finger to stop even on steep long hills and you can easily lock up the wheel if you want. My son is 15 and loves to stand his bike on the front wheel (stoppy).
There is very little actual movement in the lever and they both feel solid. I have the short lever and my son has the long levers on his bike.
Sounds like you still have air in your system, or as jon said your master cylinder is worn out.
I changed a weeping caliper seal on saturday, refitted caliper bled system and all working fine, took about an hour for the whole job and was working great. (it still worked even with the calliper weeping.
Basically the brakes are plenty good enough.
Also worth mentioning, I only buy cheap pads off Ebay usually about
My best advice is don,t practice in trainers, always put your boots on even for a quick play. My dad taught me that when he put a foot peg inside his ankle practicing in the back garden 30 years ago.
I still won,t even start my bikes unless I have boots on!
Practice land is very hard to come by, but a lot of clubs are doing begginer and wobbler days which are good to get started, and fun.
I think SL ones are the same and probably XL of the same period, most of the small hondas had the same 31mm forks but the top clamps are wider on some models.
Thanks for reply Mick, glad I asked now as my son is only 15 so would have been well p155ed off if we had turned up and he couldnt ride after an hour and a halfs drive.
Oh dear ,i hope you didnt pay too much for this bike.
first off you should be able to identify bike by engine and frame nos.
Phone Gas Gas Uk and they will be able to supply all the parts you need and tell you what bike you have.(JTX on the tank is a bit of a clue)
Sounds like you are over heating and possibly seizing up which is why it stops after warming up,( it could be fuel blockage) I would check that pump is working first,Take the cap off when it is cold and start it, you should see the water pumping around.
Check the fan by bypassing the thermostat and starting the bike.
Hopefully the fan will spin and you can replace the thermostat,(About
Hi Sorry but I dont know what jets are in them, they were both bought as complete carbs, sold for 125 hondas and were fitted straight onb even the TLR one. I bought them direct from an Asian website through Ebay (cant remember the exact name) and the delivery was very fast.
I think I searched for an SL / CB / CL carb instaed of TL as you get more hits and are less likely to be charged more just becacause its for a TL.
I have also used the same supplier to buy a cam chain adjuster and a couple of carb to air filter rubbers, and they were genuine parts.
I have replaced the carbs on my TL and TLR with these carbs, They both work fine and are now a couple of years old and were cheaper than some used ones that were for sale at the same time.
Just thought I would add, If anyone is thinking of going to one of these practice days, I can recomend it as a very enjoyable days riding with a friendly atmosphere. My son and I both relatively new to trials found the red novice route spot on, we were able to do six rounds of 10 sections on Jan 2nd and both had the best day trialing ever. Its a good way to gain confidence without scaring yourself.
timming!! didnt go that far just pulled the lump out
Just a thought, I have the same bike and my son has the JT125, we had a similar problem and it turned out to be the wires to the coil. We had a spark with the tank and cover removed but when the tank was fitted and we tried to start it it woud'nt go.Only found the problem when it did actually start and then stoped as soon as I sat on the bike. I had to replace some of the wires and reroute them so the tank did'nt touch them.
I would be supprised if your carb settings would stop it from starting, just maybe make it run badly.
Hi I agree with bobtlr,the brakes on mine are very good,much better than on my TL125.
It could be that you need new cables this can make a huge difference if your old ones are stretched.
Also in my opinion there are some very cheap and probably nasty replacement shoes on the market, I would make sure you go for a known brand at least on the front where it really matters.
How To Change Crankshaft Oil Seal On Scorpa
in Scorpa
Posted
Hi you shouldnt need to split the cases to change the seals, if that is what you need to do. In my experience it is usualy the fly wheel side seal that suffers the most because it is running dry on one side(this should make it run weak if it fails). Easy to change once fly wheel is removed. You can carefully insert two small self tapping screws into seal and then pull seal out whithout damaging the case. oil up and pop new seal in.The other side should be the same but you will have to remove the clutch and water pump gear to get to it.
before you do all that I would make sure the exhaust is clear as it could be full of gunk that is burning, clean air filter and make sure you are using the recomended 2t mix for that bike.
Is it using gearbox oil?
You didnt say if this is a new problem or have you just bought the bike with this problem.
TLTEL