feetdown

What he said Well done Stork

Take the reservoir cap off and using a screwdriver gently pry the pads apart to push the pistons in to the caliper, replace the reservoir cap and pump up you lever,

I used 2004 airbox, subframe rails,fender, and airfilter clamp, but have since bolted on a 2006 fender just to modernise the look, I believe any year up to 2008 will fit, phone Lampkins he will sort you out,

Plug gap 0.5 for BP5ES My clutch rattles something horrible, but as soon as I let the lever go all's well, never bothered me

First things first check you have the right plug in, Beta recommend the NGK BP7ES this is far to cold I run a BP5ES which is what Lampkin recommends if you really want to splash out BPR5ES but I have noticed no difference other than in price, Then sorting out your airfilter would be a high priority, the 2000-01 rev's have the filter on the side (which I assume is where yours is) this is fundamentally flawed its virtually impossible to seal and just fills up with muck and even in shallow streams manages to suck water through, Way back in 2004 I bought a airbox the subframe rails and rear fender to move it up top (the mount on your silencer will have to be moved and about a mm of material removed from the r/h subfame rail to clear the shock) Pricey! but well worth the expense. Can we have a bit more info on your top end rattle ie from cold or only when hot, maybe a topend rebuild is in order (it is 10 years old) rings, gudgen pin, circlips and gaskets And are you sure its not clutch rattle, you say its intermittent does it rattle only with the clutch pulled in, The kickback could be a worn spring on the idle gear, on top of the clutch side case right above the kickstart shaft there is a bolt check its tight (just nipped don't wrench it!) if it is tight, pull the case off remove the kickstart and gearshift and water pump hose Then lay the bike on its side to save draining the oil, you will have to release the sump plate I only remove the rear bolts and wedge it wide enough with a wooden wedge, remove the idler gear and study it to see how it works (Its simple enough but would take a fair bit to explain) and then just wind it on a touch to tension the spring a little more, You will have to replace the inner gasket, and depending on how flush you feel may want to take the opportunity to replace the gear/kickstart shaft seals and maybe over haul your water pump

The 2 bolts hold your flywheel weight on, Under that there are 4 crossheads that fix the magnets in place, the weight was an option world wide but standard in the uk, the softer power delivery with it fitted, suits our slippery muddy conditions, I like most of the lads I know run without it and I only bolt it on for extremely slippery days, without it the engine spools up a lot quicker giving more 'Punch' once you got your bike running experiment with & without it, I've had a few electrical problems recently (Last 6 months) I'm sure its just the age of the bike, It is 10 years old after all! and Strongly believe its you regulator I have only heard of triggers failing never the windings on our older stators, 35 odd sods for a VR or 80 odd notes for a rewind, Im sure Lampkins or maybe BVM will send you a VR on return. Flea Bay seems to be the cheapest for flywheel pullers

West Country Windings did me proud when they rewound my stator 80 odd notes 'kin quick turn around too, or a new stator from Lampkins

As a metal worker I hear blowtorch and think oxy-acetylene, So yes you would struggle to melt the pipe with a small Propane mixed gas plumbers flame, but until I could identify the packing (Looks a lot like wire wool on my 2000 rev3) I would be hesitant to burn it out with a flame.

The Midpipe is packed with wire wool and the pipe itself being ally will melt with no real warning so using a blow torch is a big NO. my method is to plug one end (I find a potato works well) and fill the pipe with fresh petrol leave it in a corner of the workshop and give it a good shake every time I walk past it (or when I remember to) leave it for a good week if you can, changing the fuel every couple of days, then flush it out with a degreaser, get the blowtorch on your front pipe you will be amazed how much carbon builds up in it

Have you got the lights, horn wired up? Are they working? If you have and they are working, I would imagine somewhere in the past the thermostat has packed up and the previous owner has hard wired the fan, This is a great tip to remember in the field but on the downside the fan isnt designed to run continually and will eventually overheat itself and burn out. So if you have got lights and there working I would put money on the fan being kaput, Whip it out and spin it up on a car battery, if it doesn't New fan time, if it does spin (and you haven't got lights) it will be your voltage regulator Lampkins will sort you with both As far as gearbox oil, Putoline Light Gear does it for me. No clutch grab and a nice smooth gearchange

Can anyone tell what are the advantages of Fat Bars? The only advantage I can see is not having a cross bar to bite down on when it all goes wrong!