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Thanks for the advice guys but I've tried almost all of the suggestions inc having no bolts in anything other than the swingarm. I'll have to try and get a 14mm bolt as I haven't got anything close enough or a taper drift with a short enough taper on it at 14mm, trip to the fasteners shop in the morning I think.

Tried it allways, bolts in, out, podger bar through, lever it forwards backwards etc, just wont alight for me.

The engine is in position, no skid plate, tried with all other bolts in place and out of place but just can't get the axle to line up because, in my view, there should be a taper on the shaft to alow to self-align through. I've pushed, pulled, barred it up down front and back and just cant get it to align. I can get a screwdriver through, not that that helps. Anyone else had this before????

97 JTX 250 Anyone know if its normal to have the main swingarm/engine axle (bolt) to be straight sided througout its length with no taper on it or to have nuts at both ends??? It took a while but I managed to get the axlw to slide through the frame, then swingarm then engine through to the other side but can't get it to line up to then go through the other side of the swingarm/frame, I can't get it to seat at the other side no matter how much I lever the engine or swingarm around, I'm sure all the other bikes I've worked on have a slight taper on the end of the shaft to get it to "centre". If anyones got any advice it'd be greatly received.

Gas Gas had sent a 2001 250 piston which is why it was 72.47mm but - I've re-measured it last night and I was measuring above the top ring originally (69.14mm) when apparently I should be measuring just above the skirt so.... I now get it to around 70.8mm which is close enough to the 97 250 piston so its been ordered and we'll see if it fits when it arrives.

Further info today, GGUK don't recognise my piston size, they say that its between a 200cc and 238cc piston size yet the barrell has 250cc written on it and they don't use the engine no. only the frame no. but i have a feeling the engine isn't the original. Got to ring them back tomorrow with the frame no. but I don't hold much hope.

I've just been trying to renew the rings on my 97 JTX 250 and found that I can't get rings on their own so spoke to GG uk who advised that its a full piston kit, mine has a B piston in it so on their advice ordered another B piston. It landed on Friday and I got ready to attack it today but found that the new piston is bigger that my old one - new one is 72.47mm when the old is 69.14mm anyone any ideas why these don't match???

Do you think this would quieten down my 97 JTX 250 as it has a real "crack" to the exhaust and is significantly louder than newer bikes which always makes me feel a bit anit-social.

No-one got any advice??? Anybody used different makes of piston kit other than from gas gas?

Anyone know where to get a set of rings for a JTX 250 97 on a B piston and its the 3 ring set up. Gas Gas Uk don't do them its a full piston kit and I really didn't want to spend

25T97 so by my new found reconning that means its a 97 250 ta very much!!

I'll have a look for that tonight when I get home. cheers

The engine in my 97 JTX250 was swapped a few years ago, if I remember what the bloke who sold it to me said, and I think it was a newer year motor that is in it. Gas Gas Uk said they don't keep records of engine numbers so can't tell me which model I've got so does anyone know how to find out? It has GG27 F11960570 as the engine number and its definately a 250cc I don't need anything special at the minute just na O ring for the head and a base gasket so I can check the piston and bore etc. but I would like to know what model engine it is so if I need anything specific in future. Any help appreciated. Cheers

Heres a suggestion (and i'll stand back ready for the reponse) Expert class - no stop Novice - stop allowed

I seem to think it was a weekend but I was only 8 or 9 so could well be wrong.

Just wondered if anyone can remember a trial being held in the late 70's in the "Glen" public park in dunfermline in the late 70's? It used the Burn (stream) running through the main part of the park and the park paths and a massive set of steps within the park. It was my first contact with trails and i guess I would be about 8 or 9, it seemed (in my memory) as though it was like a major trial equivalent to a national or international round but was probably just a clubby event. If anyone can remember it I wouldn't mind knowing the history of it. cheers

Just my 2pennorth but.... I've only been trialing for a year and have done probalby 8 or 10 trials under both rules, and I understand both sides of the argument. For myself, having just ridden under no-stop rules at my last trial, it was very disheartening to see the observor marking the score board while I was still 1/2 way through the section when I'd had a wobble and dabbed to gain control (aka stopped) it then made the rest of the section pointless attempting to complete it. Personally I think a time limit on the time stopped - say 5 secs - is the best way to go and as long as the observor is consistent througout it should suit everyone. Like someone else said the top boys have no relevance to me as they are so far away from my ability, but i do think they would be better to watch on a no-stop basis as the obstacles are so big now its generally clear or a 5.

Nobody got any suggestions??

Hi just wondered if anybody knows of any training days going on in the North of England, I would love to get some decent teaching to bring me on and just for the fun of it. Doesn't have to be a "big name" even if its just a club training session, I've been trialling for about 18months but don't get out often enough and practice just doens't happen really. any help appreciated. Thanks

He's using techniques I'll never be able to learn no matter how easy he makes it look.

Theres a wheel builder - Roy Thursby 01642 612784 in Stockton on Tees or try Hagon 0208 502 6222, theyre in Essex but do carriers etc, they would be able to either repair it or replace the rim i would think. Worth a couple of phone calls.

Finally got time to take it and do a plug chop with this as the result Which I think looks a little rich? would you agree? If it is rich how would this effect the pick up off tickover, it also felt a little bit weak at the top of the rev range but that could just have been me over revving it a little?? Any advice greatly received!

like before, didn't know the guy but what a sad thing to happen, thoughts are with his family.

Yeh chinese copy of a C50, its a 125 and a cheap way of getting my lad into bikes and out riding (also known now as me going practicing while he bumbles around) I'll try the adjustments you suggest Dombike but doing 15-20sec full throttle's gonna be a problem anywhere I ride, unless its a sneaky dart along the back road but i don't fancy that much, knowing my luck I'd get lifted.

Hi 1st off this isn't on a trials bike but I do compete on a GasGas and trials guys seem to be a bit more clued in on engines than the general biking fraternity so heres my problem. I've just replaced the engine on my sons pitbike with a brand new unit re-using the old carb and exhaust, engine is the same type but not same make so may have differnet spec cams, valves etc. The old engine ran fine with this carb and the carb is clean. When you blip the throttle wide open from tickover it bogs down and trys to stall but if you open the throttle a bit more gentley it'll rev quite nicely. Riding wise it pulls fine as you don't really go from zero to full open but the plug is a bit sooty, though thats just from tickover and reving in neutral (can't do a plug chop in the street really). It feels to me that it's getting too much air as though when you open the slide fully from tickover its just getting too much. Carb rubbers are new with the engine so should be ok. I'm happy to clean carbs out etc but when it gets into the "tuning" side of it i.e. changing jets, adjusting needles etc I just don't really know what I'm doing. any advice?