bob

Hi, I think you can get the ones you have on at the moment coated if you really wanted to. But it isn't a cheap option unless they needed doing anyway. The black coating is just there as a low st'iction surface so they feel a bit smoother. Bob

Hi, I've definitely read about this on trials central previously in the forum. I seem to recall that it is often from the mains, although it could be a number of things. Can you 'jiggle' the flywheel at all? Bob

Hi, We've just had a similar problem on an 05. We are at the stage of splitting the cases. I am told that once the barrel is off and the reed valves etc the cases will split very easily, retaining all the gear boxy bits in the clutch side of the gearbox. So in theory you won't have to remove the clutch and all the bits in there. However if I were you then removing the clutch would be my first port of call to see if it is just a problem in there because that is an easy fix (although your symptoms don;t sound like a problem in this area of the engine). Have a look inside and see what you find, you'll need a flywheel puller first, and access to an air wrench makes things a lot easier, particularly for the clutch where there seems to be no way of holding it, the flywheel can be held using a couple of bits of metal bar screwed together like a pair of scissors and then bolting them through the holes in the flywheel, but not too far or you'll damage the stator. Bob

Ok, Thanks, I reckon all will be well then, the reeds do close if you try to suck through them, and leakage on the piston didn't seem to be massive, and the bike hasn't been run in about six weeks, so I guess once there is a splash of fresh oil on the lower rings they will seal slightly better anyway. Thanks, Bob

While I'm here I'd also like to ask about leak past the piston, I was looking in through the inlet to the crank and slowly turning the engine over by hand, and if I apply a constant pressure to the kick start then I can hear air seeping past the piston, is this right?? How good a fit should my piston rings be? Thanks, perhaps I'm looking into this a bit much, but I'm at a point where doing a top end rebuild would be easywith other bits of the bike in pieces. Ta.

Hi, Had mine out a while ago, and took my mates out on Saturday, it is just the bolt with a washer and a nut on the end, so it will bash through. Bear in mind it isn't the toughest material though when you bash it through, and you'll probably find that jiggling with the swinging arm and maybe even loosening off the engine mountings at the back will give it a bit more movement if it is really tough to come out. Best of Luck, Bob

Hi, I was just tinkering with the bike today and thought I'd pop the reeds out to see how they were looking. I'm using the standard reeds and now the block is out it is apparent that there is a small gap underneath two of the reed tips (the two upper ones), maybe only half a millimeter or so, but there is definitely a gap. So my questions are; 1. What gap (if any) is acceptable, as obviously one the bike is running they might be pushed closed anyway? 2. Can I turn the reeds over so that if they are bent then they are bent in a more favorable direction? I do notice that they aren;t entirely symmetrical, one has a rounded corner and the other a flat on the corner. 3. Would a strip down, clean and rebuild do anything to improve it do you think? 4. Should I just put boyseen reeds in, given I am a student with slightly less money than I'd like? Thanks in anticipation of your replies. Bob

Hiya, As I understand it suspension components are in most circumstances rather common components. Try to track down your nearest suspension specialist, they will often have either a source for Paoli parts or maybe even be able to source non-genuine parts which will do the job. Bob

In my experience the carb overflow is the usual cause for loss of fuel, not the atmospheric tubes which can lose you some fuel if the bike is thrown about a bit, and in occasion may set up a siphon effect, more often than not though I have found that fuel just pees out of the overflow on the float chamber, what with the carb being tilted forward steeply already and the float heights being a bit too high from new, it is a fine balance to get the float level low enough to stop the overflowing but not so low as to cause fuel starvation. I have adjusted the float height alone on both my betas and solved the fuel overflow issues, I also find that removing the tube on the carb which leads away from the overflow tang means it can't siphon, haven't had any problems with muck getting in, although water can when the bike is washed I clean the float bowl out anyway. Just my experiences, Bob

http://www.betatrialuk.com/content/view/68/51/ Try the UK beta website, the info on the smaller bikes doesn't make a lot of sense to me, not being familiar with the model variants. As a rule drop the oil out and have a look at how much comes out to see about how much should do in. Does the rev50 have a oil level viewing window like the rev3s?

yep, and to refill a plug which looks the same as the drain plug on the LHS of the engine just above the water pump.

If you have only replaced the clutch cover then you shouldn't need to bleed it, if you have had the system apart then you will. That said bleeding it won't do it any harm, the procedure is much the same as bleeding the front brake, have a search on the forums for any tips, brake bleeding is quite a common thread. Bob

If the bike is overheating then you will notice that it will pink and knock a lot, it might feel like it is starting to bog down when you open the throttle. Providing that air can freely pass through the rad then I shouldn't have thought that it is overheating, the fact that the fan is running a lot suggests good circulation of coolant to supply heat to the thermostat. I would put my money on a sensitive thermostat, perhaps worth checking your carburation, too lean and it will run hot as well, although that is the last point of call. Good luck, Bob

WOAH! don't fill it up to the top, if you are on a rev3 then warm the engine up, remove the drain plug which is accessed through a hole in the bash plate, let the oil drain out, then replace the plug. Remove the filler plug, allow one just above the water pump on the LHS of the bike if I remember correctly and pour in 500ml of oil. The manual reccomends 550ml but this is after a gearbox rebuild, so doesn't account for any oil stuck to gears or in the clutch etc. Don't fill it to the top, you should be able to see the oil level somewhere in the little window when the bike is on level ground. Bob

if the fan is definitely cutting in and out then it is probably a faulty thermostat, if the fan runs right from a cold start then somebody may have wired it on permanently as a workaround for a faulty thermostat. I dont think the rad cap would be the problem, providing that it isn't losing water from it. 16 degrees C is quite warm though, and you would expect the fan to run regularly under these conditions, depends how you ride the bike too, how fast and at what rpm etc. Bob