sting32

Stal, The lack of air you were "thinking" IN MY HUMBLE EXPERIENCE, seems to me it would probably return to idle faster, Lean conditions cause the bike to carry on, same in cars and other engines. So you are going to have to troubleshoot this, make sure since we're not able to hear your bike unless you post up a video, that we're not making a mountain of a molehill... There are a few things to think about, how high you are revving for one (how high?), if it has an added fly wheel weight. if it is coming back down, at a pretty linear seeming speed, or is it as if you don't really let off the throttle, although you did? When it 'seems to carry on' after throttle is closed, then it sounds to me like a LEAN condition. Oh I Just thought of this, make sure your Carb's slide and the grip throttle are working right (twist n let off, the grip should very quickly return to closed, and when engine is off the slide will make a pretty audible "click or clank" when it bottoms out (closes). Damaged cable can hang your throttle you know. Back to probably Lean, this can happen of course with wrong jets sizing, or carb is plugged in the jets (very common), fuel from tank not getting INTO the carb, like floats are bent or not right, or harder to find - air is seeping into the intake path. For troubleshooting purpose, lets cover a basic... a leak in the intake path area we're talking about, is BETWEEN the carb, up to where the spark plug resides in the cylinder in my troubleshooting working idea, at least, OK? Most common areas of the intake path where a leak might happen is the boot from carb to crankcase, there is a gasket I believe where the reed block goes into the crankcase, if anyone has had that out, and didnt put i t back correctly sealed... Then there is the base gasket (under the cylinder), a bad seal on the flywheel side of crank case. Lastly, but I doubt it is a head (o'ring), but it could be. But, with head gasket/orings usually you have radiator spewing water out whenever the engine is running warm or cold, or the usuall symptoms or water in the transmission oil which makes foam. To trouble shoot here on the farm, since I keep a can of starting fluid, for all the engines that get run once a year, I'll start the engine, spray the boot around the carb (with the carb all hooked up to air filter of course). carefull not to spray towards airbox air inlet opening, as this would void the test... if the engine speeds up, that is where the leaks is. you can try soapy water to check for bubbles around base and head gaskets. I haven't had a crank seal ever go bad, on any of my Gas Gas's yet, so not sure how I would test this, I think I would try a quick squirt of ether with flywheel COVER off, or call it the process of eliminating all other possibilities First. going from a 38 to 40 jet (not actual values, I cannot seem to recall what mine are to less than 1000ft elevation) OR maybe changing the needle height, or even float level, can change how the bike returns to idle, I like my bikes running with bigger "fatter mixture of fuel" jets usually, makes it easier to start as well. Good luck, surely more "mechanically experienced" members will help on this one, my expereince is just from years of riding and working on older project bikes and being a farmer who had to work on a helluva lot of things as I grew up...

You will get along fine. Im going to be 47 soon... Well, like I said I was not trying to be a total ass with my 1st reply. pithy over here, in my head at least, meant the absolute lesser degree of smart assed-ness, than maybe over there, I dont know... lol. At anyrate, I would be remiss if I help you do something that in all honestly, has been re-engineered for the last 40+ years, from when I got started in the 70's... What you should do is mount your shifter up 45 degrees up in front, or just close to that, from the "level" or parallel to the the skid plate position that it was shipped, installed at the factory, this seems to keep it from shifting when a rock that might just barely touch your foot without taking evasive actions, to a defensive position of that it will take a rock or something, that will definitely hit your foot if you don't take evasive action, if you get my drift.. I mean you have a lot going on, but usually if you see a BIG rock heading to your toes, you EVADE, ifyou see a littler rock that looks like your pegs "might" clear, that is when you shift your weight or something and it hits the shifter on you. Good luck with trials, it is the best fun I

I was suggesting take it back off so he could see what is going on, mostly. might need to adjust it a little to make it clamp like it is supposed to, without hurting anything else (being awkward to work laying on floor looking up through frame of the bike, while doing this for the 1st time and all... YMMV

there is NOT a thermostat. there is a thermo-Switch that activates the fan ONLY, it does not affect the flow of water, like cars. I know the 08 has this switch on the RIGHT - upper (front meaning front tire side) side of the radiators. I cannot recall if the 06 still has it in the HOSE from cylinder head to the radiator, or not. But, I went to this website (Gas Gas Factory website, changed the language to my language (english) and opened the link for the Manual for the 06, which is this link, http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/download-2006_txtpro_partlist1.pdf.html which I saved to my "my Documents" so I could look at it without redownloading it... Opened that file, on page 14 it shows the exact same thermal switch that is IN the radiator, but the drawing isn't that good, I sold mine a while ago, but still, I think you will find it on TOP tank, IN the radiator, top right side like my 08 was. it is held in with a C-Clip, you will need clip ring pliers to get it out, there is an oring you better be careful with. the newer manuals dont show the hole for it either, if it matters. Might check Gas Gas.com for the video pages, the USA made the users manual into movie format on DVD, and now he has uploaded (I think most of them) to youtube. Hope that helps.

Staldantes, I worry that my reply sounds slightly 'pithy' but it was NOT intended to be. It is a "matter of experience" that we or I tell you what I or we know or have learned. trials, once you get halfway good at it, will make these things you see as "quirky" become more than "Oh, now I see why"... if you get my drift. Now I picked BOU because there are a CRAPLOAD of videos of him, I could have picked Raga, who rides the bikes I love... or a hundred of others, hell I even have a video of me on youtube thanks to a friend that recorded it a few years back... I didn't shift gears either in the short vid, so it would NOT have been much help for the subject at hand. And I picked the best riders, just like I want to learn to swing a golf club like the currently best golfer, instead of some Duffer from my little town in the USA, who has a weird swing, but who can consistently hit his balls right to where he wants them to be, but always has to want them to only travel about 160 yards from the teebox, when everyone else is hitting 240 yards. See the point? Occasionally I see newbies make freaking weird changes and or decisions based on how it seems to make it more like it was on a dirtbike or streetbike, they been riding then can't understand why it is a potential problem when riding a trials event, at ANYTHING above "beginner/newbie" status, that everyone else (manufactures included) figured out in the 70's.

that head spacer means you have 4 o'rings to deal with, double the chance to fail to get it assembled without pinching one of the o'rings. that vent tube you had, has to have the hole in the bottom, it was just a trick to use "one" hose to both sides, with hole in bottom to vent, as if it were 2 separate hoses...

yeah, find neutral while getting close to parking (still moving) is what I do... otherwise, I have "NEVER" found neutral by mistake while stopped trying to get to second or 3rd... which is a GOOD thing.

Im not all that knowledgeable on shocks, but my "BEST" bet is, that this is the DUST seal at least, otherwise you would have lost oil and any dampening (shock absorbing) and it would ride like a pogo stick. It probably has some kind of crimp that held it onto the end of the shock reservoir? I'd take the shock back off and see if you can't get it back into place. If you bought the shock "retail" or ebay, return it, let them fix it.

Chewy, you being funny? We do move the clutch and front brake levers as far "in" from the edges of the handlebars, because you use 1 finger to operate either lever. PLUS, the farther out on the lever itself your index finger is, the easier to pull the clutch or pressure on the front brakes, it is Sesame Street physics (leverage). The bonus to moving the levers inas far as you can is, makes it less likely that the levers hit the ground 1st when you fall off your bike, usually the much stronger bars themselves will impact the ground, this way you dont bend/break those $22 levers. My rear brake lever is tucked in by the case so that I (hardly so slightly) have to reach in with my toe to use it, not much really. However this keeps it out of the way. the stock brake pedal on the 08 or newer Gas Gas, sticks out enough that it is worthless IMHO, with the bonus that is bends upon your 1st tight rock/tree encounter, because it not only sticks out way too far, but is "pre bent" shape, from the factory means that 1st encounter with a V shaped crevas of rocks, means your brake lever is now more shaped like a pretzel. I replace that lever with designs that were designed or sold on the older bikes (04-08). Gear shift is something FEW trials riders even use while riding a section. The Pro's do, and if you haven't yet, I suggest you search for Toni Bou. On youtube, you can watch them highly skilled top riders, changing gears about 15 times before a particularly difficult section or rock wall. you do take your foot off the pegs to do so, get used to it, and mark that "skill" off your checklist of things to master. you will also notice that they don't use the front wheel, and dont even need the engine all that often either, lol. (Toni bou, in his "unplugged" debut, lol) FYI, a trials bike is setup to compete in a trials, from the factory... This isn't your momma's Honda trail 90, where you just push on your heal or toe to shift gears while leisurely trotting down the gravel path... Now if you want to take your ( I dont know what a gear shift lever costs, what about $55 - 80 US?) and cobble it up so you can shift without moving your foot, you have every right to do so...

I am not going to start a war, I hope. Since we're not Sherco Experts down here, I would suggest you tell us what you were using, maybe someone will speak up if they used it. Im assuming you are just talking about the transmission/clutch oil, and that we're discussing 2-stroke powered Sherco? Gas:oil mix and brands used probably ok, I like personally fully synthetic premix oil, mixed 80:1 in my Gas Gas year round. Transmission oil recommended by many (you should read all the threads on here) was ATF like dextron 3, I used type F, but Type F makes the clutch really quick and on off like to me. Change the trans oil often! it lubes your crank bearings, and also washes everything else in the transmission and clutch area! 10 hours or less if you know what I mean... I say one good trials (we get 3 hours to ride out loops) and a few nights practice, then change oil before the next meet, is how try to I roll.

Staldantes, I know everyone has an opinion. But, I used GM's Autotrack2 transmission fluid, never had any of the issues that many of the upper echelon (up the Gas Gas support chain) were reporting, that I ever can see or tell. up until last week I had in our stable, the last 4 bikes we bought new, a 2006 300 Pro, a 2008 Raga 300, a 2010 raga 300, and the 2011 raga 300. Up until we bought the 2011, we were using the GM autotrack. no clutch problems. I have switched to Yamalube of some flavor, and the clutch almost feels the same as I liked it with Autotrack2 (how quickly it bites). All because everyone was saying get away from the autotrack2 and I think they were saying any synthetic transmission oils. I did this because it seemed prudent to not press the issue. I dont know why our bikes seems to not have the whatever clutch issue that GG-UK has reported to be the effect of synthetic oil. Im also not certain, but I think the Yamalube I use now, is motor oil with semi synthec blend, but I am not positive and will have to re-check which bottle I actually have, looking at Yamaha motor corps's yamalube website, I cannot recall which one I am buying/using. Automatic trans fluid seems to me, to make the clutch more like a light switch (engaged or not enguaged) where at the 5w30 that I think i am using, seems to make the switch slightly more like a dimmer switch, which I like as I can really feather the clutch. Big dogs don't feather clutches, they point REV, and shoot at everything, and hop where I am trying to just "turn" you know. hope that helps a little. I'm getting old enough (and my real job takes up too much memory) I cannot recall but lots of guys over here in USA, in my local club at least, were using some MOTUL branded oil I believe, I just dont know what it was though, I didnt try it, and yamalube is cheaper. Main thing probably is, dont use autotrack2 (lol), and change it VERY often. it is lubing the crank bearings in the Pro engines, plus we abuse the clutches, so change it, after just a few hours of riding you know... I say 10 hours or so. the oil turns blackish tinted (compared to fresh) with clutch drizzle I guess, in about 10 hours or so. Changing it often, helps you keep the debri out, clean both bolts ya know (fill and drain) they have magnets to catch metal filings.

Lee, If the old filter was not maintained, and was super dirty, and someone adjusted the carb for this condition, then "maybe" you would have to re adjust? otherwise not. bad gas, can cause problems, gas goes bad in smaller quantities faster than big oil storage farms. so you could have now, a carb that is clogged up, the jets are about the sizes of pencil lead for mechanical type pencils, if you get what I mean. Just a short story, I took apart a 2stroke carb from a wetbike (jjetski like thing with Suzuki outboard motor)... cleaned the carb, and while putting it back together a bug, a gnat to be exact, crawled into the fuel inlet area. this plugged the main jet, after about 30 ft of running. But, otherwise, even if everything "is adjusted wrong" on the outside of the carb, I think you should be able to start the engine, it might not idle and it might run like $hit, but if it is getting the 3 parts of any fire, fuel, air, ignition (spark) it should attempt to run. you can (although risky) squirt a little gasoline into a carb, I use a short squirt of starting fluid when working on old junk bikes, just to hear it run for a hlaf a second... Beware, there is NOT ANY LUBRICATION in starting fluid, so only use it once or twice before getting premixed fuel into the engine, IMHO> after that, if it runs then you have carb problem probably. BTW, haven't tried this on anything newer than say a 1995 or older bike, since anything that new usually runs when I get it... If it has stopped running abrubtly (doesnt sound like carb problem, unless for some reason float stuck open) you have most likely, an electrical issue. it can be as simple as the kill switch is stuck grounding out the spark, to bad electronics under the tank. Kehins like 1.5 turns out on the idle mixture screw (this screw is usually in a hole, so to speak), Delorto you start with 3-3.5 turns out. then adjust to suit the engine. The bigger and more exposed screw should be idle speed/tickover, the screw raises and lowers where the slide stops when you let off the throttle.

Naw, I think the creaking you heard was pads slipping until they completely aligned to the rotors and got a grip usually. BTW, the brakes, you probably could guess, are just big enough for the job, (weight considerations you know) and when they work "right" they work better than anything we've had in the past trials bikes (well in stock form, you know...) But when they have an issue, they suck as bad as old drum brakes, until you sort it out, lol.

Makes a guy want to call Kehin, and give them a piece of my mind, (if I thought it would change anything) Man, that is rediculous, I even hate the idea of plastic part being used to adjust something so critical in the 1st place! Thanks for the info, and it might as well be sat night, we loaded the bikes last night for a 2day, event... the bikes leave today, I get there tomorrow

Yeah Laser is right on every point, shocks really wont come into any (how do I say it) justification or affect on your riding, really, until you are way advanced. There are settings on both shocks that can be adjusted to suit, in fact you might see if you can check a upper riders' preferences on the settings, that is what I do. The Reiger I have though, has 1 more adjustments instead of 2? on the "rest of the" bikes... I guess I thought it was adjustable dampeing, for both compression and rebound, & spring rate (simply put the preloading of the spring). I guess they stopped putting that shock on even the Raga for 2012? I bet since most dont adjust that, and if they do, they have shock tuners that make those settings internally, least even I did with the sachs...

Hoped I spelled that right., Got the 12 Raga 300. Cannot get the FREAKING idle mixture screw to come out. it comes a long way, then stops and gets really scary hard to turn. I am afraid I will break the sonofabeech off in the damn carb. I replace that screw with one I can use to adjust without a tool! (from S3 or someone). Anyone know where I can find out what the hail is up with that? I dont have time to screw it up this week, but by next week, I need help, lol.

They (formula) not being the same connectors or banjo or whatever the difference is... Well, it just seems STUPID beyond refute... if nothing else becuase it means dealers have to have 2 types for the same friggin part in stock, and ship you the wrong one the 1st time of course.

Just clearing up one thing, about the brake adjuster, the nut you see it is the jam nut, least it is on all the bikes I own. 2 things have been reported, One was before AJP lost the fight to be solvent. I am pretty sure it was my 2008 Raga and many guys of that year bike, had to rebuild the master cylinders, without many hours from new, for a torn o-ring. I didnt own the 08 raga, I think my dad had our dealer check it out and he did the work. I think it is really easy to check this, there is a Circlip and get the pluger out and check? might be able to do on bike, with tank off, laying on side? then there are the "several" the Formula problems, (link given by jandyb above) of which I have only seen people provide links to, BUT, since I dont have any formula brake bikes, I haven't read those... yet.

Just my opinion and thoughts from being around and guessing some: The Ohlins was considered an upgrade, especially back around 2006, that is when the Sachs was replaced on OUR 06 300 pro, as shipped by the factory. My problem is (looking back now) about the same as Formula brakes: is it an upgrade, or availability sold by salesmen as an upgrade? The Racing models, was/is upgraded with a few things than sold on a regular pro, so I would still guess the Ohlins is better according to many? a few other anecdotal tidbits? I thought I have read that Raga didnt like the action of the ohlins, so the raga's usually had sachs, until the new reiger of course... I have a guy near me, that rebuilds my Sachs, he HATES Ohlins personally. but maybe because of parts or other issues. I do know the Sachs you can change out the spring, with one for heavier weight riders, they were around $100 (USD) and relatively easy to get since SOO MANY Gas Gas's had that Sachs shock. I don't know if it was as easy with Ohlins, with fewer bikes having them? Ohlins might be easier rebuildable, I do NOT know? Sorry as I type this, I might not be as much help as I 1st thought... since I kept using Sachs, because I already had the "fat boy" spring for one, I did this for several years. BUT, dad thought he liked the Ohlins better for a while at least. We're just about 200lbs now either of us, he might be lighter actually. size of rider, size of the obstacles, might make the difference? I dont think Ohlins V Sachs overrides bike condition, for sure. the new reiger is worth every penny according to MANY upper level riders though.

I was thinking levers ones on bars, not rear brakes, sorry. OP was talking about clutch, so.....

Yep, good! now what I have learned from having gassers pro's since 04, I always look at my dad's & all of our bikes' oil level portal, a LOT ​I seem to be drawn to check when riding, I check everyone's around me, lol, whenever it hits me, and it seem hit me to notice it, a lot. It is just what I habitually do, and i've caught seal failures quickly this way, on mine and friends bikes.

I was hoping someone would have tried this... Thanks for the info Lowbrow. FWIW, thought the Formula were more or less "copies" of the AJP, so I assumed they'd be the same, but hated to mislead, so I kept my "keyboard/mouth shut" on this one.

they are all gas filled, nitrogen instead of air...

Beta isnt perfect either. they had problems with radiators not that long ago that they updated quickly, but if you already bought and had the bike, you were in the same situation you are with this Gas Gas... one solution is, there is a guy on this forum (http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/user/746-ikb/ I think it was) that machined out of aluminum, a really really good spacers that you bolt onto the carb, with 3 set screws, then slide the hose onto. You might PM him and see? FWIW, I bought 3 of these, worth every penny plus shipping from the other side of the big pond. Made it a LOT easier to get that hose onto the carb every time. I had them on the both of our 2004 300's and I might have even had it one an 06 125/220. I was diggin through my spare parts last night, and I seem to have one in the baggie, I must have kept it when I sold one of the 300's.

Hope to see you there, bring lots of bug spray! I know around my house the bugs must have taken the hot summer off, now they are like making up for lost time!