hoggyf

When I bought my 4rt I was told it had a lifetime dog bone or something like that but needless to say it needs new bearings, is this possible or is it a new dog bone?

now sorted, pilot jet was slightly more gummed up than would first appear, borrowed a mates carb and with that to compare the jet had some hard deposit ,making it smaller than it should be. All running fine now, still with the floats upside down as well lol

I understand the floats are incorrect, but weirdly it worked perfectly fine with incorrect floats for the first year of ownership so isn't the cause of the current problem in my opinion unless I'm missing something?? Also the height of the float arm is correct so I'd have to alter that to turn the floats the correct way and surely as long as the correct amount of fuel is in the float bowl it makes no odds in my mind???

yes the floats are upside down but that was how it was when I bought the bike and it ran spot on for a year like that, also if the floats are put correctly it blocks the fuel flow completely

would they not go over time? i.e. why was it running fine before sitting or do they dry out for want of a better description?

My 315 was running fine a while ago but has been sat for about 6 months due to a house move so when I recently started it up it didn't want to tickover so thought I'd clean the carb, did as I usually do cleaning the jets and put it back together, I noticed from the facebook page that the floats were upside down so turned them so the flats were to the top but it won't flow fuel at all like that and as best as i can measure it the float height is set at 18.5mm (don't have the tool but using a pair of calipers it looks close) so put them curved side up. start it up and it will sit happy on choke but take the choke off and it will rev cleanly but as it drops back down to low revs it hunts and hunts lower and lower then cuts out, doesn't mtter where I set the tickover screw. I turned the tickover screw most of the way in and it sat reving a bit higher than normal but hunting a bit then it started to rev higher and higher and kill switch wouldn't work so panic stall in fourth to shut it off. any thoughts??

Sorry shuld have said the fan was working fine, cutting in and out etc, so obvious never remembered that bit, the silencer could be something as the exhaust isn't in the east condition, otherwise mixture etc not sure but seems to be running, sounding and pulling ok generally until it overheats . ideally we need another exhaust from a good bike to try and see what that does.

need some advice or help on this one, a friends 315 started over heating when we were last out, we were doing a long trail ride with long sections climbing and he was losing power and over heating so we topped the water up etc but this kept happening. When we had time we check the water pump, impellor looked fine and turns with the kick start and isn't loose or anything, cleaned the rad and flushed the system through, refilled with fresh coolant. Still overheats so next thought was head gasket, whipped the head off and gasket looks fine but we replaced it as a precaution, still overheats so the last thought was the rad cap spring being a little loose with age? He couldn't get a new one they're obsolete now apparently so got a used one form a trials breaker and no better so now we're kind of stuck. Nothing else on the bike has changed and when you start it, up until it overheats it feels fine, pulls well etc. Anyone any advice on what to check or try next?

I've got the chance of a Montesa 348 which looks fairly original and all there, not sure yet if its a runner or not and the plastics are quite faded with age obviously but whats it worth? Guys wanting £1000, which to me seems strong dependant on it running or not. Worth around £2000 - £2500 done up and tidy?? Just musing about buying it as a project to tidy up, don't need a twinshock really

Where's the egg on the face emoji?? On the wrong stroke oops, it is 28 yrs since I was taught lol all sorted now though and back running, at least I realised something wasn't right before starting!!

Thought I was on the comp stroke as piston was at top (checked through spark plug hole) and valves "rocking" ??? Why should I not back it up to get back the the T mark??

Decided to check the valves on my 4RT today and haven't done it on this before but have on previous bikes. All 4 valves were tight, couldn't get the feeler gauges under any of them so set it to TDC (checked Pistons was at top too, valves on the rock although its hard to tell on them) set the crank on the T mark and slackened the adjusters, wound the tappet out and reset to correct clearance then put all back together. When I tried to start it, it now has massive compression, it will turn over and can't hear anything untoward but doesn't want to start and the compression just "feels" wrong, so gave up for the day and to have a think. The only thing I could come up with last night at 10pm was that I hadn't reconnected the electric plug on the tank but can't see that making any difference. I must be missing something very obvious but any one any suggestions?

Did you go? Hope you enjoyed yourself, wasn't too difficult and would've been a good first trial.

If the kick start is on the right hand side it's had the mod done, on a lot of older Beta's you'll notice it's on the left,

Search put lakes grass track on Facebook, nice easy trials to get you started again.