The original footrests are pretty pathetic, aren't they?
I use Raceline footrests, from www.motomerlin.co.uk. They are grippy and wide like other modern footrests but fit the single fitting on the Montesa frame - other footrests require the usual U-shaped bracket. I just had to grind the back edge a touch so the footrests sit horizontally. As I recall I used the original Montesa springs.
With some more modification it might even be possible to fit them down and back a bit as per the modern trend by mounting them behind, rather than over, the standard fitting on the frame.
Mine's a 42 I think (not at home to check at the moment). Wouldn't really want to go to a larger rear to lower gearing due to clearance issue on rocks, hence 9t on the front.
9 tooth on the front was the recommended alteration to make back in the day, and it's what I use now. In motion Trials do this item but of course it means pulling the old sprocket off its taper - can be difficult! I got mine off using a Pitman puller (about £10 on eBay) which I had to grind away slightly to fit behind the sprocket. Be careful not to stand directly behind the puller as you wind up the tension -when it finally lets go it can fly across the garage at high speed! Of course a bit of heat and tapping the end of the puller can help release the blighter.
There's Road and Trail in Barnsley (or is that the same place as B&B?),Splatshop in Chesterfield and Cloburn at Helmsley. Also Inch Perfect in Lancashire have a good reputation. All have websites if you do a google search. I find that dealers like this tend to have bikes up to about three/four years old, any older (therefore cheaper) and it tends to be an eBay or Gumtree search.
Stripping the forks should be fairly straightforward. You'll have to unscrew the allen bolt in the bottom end of each slider, holding the internals to stop them spinning as you turn the bolt. Be sure to fully unweight the front end when you unscrew the fork caps (bike on a box or stand with wheel off the ground) as they have very fine threads which can get damaged if there is much pressure on them from the fork springs just before they come to the end of the thread.
Seems to be a brilliant and good quality bike from the (limited) reports available, with good backup in the UK. Even a bit cheaper than the opposition as I recall from price announcements, just never see any.
As you live near York you might want to consider joining Scarborough and District Motor Club as your ACU club. They have a fantastic practice area available to club members for an additional fee. See their website.
Yes, I have also used a bulb set-up in the past to determine when the points are opening. Probably more accurate than the paper method. As an easy first step you could try just setting the points to the correct gap when they are fully open if they aren't already and seeing how it runs then. Points can tend to close up which retards the ignition and results in poor response from the engine.
Cutting out the rear frame loop became quite the fashion on older Bultacos when the factory started producing them like that. Can't remember anyone noticing any advantage.
Raising the gearing might improve things for the use you want to put the bike to, but if you're putting on a bigger front sprocket (available from Inmotion Trials in the UK) you could be in for some interesting times as the sprocket is a taper fit on the shaft and is notoriously difficult to shift, especially if it's been there since it was torqued on at the factory nearly 40 years ago. A Pittman puller is your best bet for this, but for goodness sake don't be standing behind it as you wind up the tension - when it finally lets go it can fly several feet at high speed.
Yes the points are behind the flywheel but you can adjust them through the window in the flywheel. You'll need a depth guage (preferably the dial type for accuracy) to screw into the spark plug hole to determine the point where the points should open. These are on eBay. On my Cota 247 it's 2.5mm b.t.d.c.
I've got a 0.001" feeler gauge which I use to judge when the points open as I turn the flywheel but a cigarette paper will do the job.
Check ignition timing? If it isn't spot on the bike may well be sluggish.
As has been said when taking off from a standstill on a trials bike on the road you would normally zip through the first three gears almost instantaneously, unlike a road bike there is very little "range" in the low gears.
Also I'd move the kickstart lever back a notch or two on its splines, it should sit closer to a 45 degree angle than it does.
Bike upright - use the steering lock to get round. Weight on outside footpeg. Pull upwards on inside bar end. Keep speed right down. Weight on front will help stop it washing out. Be as smooth as you can with clutch and throttle. Try it with knees together or splayed apart to get a feel for what works best. You'll probably find you develop a favoured side, ie turning left or right
Agreed. The eventual film will depict quite a heroic struggle if he gets through the week. Let's face it, he must be having quite a torrid time. Of the 60 sections in the first two days, he's fived 49 of them.
I know they are abit odd; but hiding in a trials bike engine, what's that about?.I hope that's not going to be happening world wide.....Imagine the disruptions that will cause at the World rounds.The FIM are probably dealing with it.
I hope so. Without being prejudiced, it's not something we should turn our backs on.
Lots of 247s must have been rebuilt over the years, not an insurmountable problem.
Looks quite a good one, though a pity it's lost it's original mudguards, which were an almost indestructible plastic. My one, which I bought new in 1979 (for £730!) and was reunited with a couple of years ago, has tubular loops welded on the frame as standard to protect the front/underside of the engine - hard to see if these are present on the bike in the pictures.
I've got that model of Montesa and also an SWM. In honesty I enjoy riding the Mont as it's still a decent bike in twinshock trials. You can get all the consumables you'll need from Inmotion, though this model, the 247c, was 237cc rather than 247cc so getting a piston could be awkward if you need one. However, old 247 barrels are pretty common on eBay so you could always fit one and get a piston for it from Inmotion (they do rebore sizes as well) .
If you ever need to split the cases you could be in for some fun as the crankshaft pinion (and gearbox sprocket) is a taper fit which can be a swine to remove.
wider footrests for Cota 247C
in Montesa
Posted
The original footrests are pretty pathetic, aren't they?
I use Raceline footrests, from www.motomerlin.co.uk. They are grippy and wide like other modern footrests but fit the single fitting on the Montesa frame - other footrests require the usual U-shaped bracket. I just had to grind the back edge a touch so the footrests sit horizontally. As I recall I used the original Montesa springs.
With some more modification it might even be possible to fit them down and back a bit as per the modern trend by mounting them behind, rather than over, the standard fitting on the frame.