Just to add to what has already been said, I find mine works beter if you dont kick it too hard, as in let the decompressor do the work and just push rather than kick the starter down, then let it idle a bit before opening the throtle.
Also if you do kick it over a lot check that you havent bent the kickstart stop bracket under the brake pedal.
I had a siezed brake piston in my sons 94 gas gas (AJP same as yours)and tried several ways to remove it but found that the recess in the piston was tapered and nothing would grip it. compressed air wouldnt move it.
The previous owner had ridden it for a long time without a front brake and it was solid.
simple but drastic solution was to drill a 5.5mm hole in centre of the piston, tap a 6mm thread into piston, screw in bolt and it will push against back of caliper and out comes the piston, it actualy only took minutes to do and you get new pistons with the seal kit.
Obviously you must make sure you only drill through the piston and not into the caliper body.
Before doing all that work, take the clutch cover off the 150 engine and check the spring arm and roller are engaging on the end of the selecter shaft. ther is a star on the end of the shaft, you can see it move when you select a gear,the small roller engages in the star and holds it in gear.
sometimes the arm comes loose and stops it working. if my memory is correct you can see it with the clucth drum in place but you cant get to the 10mm bolt without removing the drum. still easier than stripping two engines and you will still have a spare.
I have had similar problems bleeding brakes as I am more used to nice easy cables, but having aquired a couple of gassers in the last couple of years and replaced all seals and pistons I now am reasonably confident about bleeding the systems.
This has been covered on here many times over, but it seems the only easy way to do it is to push the fluid in through the bleed nipple and up to the master cylinder.
Start with the reservoir and pipe empty get a large syringe from a bike shop or farm store, load it with fluid and with a pipe fitted to the bleed nipple push the fluid up to the reservoir. you need to make sure there is free play on the lever pin or it will block the tiny hole in the master cylinder and wont let the fluid flow.
When it is full close the bleed nipple and work the brake lever it should have some pressure but sometimes just tapping the brakeline with spanner will make some air rise up and out into the reservoir.
I find that you dont get full pressure till the cap is screwed back on and you have used it a bit,
Also just letting a bit of fluid out of the bleed nipple after using it may expell a bit more air./
last bit, I have found that it can get a bit messy so do most of this with the wheel and pads removed.
Not sure what bike you have, but most brake parts for trials are made by AJP or Brembo. You might be lucky enough to find one that matches yours from another bike, I think most are mounted by the same two small bolts.
I fitted a new one to a 1994 gg Which was for a later model but had to alter push rod length to make it work properly.
You will more than likely have to buy new as they are prone to wear from dirt getting inside and scoring the bore so a used one is probably false economy. (new one was about
I have a 1996 350 and the kick starter just misses the foot peg, but your foot will stop on the peg when you kick the bike over.
When I got my bike last year I had to buy a new kick start as the original had snapped. I had it welded but it only lasted two trials.
Apparently this is a comon problem with the 350 as there is so much presure on the lever. (it is identical to the one on my sons 125 and you could start that with your slippers on, not recomended on the 350)
I have the same bike and in the past have had similar problems.
I cant remember if there is an earth for the coil but if there is, check and clean this first.
It is more than likely to be the points that are causing the problem, I ve never had a problem with generators or coils.
Check that the points are clean and definately closing and opening, turn over by hand. Check for a frayed wire on points conection a single strand of wire touching the engine will stop it sparking.( I have had this happen and its not obvious at first glance)
If that is all ok could be condenser but you will usually get a lot of arcing at the points.
Finally check for up and down movement on the cam shaft, if its got movement it will alter ponts gap when it is spinnig.
It looks bent both ends, if you are using the bike off road do as the other guy said, Fit lever straight on to gear shaft and get it up and away from you boots.
Try <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central> <mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central. Please delete this post>, you can phone them they have helped me with parts including new plastic for my sons 94,125 they do have a website but not everything is listed.
Also I have used trialsandtribulations they have a good website.
My TLR 200 is very easy to kick over in fact its more of a push than a kick, sounds like something is wrong with the decompresor.
Just a hint , If you do kick it too hard you can bend the flimsy kick start stop thats bolted to the frame by the kick start,I have had to straighten mine a few times,
Hi if you have the air box with the large side fitting , you can still get these from ebay I think Taiwan. I know it sounds a bit dodgy but Ihave bought them for both of my TLs and they are fine, they are listed as CB carb rubbers but fit ok and are very flexible, I have also bought brand new petcocks and carbs and they work fine and are cheap even when you add the postage on.
I hate to say this but it sounds like your forks might be bent.
Have you had the front whel out?
If they are not bent much you might be able to turn them slightly in the clamps to make them run smooth, Try turning them with the wheel out that should show you if they are bent or not.
(if the gap beween the forks stays the same they are not bent)
The way I bleed my back brakes is to use syringe with a small piece of pipe and fit this onto the master cylinder inlet pipe ( remove pipe from reservoir first). open bleed nipple and push new fluid through the system. shut nipple and pump brake pedal a few times still with syringe attached, then remove syringe refit reservoir pipe, top up reservoir,(dont over fill it because fluid needs some space for when it expands) hopefully brakes will be working after that.
knack of starting a 200tlr
in Honda
Posted
Hi
Just to add to what has already been said, I find mine works beter if you dont kick it too hard, as in let the decompressor do the work and just push rather than kick the starter down, then let it idle a bit before opening the throtle.
Also if you do kick it over a lot check that you havent bent the kickstart stop bracket under the brake pedal.
TLTEL