bob

Hi, I think you can get the ones you have on at the moment coated if you really wanted to. But it isn't a cheap option unless they needed doing anyway. The black coating is just there as a low st'iction surface so they feel a bit smoother. Bob

Hi, I've definitely read about this on trials central previously in the forum. I seem to recall that it is often from the mains, although it could be a number of things. Can you 'jiggle' the flywheel at all? Bob

Hi, We've just had a similar problem on an 05. We are at the stage of splitting the cases. I am told that once the barrel is off and the reed valves etc the cases will split very easily, retaining all the gear boxy bits in the clutch side of the gearbox. So in theory you won't have to remove the clutch and all the bits in there. However if I were you then removing the clutch would be my first port of call to see if it is just a problem in there because that is an easy fix (although your symptoms don;t sound like a problem in this area of the engine). Have a look inside and see what you find, you'll need a flywheel puller first, and access to an air wrench makes things a lot easier, particularly for the clutch where there seems to be no way of holding it, the flywheel can be held using a couple of bits of metal bar screwed together like a pair of scissors and then bolting them through the holes in the flywheel, but not too far or you'll damage the stator. Bob

Ok, Thanks, I reckon all will be well then, the reeds do close if you try to suck through them, and leakage on the piston didn't seem to be massive, and the bike hasn't been run in about six weeks, so I guess once there is a splash of fresh oil on the lower rings they will seal slightly better anyway. Thanks, Bob

While I'm here I'd also like to ask about leak past the piston, I was looking in through the inlet to the crank and slowly turning the engine over by hand, and if I apply a constant pressure to the kick start then I can hear air seeping past the piston, is this right?? How good a fit should my piston rings be? Thanks, perhaps I'm looking into this a bit much, but I'm at a point where doing a top end rebuild would be easywith other bits of the bike in pieces. Ta.

Hi, Had mine out a while ago, and took my mates out on Saturday, it is just the bolt with a washer and a nut on the end, so it will bash through. Bear in mind it isn't the toughest material though when you bash it through, and you'll probably find that jiggling with the swinging arm and maybe even loosening off the engine mountings at the back will give it a bit more movement if it is really tough to come out. Best of Luck, Bob

Hi, I was just tinkering with the bike today and thought I'd pop the reeds out to see how they were looking. I'm using the standard reeds and now the block is out it is apparent that there is a small gap underneath two of the reed tips (the two upper ones), maybe only half a millimeter or so, but there is definitely a gap. So my questions are; 1. What gap (if any) is acceptable, as obviously one the bike is running they might be pushed closed anyway? 2. Can I turn the reeds over so that if they are bent then they are bent in a more favorable direction? I do notice that they aren;t entirely symmetrical, one has a rounded corner and the other a flat on the corner. 3. Would a strip down, clean and rebuild do anything to improve it do you think? 4. Should I just put boyseen reeds in, given I am a student with slightly less money than I'd like? Thanks in anticipation of your replies. Bob

Hiya, As I understand it suspension components are in most circumstances rather common components. Try to track down your nearest suspension specialist, they will often have either a source for Paoli parts or maybe even be able to source non-genuine parts which will do the job. Bob

In my experience the carb overflow is the usual cause for loss of fuel, not the atmospheric tubes which can lose you some fuel if the bike is thrown about a bit, and in occasion may set up a siphon effect, more often than not though I have found that fuel just pees out of the overflow on the float chamber, what with the carb being tilted forward steeply already and the float heights being a bit too high from new, it is a fine balance to get the float level low enough to stop the overflowing but not so low as to cause fuel starvation. I have adjusted the float height alone on both my betas and solved the fuel overflow issues, I also find that removing the tube on the carb which leads away from the overflow tang means it can't siphon, haven't had any problems with muck getting in, although water can when the bike is washed I clean the float bowl out anyway. Just my experiences, Bob

http://www.betatrialuk.com/content/view/68/51/ Try the UK beta website, the info on the smaller bikes doesn't make a lot of sense to me, not being familiar with the model variants. As a rule drop the oil out and have a look at how much comes out to see about how much should do in. Does the rev50 have a oil level viewing window like the rev3s?

yep, and to refill a plug which looks the same as the drain plug on the LHS of the engine just above the water pump.

If you have only replaced the clutch cover then you shouldn't need to bleed it, if you have had the system apart then you will. That said bleeding it won't do it any harm, the procedure is much the same as bleeding the front brake, have a search on the forums for any tips, brake bleeding is quite a common thread. Bob

If the bike is overheating then you will notice that it will pink and knock a lot, it might feel like it is starting to bog down when you open the throttle. Providing that air can freely pass through the rad then I shouldn't have thought that it is overheating, the fact that the fan is running a lot suggests good circulation of coolant to supply heat to the thermostat. I would put my money on a sensitive thermostat, perhaps worth checking your carburation, too lean and it will run hot as well, although that is the last point of call. Good luck, Bob

WOAH! don't fill it up to the top, if you are on a rev3 then warm the engine up, remove the drain plug which is accessed through a hole in the bash plate, let the oil drain out, then replace the plug. Remove the filler plug, allow one just above the water pump on the LHS of the bike if I remember correctly and pour in 500ml of oil. The manual reccomends 550ml but this is after a gearbox rebuild, so doesn't account for any oil stuck to gears or in the clutch etc. Don't fill it to the top, you should be able to see the oil level somewhere in the little window when the bike is on level ground. Bob

if the fan is definitely cutting in and out then it is probably a faulty thermostat, if the fan runs right from a cold start then somebody may have wired it on permanently as a workaround for a faulty thermostat. I dont think the rad cap would be the problem, providing that it isn't losing water from it. 16 degrees C is quite warm though, and you would expect the fan to run regularly under these conditions, depends how you ride the bike too, how fast and at what rpm etc. Bob

If you suspect that as the problem, then it will probably need either replacing, or you could have it rewound. There is a company called west country windings which used to advertise in TMX and may well still do, I believe that they have the triggers, and may be able to supply you with one to try out before you spend the money on a full rewind, they seem pretty knowledgeable when it comes to beta stators. I would be tempted to contact lampkins and ask for a stator to try out, easiest way by far, although not the cheapest. Bob

Hiya, The black boxes (i believe) are effectively triggers which signal the CDI to fire the spark plug. Trashing that may make the bike run erratically or not at all, I don't really know. There does look to be some damage to the forward coil, unforturnately with electronics a problem may not be particularly evident from a visual inspection, even if the thing is absolutely shafted. If you are in the UK then contact lampkins for a replacement part to try out on the bike, you can always return it if needs be provided that you explain the issue to them in the first place. Bob

Sorry, forgot about that, the new carb has a different float setup to the previous, there are recommended settings for both if you look about these forums. Bob

The Beta Stator topic has been goin on for a long time. There are two modes of failure. Firstly, the thing just packs up for whatever reason, the bike will not run at all, or will run intermittently. This issue seems to have been sorted out. The second mode of failure is when the triggers get corroded and fail, the bike runs poorly and won't rev out. From what I have heard this problem can be in most cases avoided by keeping the flywheel area dry between trials (it does mention this in the handbook I believe) and drilling a hole in the flywheel cover if you fancy that too. Other than these two problems, and the unlucky few with the dodgy casings the beta is a really solidly build and well designed bike. CDI units pack up on all bikes, just with vibration apparently. I have been riding my 06 250 Beta for over a year now, and the only parts I have needed to buy for it were grips and fork seals, and the bike is still in mint condition. One of the beautiful things about the beta is that if you take a little time to maintain it, it is so easy to maintain, any part can be easily removed within 15 mins if you know what you are doing, other branks can be much harder work since everything is concealed, or dome headed studs are used which round off easily etc. Sorry if I have ranted, but as far as I can see, the only fault with the beta is the electrics, which is a serious fault, but one worth putting up with and it easily managed. Bob

if you look on the underside of the swinging arm where the shark fin should be then it should be quite apparent if there is a fixing point, it is a tab with two tapped holes, approximate 50mm x 10mm 2 2mm in size. If there isn't one there then the shark fin won't fit without any modification. Hope that answers your question. Bob

I presume you are talking about the bike cutting out when it is at extreme downhill angles? Have you done the proper float height setup as described on R2WTrials' website? I had the same problem on my previous two bikes, but the carb setup sorted it, it is probably just the bike flooding. Also worth trying may be the carb extensions available from beta dealers if you have running problems after doing the mod. Tinkering is the best policy. Bob

I use bar ends, basically because I accidentally bought grips with holes already left in the end and so I needed something to plug the hole, they seem a useful bit of kit, easy to fit, saves grips and money in the long run. I was gonna vote but the poll seems quite heavy on the 'bar ends aren't much good' side, with a bit on the yes bar ends are brilliant side. I'm somewhere in between. Bob

Try lying the bike on its side and leaving some penetrating oil to run in, take the back wheel and shock out to take any weight off the back end. Then with the bike on its side and suitable supported try using a wooden drift or similar and a BFH to tap it out. Best of luck, Bob

Hiya, I had a 2003 200 in the past, and I would agree that it is significantly less powerful than the 250, but it does have the benefit of being a slightly revvier engine. The bike may not set off in fourth, but it should pull it no problemprovided you have a bit of speed to keep the engine running smoothly. The bike certainaly shouldn't be running out of go before you've even reached fifth or sixth. You should be able to use any gear riding between sections, provided that it matches your speed. Bob

That sounds like a load of rubbish if I'm honest, changing the rings after 4 hours running, how does anybody ever stand a chance of reaching the end of the scottish, might even struggle to ride two club trials without a strip down if that was the case! After 4 hours is it even bedded in? The majority of bikes will be ridden for two maybe more years with no attention, the riding hours varies, but your suggestions seem a little excessive. Even the handbook, which is written to cover the manufacturers back is much slacker than that. Not trying to be abusive, just thought that seemed ridiculous. Bob EDIT: Oh and the scorpa is the most reliable, but if you want a reliable bike then look after any bike properly and you will be just unlucky if it breaks down.