Do you know for sure that you have a lighting coil in the generator, on the TL 125 it was an optional extra. I think I would look at an xl from the same age to get an idea of the wiring layout switchgear and brake lights, you will also need to fit a battery if you want the lights to be effective.
Hi I think you have the right set up now, they shouldnt be that hard to compress, I think with two small spings in each you would be constantly on the rebound. try it like it is ,you might have to play around with differrent oils toget the damping right.
The forks on my TL are quite light but hanlde most things I throw it at. They are the later ones with the bolt on top and are easier to undo and do up, but I think they only have one long spring in them.
Hi make sure you have some free play on the brake lever, if you hav'nt it might stop the fluid returning to the reservoir and cause the pads to rub and over heat.try releasing the screw and lock nut on the lever.
A good bunch of photos. I have checked out your flickr site and there are lots of great trials pictures, Especially the ones of me and my son at the new year charity trial at hook woods, (I had just broken a metatarsal bone just before my picture was taken, Hense the grimace)
Hi Im not familiar with beta wiring but if the ignition and fan share a common earth, make sure the earth point is claen and secure, take it off and clean it, In have had a problem with and eath on one of my bikes. Try it It wont cost you anything,
I had a similar problem of the rear brake locking on my sons gas gas, Not sure why but it seems its not uncommon and managed to borrow a 10mm spanner off another rider that had also had this problem. Since then we always carry a spanner and just release the bleed nipple to reduce pressure.(although only had to do it one more time)
This was on a bike that had a new master cylinder and caliper seals and fliud level was correct, My assumption was that maybe my son tends to ride the back brake which overheats the fluid.
Its worth putting a spanner in your pocket next time out it might save your ride.
Hi Nice bike. But you really need to tie back that front brake cable before you kink it or worse still catch it on a branch, it will have you straight off before you know it.
Just read this post so ignore this if you have already sorted this out, I have ordered several parts from thialand including both the parts you have mentioned,for my TL.
The service has always been a lot quicker than they have stated, parts are good and well packed, Cheap too.
The air filter to carb rubber I ordered was for a CB125 but I took a chance and it fits great. and side cover fits ok.
Hi in 1977 I bought a 2 year old TL125 and used it for work daily, and any spare minute I had I was riding round a quary near my house, It was great fun and as mentioned you can easily change the gearing by changing the sprockets to make it usable on and off road, I even took my test on mine and past first time but it was easy in them days.
Hi just a suggestion, assuming the gear shaft set up is similar to the TL125. the shaft runs through the engine and connects to the seclter drum behind the clutch, as your engine has obviously been moved around a bit I would check here first before taking engine apart. The 10 mm nut sometimes comes undone on the end of the selecter drum so things dont engage properly. I think you can get to this without removeing the clutch basket,but not sure.
Hi These bushes are listed as in stock at www.cmsnl.com for 6.5 euros each, I have ordered lots of stuff for my TL125 (like front and rear tank rubbers that you cant get any where else) from here and the servive is excellent. When you order you can change the amount into pounds so you know what you are paying.
Hope this helps.
Just somthing to bear in mind I thought I was being clever about 20 years ago by fitting solid bushes in my TL wheel, that was untill; the hub shatered, so the rubber is there for a good reason.
Hi it sounds like your timing is out, so woodruff key seems possible, My mate had a moped that would run forwards or backwards, its a good party trick when done on purpose, but not good if it does it on its own.
I had trouble with my sons gas gas and found the best way to bleed brakes and clutch was to use a large syringe filled with brake fluid, connect to bleed niple and gently force the fluid back up to the reservoir, you need to empty the reservoir first and make sure the bleed nipple is not blocked and is clean.
I managed to get the clymer manual and a flywheel removing bolt from the guy that I bought the bike from, it all makes sense now!
I have also got a new chain to fit just to play safe, the guides look ok. The book says to adjust the chain when egine is running, hopefully that will be done by the weekend.
I have just taken my tlr 200 top side cover off to invesigate a very niosey cam chain, the chain was very loose, so I had a look at the adjuster which doesnt seem to do any thing when you turn it or even completely remove it.
I assumed it would be the same as my TL125 but its not. I havent been able to remove the flywheel yet, as again its not the same as the tl so will have to get a removal bolt. (for the TL I always used a rear wheel spindle )
The adjster moves up and down if you push it with your finger and does make the chain go tight if you pull the pin up but there is no way to hold it up.
Thanks guys,
My New Tl
in Honda
Posted
Hi
Do you know for sure that you have a lighting coil in the generator, on the TL 125 it was an optional extra. I think I would look at an xl from the same age to get an idea of the wiring layout switchgear and brake lights, you will also need to fit a battery if you want the lights to be effective.
TLTEL