carl ekblom

I dont know about your clutch But I always check for grooves in clutch hub and clutch basket Its essential not to have any at all.. Oil should be as thin as possible, Test ELF HTX 740 (or similar) and feel the diiference (no grooves and oil). You may have to replace parts to get groove free

The volumes needed are a bit exaggerated concerning the 0,6/0,3 rule. I would say: As long a internals are wet it will lubricate

I use HTX740 oil in both gearbox and clutch. I am confident it is very good. Thicker oil does not improve the gearbox or clutch life

WARNING! Be aware they have different polarities and are not interchangable. You can not mix them without big problems.

In fact I think Classic Twinshock fits tall riders better then modern. Find correct handlebars to suit you. Risers can be dangerous. You may also change footpeg position for better stands and also fit modern footpegs. Original Bultaco are outdated. Cut the original attachments and weld on new. We all do.

I agree with Lemur. But why not test thin gearbox oil as ELF HTX740 all-around (in clutch and gearbox).HX740 recommended by Honda/Montesa in their cota 4-strokes. It is quite expensive, so try to get a good deal. On the happy side is not much is needed.

Generally 40mm offset sounds pretty normal for pre-65 parallel yokes, but 100mm trail is much . Bike will be stable but also can be difficult to turn Also depends of type of fork you use. Some forks have offset wheel spindle that increase total offset e.g. Royal Enfield and decrease trail Make sure you don´t need forward raked yokes to decrease trail. People usually decrease steering beam angle to decrease trail. I can check later what I did for a Bamford framed G80. The owner was very happy with the new geometry. He use Ceriani (1961 type) forks

venhill.co.uk have adjusters that might fit

You need a flywheel puller to extract the flywheel You may need an impact gun, for the central bolt, at the extractor. Be careful not to destroy the threads, I think the risk is low, when disassembly. You may need something between the crankshaft threads and central bult

Some models of GasGas use mineral oil. Consult the manual (or importer) and use the same oil, or at least the same type of oil. By the way, Dot4 is used on a lot of trials bikes.

There MUST be some, we can call it "endfloat". Normal is 0.25-0.5 mm to compensate for heat variations etc. It does not make any harm at all.

Never happy with the Crapioli forks but they can be improved. Ohlins is a much better rear shock then Sachs Think I got mine from Splatshop Be aware that there is no standard for fork oils i e one brand 10w might be thinner then 5W of another brand or vice versa

I don´t know about Fantic settings but normal is to close fuel screw lightly and then open until best idle. I then open fuel screw about 1/8-1/4 of a turn extra for trials use. You must test which setting is the best for you and count the turns. Needle notches usually are counted from top of needle. I would say that 3rd notch is no 3 from top. All settings should be documented. A good place is a laptop. Hope this is of any help

Have used tubeliss last years at my Bultaco, together with X11 and 803GP. Little more complicated to mount but saves a lot of trouble. Think it is a good product. No inner tube is needed.

It is normal that the leg without damping to be quicker then the leg with damping. How much? It´s impossible to say. Depending on your settings, oil and forks. Trials bikes suspension is not sophisticated compared to moto-x bikes.