stpauls

Your clutch should be a one finger pull.

I suspect it is the carburettor. It is a Mikuni BS25. 1. I think you need to increase the size of the pilot jet to make it easier to start. The slow/pilot jet is unusual and not listed anywhere. It took me ages to identify a similar pilot jet. The standard jet is 17.5. This is the same hole size as a 35 in these! I fitted a 40 which works much better. They are here: 12xCopper Carburetor Slow Pilot Jet Assembly for PZ19 PB16/18/20 Carb | eBay 2. Also, the float valve doesn't shut off the fuel properly (especially when not on level ground!!!) resulting in overflow and flooding. This is due to the float valve being slighly too short and/or the tang on the float arm offering little scope for adjustment. After MUCH experimenting with bending the (fragile) float tang, I finally solved it by fitting a slightly longer float valve from a Honda VALVE SET,FLOAT for TL125S ENGLAND - order at CMSNL ( I had a few old carbs in the shed and was able to compare them first). 3. If you have been riding through water then the wires to the electric start are very exposed to any water. Also, many of the bike's electrics are situated low down, by the clutch actuator arm - not the best position for electrics. Do not cut 5mm off the overflow tube, as recommended by Scorpa for the OLD TY 125s, as they use a completely DIFFERENT carburettor. Also the

Update: Out of interest I bought a 163cc bigger bore kit. This is the same as is used on the old Scorpa TY 200. This needed a COMPLETE strip down of the engine, to enable the crank cases to be bored out to accommodate the bigger cylinder sleeve. It was quite straight foward. The only issue that I had was that the two tangs on the bottom of the piston had to be 50% removed so as not to touch the crank shaft balancer. I also needed an even thicker base gasket than that provided, to reduce compression, so I made an additional one out of 1mm aluminium. Ridden in several trials since completed. No issues. More pulling power in the lower rev range.

Administrators: Is this the correct place to be selling bits for bikes? If so then I have an old trials tire for sale. No good for anything but landfill. Maybe someone wants to downgrade? £100 ono.

Additionally, 1. Check the timing. 2. If a carburettor heat shroud is not fitted then buy or make one.

Actually it's 163cc. You can't go any larger on these motors without boring into the cam chain tunnel. With the 163cc barrel fitted, you only have about 3 mm of metal left.

Possibilities: Most Trials riders use Galfer Red pads: GALFER RED TRIALS BIKE FRONT BRAKE PADS. BETA, GAS GAS, SHERCO, MONTESA, SCORPA. | eBay 3 year old bike? I assume the brake fluid has been replaced recently? 1. Weeping brake piston seals. Have you lost any brake fluid from the brake reservoir? 2. Weeping fork seals. The oil will run down the fork leg and contaminate the brake disc. It may be hard to see without close inspection. a: Try cleaning the fork seal using a Seal Mate tool. b: New fork seals. 3. You have somehow contaminated the disc with WD40, polish, grease etc.

On my last pair of trials pants I got The Boss to sew a felt patch on the inside of the right leg, by the knee. This stopped the melting. Surprised that the trials pant manufacturers don't do this.

Can't find it. Error message.

Sheng Way carb fitted to a TLR. Which way to turn the mixture screw to make it run leaner? Thanks

The Jianshe/Yamaha 125 engine is a direct copy of the Yamaha YBR / TTR 125 engine - the same as fitted to yours. (Jianshe is 50% owned by Yamaha). Most/all the parts are interchangable. They are fitted to the new Sherco and Scorpa TY 125 4t. Also fitted to the new AJS 125 and many others too. You will need to get a small engineering company to make you a 39.5mm aluminium bung with a rubber o-ring made to seal up the starter motor hole (pull the starter motor to see what's needed). (mine cost me £20 a couple of years ago). Also remove the starter motor dog gear mechanism and the large gear wheel on the back of the flywheel. Leezy will sell you a big bore kit for it (e.bay). . Search Facebook For Sale and e.bay Or, buy a new one: Jianshe JS125-6C (china-parts.co.uk)

Boots for big calves? Something like this perhaps?

A 300cc bike is for Experts. Get yourself a 250 and learn how to ride Trials properly,

Apparently some dishonest people have use an electric grinder to remove the words "for offroad use only" from the side of their tires.

A Montesa 4RT is perhaps not the best choice for a Novice.

How much does a throttle cost? (£20, UK). Don't be a lazy tight-a*se! Buy one and try it for yourself. See what it does for you - experiment.

Lets hope it's just more ACU incompetence!

Entered a trial via the ACU portal. Now, at least a week later it says that my entry is not valid, due to my not having a rider number. Never been asked for this before. Spent ages on the website, trying to discover how to do this, but with no luck. Anyone know how to do this?

Entered a trial via the ACU portal. Now, at least a week later it says that my entry is not valid, due to my not having a rider number. Never been asked for this before. Spent ages on the website, trying to discover how to do this, but with no luck. Anyone know how to do this?

Problems: 1. Dissolves tank liners, including Kreem and Flowliner. 2. Dissolves O rings in fuel lines. 3. Corrodes aluminium alloys in carburettors.

This is what the information says - "Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). Legislation requires us to place these E5 labels on pumps that dispense unleaded petrol with ‘up to 5% ethanol’, including those that contain no ethanol, which is why we display them on our Synergy Supreme+ 99 pumps." However, I believe this information may be out of date?

Esso Synergy 99 used to be ethanol free. However, I understand that this may not now be the case. Anyone know? Synergy Fuels | Esso

I put an S3 low compression head and a flywheel weight on a 2017 Sherco 250. It didn't really make much difference! I also fitted a smaller engine sprocket. That slowed it down a bit, although I later went back to the stock size. On reflection it was probably just getting used to riding that particular bike that made the biggest difference, rather than the modifications.

Yamaha engined Scorpa/Sherco = Sherco/Scorpa TY 125F.

You take the plug out and kick the engine over. There is a spark. You replace the plug and kick it over repeatedly, but it won't run: Look at the green ignition wire very carefully. It connects to a small bolt on the points via a small brass fork terminal. If that fork terminal is not fitted squarely onto the points connector, then it may/will arc across to the ignition carry plate, or even to the points cover when the spark plug is under compression, in the engine. If the fork terminal is placed on the outside, under the bolt's head, then it WILL arc across to the points cover, when under compression. Put the bike in a dark place - shed or garage. Turn the lights off. Take the ignition cover off. Get someone to kick the engine over while you look closely at the points. The point's contacts may/may not/sometimes spark. Disregard that. See if you can spot a spark elsewhere. That will be your problem.