bob

Hi, Most people I know just use a good fuel like shell optimax or BP Ultimate. If the carb and spark plug are right then the bike should run fine on this, unless the engine is coked up in which case changing fuel will not improve much untill it has been cleaned out or run at WOT to clear it out . I would stick with just using good fuel unless you find the knocking to be a major annoyance. Most pre-ignition knocks can be sorted by adjusting the carb or timing. Bob

Because I can, and if I am gonna fit some bling, it would have to be bling that winds people up, otherwise what's the point Bob (I'm not a chav by the way)

oh wow, Neons on the bottom of the tank and at the front tucked behind the bashplate are the way forward! If I can get motivated I might do that and run them off a permanent feed from the headlights! How about green neons and red wheels matching the mudguard?!

Hiya, If you are in the north east then there are a few dealers around, but two strokes are so simple you can probably do most repairs at home, I don't know much about reboring since the barrels are nikasil coated, but all parts are available n=for next day delivery from JLI in Silsden (Leeds). It depends how bad the knock is, but I seem to remember that when I had an 03 200 being told that a tapping was quite common because of a bush used in the top end to make the 250 con-rod fit. Bob

The Rev3 torques up to about 140 Nm. I imagine that this is the same as on the techno which has a comparable ignition system. bob

Hiya, I'm pretty sure that it will stop when it reaches fully soft. The shock should be easy to remove with the wheel in since once the lower bolt is undone the wheel can be swung out of the way to make room. Bob

I set my bike up recently as per the handbook, and it feels like a completely different bike. I am only very light at 9 stone, but the handbook seemed to give a good indication of where everything should be set. I also noticed that much of the way the bike felt which appeared to be suspension settings was in fact as much to do with handlebar positioning, so perhaps that is one thing to check whilst you are tinkering. Betas definitely ride well with little preload and medium damping, you'll appreciate the added grip in the mud. Bob

Hiya, It is possible that it could be the CDI, it is difficult to give a solution to an unusual noise when you haven't actually heard it. I had stator problems with a previous rev3, and by asking very nicely I managed to get a stator and CDI unit to try on my bike and return whatever was not needed (Did this through the UK importer JLI). I would suggest that you check the air intake thoroughly, and following that try adjusting the idle mixture screw to see if that changes anything. You can always turn it back to where it was before provided you remember how many turns you have given it either way. Failing that then try contating your local dealer or importer and see if you could buy some parts to test on your bike and return whatever wasn't needed. Good Luck, Bob

I think a bit of slack is normal, at least I have had a bit in both my Betas, if the slack is lateral on the shaft though then you may be able to remedy your problem with a spacer washer beside the front sprocket. I'll have a look at my bike some time and see what the gap is like. Good luck, mine knocks on the back of the peg bracket if I have the link in the wrong way round. Bob

Hiya, I asked about this a week ago or so, how is the spring removed on the paioli shock on the beta?? Mine looks a bit scratty and I was thinking about getting it coated. Any help would be appreciated. Many Thanks, Bob

Hiya, I was trying to setup my suspension, got the front preload and damping setup as per the book for my weight and it feels good, the lockrings on the rear were proving difficult, so I thought I'd take it off for a good cleap up. The shock looks a bit scraggy with my boot rubbing against it, so I was considering getting it coated again. Is it possible to remove the spring from the shock on the 06 rev3? I guess it must be because I know others have put heavier springs in. How do you get either end off the chock though? Thanks in advance for any help. Bob

Cheers, I've given it a polish and I think it looks really good. Didn't like it with half of the laquer worn through and patchy. It came off very easily. We thought it looked more like it was made of stainless. Thanks, Bob

Hiya, Last night after washing my bike I decided that my header pipe looked a bit bland in that browny colour, so I thought I might have a go at polishing it up a little, I probably wouldn't have bothered but there are a couple of tiny specs of rust forming on it and where my trousers have been rubbing it is a shiny silver. Anyway, once in the house it became apparent that it has perhaps been lacquered with something which rubs off rather easily, or is the metal just coloured from welding or something?? Does anybody know what the exhaust is coated with? Could I polish it up and then coat it with some sort of clear laquer? If so then what? Thanks a lot, Bob

Hiya, The airbox lid is red/orange. There are two stickers on it, a larger one which goes towards the front of the bike, which has extends up to the beta logo in the middle of the airbox lid. at the top is a small black triangle with a hole cut out of it for access to the lid retaining screw. Bob

That ruins my theory then, unless the holes aren't right at the top. God knows what it does to help then

Yeah, it is a bit like put a glass in water, so it fills up, then turn it upside down so it is full of water, you'll be able to lift it right out of the water to the rim before the water gushes out and replenished with air. The same happens in that little up turned brass cup, once fuel is in there it won't leave until air can flow down the main jet, in which case the engine will be stopped and the fuel level will rise immediately anyhow. Bob

Thanks, I would be tempted to get a lst minute entry, but if there is road work involved then unfortunately it is a bit of a no-go. Thanks though anyway. Maybe next year when I've passed my test. I know that a blind eye is normally turned to trials riders on the roads, and the roads are reasonably quiet (except the main toad through) but I'd rather not risk it. Cheers, Bob

Hiya, I've not been able to ride in about three months, but I have heard that there is a Bill Pye (sorry if I spelt that wrongly) organised trial this weekend somewhere near Chop-Gate on the Helmsley-> Stoksley road. I'd like to attend this trial, what club is associated with this event, do I need to be a member, where exactly is this trial, can I just turn up and ride, what is the difficulty level like? Cheers, Bob

Yep, The kill switch should connect to the black wire out of the stator, and the other end onto the uppermost bolt on the coil. The lighting wiring should be pretty simple really, I pulled mine off and it was pretty straight forward. there wasn't as much as I had expected. I can't remember if I had to put a link in somewhere to the fan or such like. Try getting a wiring diagram, highlight what you are taking off (in appropriate colours) and all will become clear. Bob

Re-tighten to about 140 Nm, you'll probably find that to be about as tight as you can hold it, depending on the length of the handles on your tools. Not sure about the flywheel puller, try JLI (beta UK) Bob

You might need to loosen the rad to get the stator off if the wire is routed behind the down section of the frame from the headstock. Although looking back I think I removed the down section aswell. Access the the CDIshouldn't be impossible, just awkward, are you removing the plastic cover round the tank cap to get access from there? I can't remember if it connects to the coil or not. The CDI should be the simple thing to change and is least likely to get damaged when replacing in my eyes. Good luck, see you up at the camp some time maybe. Bob

West Country Windings can re-wind your stator. They had to stop doing six coil ones because they couldn't source the cores. (pre 2003 and a few in 2003) They are still in the UK I believe. A company called Bradford Electrics? is the company which is often referred to when talking about stators, they are in Spain. West Country Windings have an Ad in TMX most weeks I think, they were reccomended by a friend who used them several years ago.

Hiya, I know that suspension is a topic often talked about, but I just can't find a straight answer to the problems I'm having. The forks on my 06 are leaking on both sides, I understand that the fork seals were replaced relatively recently, but I think that the coating on the stanchions may need redoing, not sure it it matters too much to be honest, it isn't scored, just wearing. But, anyway, could anybody give me a brief guide to stripping completely the forks and rebuilding them, how much work is it, will I be able to do it with basic tools? No need for too much detail, I expect that when it comes to it common sense will apply itself, but I am a little unsure of where to start. I am considering sending them off to be done properly. Thanks, Bob

I don't know how much spare time you have, but it is often with the back brake in particular to just strip the whole thing back and rebuild it with new seals/pistons if it needs them, it is surprising what you might find, and to be honest takes about as long to rebuild the whole thing as it does to try and find the problem. My experiences anyway. Bob

I believe so, I've never been in there on my 200, but I gather that the con-rod is the same, there is a bush in the little end on a 200. That said, it might not run well, the 200 carried on using a different stator for a while, I'm not sure if this is still the case. I think your best bet is to ring your importer. Bob