sting32

The switch I believe he is referring to is, the thermostatic (temp) controlled switch. the 06 should have it in the radiator, held in place with a C-Clip, and yeah they can go bad. BUT: If there is not water covering this, fan might not come on, and if waterpump is NOT pumping, it might take too long to turn on! To test for bad thermostat there are 2 ways... 1 NOTE: this switch interupts the path to ground. So what we do is, jumper those wires together, either paperclip or physically together... This thermostat only disrupts the path to ground when "cold" so not much to worry about , but don't be silly with your jumper, be neat, if you know what I am saying... now when you connect the wires with jumper or other means (I use a paperclip, I even was known to keep one taped to our bikes in the past, for emergencies for you or friend's bike). (edit forgot #2) 2 put thrmostat in hot water, test that resistance is close to 0 ohms (switch closed), when cold ohms are innfinity (open) Now, when you start the engine, if voltage is there, the FAN will run all the time while engine is running. IF fan doesn't turn on, try to spin fan (CARFUL Doing this, DONT LOSE A FINGER) if it still doesnt work, you might have no voltage From the voltage rectifier thingy that converts the 24+ volt "pulses" to usable 12-18v I think it is, that will run the fan. Then last test you can do easily is what "thatsafive" said, find both wires that goto the fan, touch them to a 12 battery, if that is the only time the fan works, you probably have a bad rectifier... Parts manuals here (http://www.gasgasmot.../manuals/3.html) Voltage from the lighting coils in flywheel area is not perfect DC, so they have a "rectifier" or "converter" some call it, in that black box up by the radiator.. PS! Take pictures when you start to mess with this stuff (wiring) so you get it back like it was, I take pictures before I disturb ANYTHING under the tank, if it is your first time, so you can get it all packed back in there like it was, trust me, getting it all stuff back in that little area is a chore once you pull everything out, if you dont have a photographic memory, lol.

Take carb back out, when carb is upside down (and level at where the slide goes into the carb) Then, I believe the floats will be level horizontally when resting on its needle valve. But I am just trying to recall from memory, someone else might chime in with better information, measurements. I think level is a good start though. Dirt was probably (My guess) the reason it was overflowing? But the kehins are harder to get bowl off, and if you aren't careful, I dont know what all you can bend, Kehins can be finicky, I think, if you are... I adjust my idle mixture as conditions change through out my day (honestly about 2 times unless really big weather changes during competition)... But usually not more than 1/8th turn max, if you know what I mean from the last good adjustment... really depends on weather. the main jet can be trapping oil when gas has alcohol in it (least that is my experience) plus I suggest a filter on the hose that supply's the carb, as it is easier to change it than remove carb to clean out if you know what Im sayin there. I was under the understanding that most like the Delorto's better on smaller displacement engines, but I ONLY ride Raga 300's anymore, so what do I know,

Stonezone... Just FYI, and this is NOT set in stone, but seems to be what is what, since 2008 at least, what I have seen. Raga is released before the next year's production bikes, so '11 Raga (the most recent) is/was marketed as "protoype" for the 2012 years production bikes (racing and normal models)... PLUS since the raga is a "special edition" it has some "Raga Special edition" only options. Like this last one, it had the 3 way adjustable Reiger shocks, and newly sourced? or NOS AJP type brakes?... Being that is was called the Raga Prototype in 08, I guess you call it as a preview in the sense of what frame geometry and pant/decals, yet kind of loosely that way. Right now the Raga versions that made it to USA were 2011 models, as far as I know 2012 Raga, will come out later this year, closely followed by the 2013 models of "racing" and "normal" models. Hope that helps? Hope I have it right... lol

Dont you guys be buying up all the friggin raga's, lol most of you just need the racing model anyhow... This way there is one left for me...

Joe, I could be wrong over in where you live, but once 2006 came along, "pro" is all there was being produced I believe (maybe over there they sold leftover parts assmebled into a bike in 06?). It was 2002/2003 when the new engine transmission design came out, that saved a bunch of weight, designated as the "pro" models the other ones were TXT. FWIW, the previous model bike's (engine and frames where highly different) were not refered to as pro, over here in USA we call them just TXT models. that same engine has been basically around at least since 1994.... One of the "finding or taking about" the 2 different generations of Gas Gas models lately are... Gas Gas keeps dropping and then adding txt in the names again, I guess... over here, there is the RAGA, RACE, and REGULAR models, all are understood to be "pro" model generation engine trans, implied and or actually stated in/on documentation. hope that helps... again your part of the world (if your arent in the US) could be different I guess. Google some pictures of Gas Gas 2002 TXT for older engine/transmission shots, then google for Gas Gas pro and look at anything newer than 2004, there are distinct differences in the engines and weight.

1... I bet that is the truth, "rose joint?" ok... Im waiting to see if those reigers start getting comments, or were they aware and made the shocks so this wont happen? you hear anything yet? Dad has the 2012 raga, dang it is very very nice shock, and Im not even that good but I can feel the difference... 2 I dunno with Algore and company, chrome is supposedly very environmentally un friendly to produce (which has raised the prices of it immensley). I happen to have the alum forks off my 06 regular pro, on my 08 raga... I've moved myself up last year, to my 2010 raga. Those alum forks made that bike! I ride the 2010 better though...

Tell me what you had to do, to get that rubber in there? seems to me, there isnt any room for that rubber on mine, lol. Very nice idea, I think. I also think you should take it back off, now that you know it fits, make a pattern, and well, sell them...

I think everyone thought you were talking about the "shark tooth" guard at the rear sprocket. If it were me, I would just take the screws out, grind the sharp end of the screws off, put it back together? in fact I might do that right away myself now that you mention it, I have seen this happen to "friends" luckily not me (knock on wood). But I dont know how important that guard is... I doubt anyone will notice, except at bigger events...

Brakes: you might find, that this old bike needs a master cylinder kit, I mean... It IS a wear item... Pads can get contaminated, try new ones, or take a good 40 grit to them, but hey pads they are relatively cheap... Both of the above, is of course AFTER you try the suggestions given by Pete Silencer I think will cost you big $$ (sorry dont have the "pounds symbol" on my keyboard). Just find a shop that can weld with a TIG. then ALSO get all of the mounting points welded and gusseted some, only get it welded and reinforced after you get it all "bent back into place, that misses the tire"... you'll have fun on this. it isnt too old to get parts.

There is a guy in Wichita ks, that rebuilt my sachs shock, he rebuilds shocks for motocrossers and go fasters, but he also used to ride trials so that helps... And so, I have to believe you "might be able" to get parts, not sure what the economic consequences would be (parts might be higher than new shock for the shock in picture above?) I dont know why you couldnt find a source to get the parts, unless like so many things I own, they just dont make/sell individual parts. The sach is not rebuildable, but like I said this guy can rebuild them. I also think a person could take that shock (pictured) and get it welded up. Sure, it depends on the alloy, but from what i see in that picture, you wont have anything to lose in trying it, before long... Lazer, thanks, I remember now that you mentioned it... Am I recalling it right? I was thinking I heard or read rumors at the time, that raga "didnt like the ohlins"? and that was why raga's didnt get the ohlins... But that could been "reasoning" for letting us have the sachs, lol. kinda like on 08 the early US batch of 300 Raga's had steel forks, although they were supposed to be aluminum, but they couldn't get enough for production maybe? I just remember being disappointed about that aspect, when it was uncrated in our shop. the 08' raga model was the prettiest bike Gas Gas has made EVER

I like Mike's idea, and I am similiar... To me you know what I mean here.... kind of like computers, save early save often, engines or machinery? change oils early, change often. It is cheap! how much is shop rates where you live? $50-70 Ive seen, means you can get a lot of friggin quarts of oil for less than it takes to remove the engine from the frame, before they even get it apart to split the cases, to be worked on! lol.

My 2010 didn't come with Ohlins... hmmmm. By my 2006 did. that part I think, is called a himes joint, I think Gas Gas can get them for you. I know we replaced one on the ohlins I have... Seems you rotate that part a certain way, it and tap it out, tap new one in rotate it back to normal position... But memory is failing, I would check with your dealer/parts supplier, if possible...

I dont know the specifics about when the plates might been sourced differently. my 2008 raga replica, and all my older bikes, I ran that autotrack in, didnt have trouble with clutch plates. more than a year ago, I got the 2010 from my dad, it always had autotrak in it. I then finally got off that autotrak because everyone was posting it was "bad idea" and I had used it all up . WIll I have problems in the future? I dunno, my son rides it about 2 times a year... But, now Im using that yamalube, love it. Im just intermediat/sr expert rider (3 full levels below pro {counting down from tops around here it is, pro, master, expert, then Sr Expert} since all across the world classes are named differently)... So maybe I dont hurt clutches enough with my riding? Id do what is safe and recommended. I was handed the 1st quart of Yamalube, by a reasobably in the know person Gas Gas mechanic that does all my heavy technical repairs to anything I am scared to touch repair or maintenance wise. I really like how it feels. plain old ATF is to much like a toggle switch on/off to me, but I can get used to it, and I have before. I just like silky smoothness with the yamalube... Also note I get the yamalube "EASILY" (AKA dont have to hunt or worry 'dealer is out' from my buddy, if he had other oils as easy to get that we liked, I'd use it too. Hell, experiment until you get the feeling you like, like I thought I would have to do, after the autotrak became a no no... Luckily the 1st one I tried worked well, thanks to the fact I think he tried a couple then shared with me. Your mileage may vary, lol.

Along with laser1, there are hundreds of threads arguing the trans oil, some will point to Gas Gas uk website that specifically warns that you shouldnt use synthetic oils or at least not what I loved to use, "gm's (general motors) autotrak 2" fluids.{please not 'ed means past tense} . I like this yamaha oil I have been using, slightly ever so slightly more bite to the clutch than with autotrack2... it is a 5w30 motor oil. its all good, I guess. wish I could recall exactly what it is, I believe it is semi-synthetic though.

I lost track that finding neutral was a "problem" lol, because in a trials situation, last thing I want is neutral. Been riding Gas Gas "pro" models since they came out, and I guess I have just gotten used to finding neutral just before, but just as I get close to stopping if I want to have neutral, or I sit on the seat and find it with my hands (pulling up from 1st works well), or lastly I kill the bike and then find it usually just as I get the lever out to kick. Just habit now I guess, so I didnt respond about Gas Gas and this issue I guess. Another hint for you... I set the clutch lever up, so that my finger (you know 1 finger clutching) is not pulling the lever clear back against my fingers, to disenguage the clutch, let alone to "modulate the slip" of the clutch... If I had pictures, but you would see that clutch action is worked more out there, where your finger just starts to curl puling on the lever. This increases your speed/decreases reaction time pulling the clutch, plus gives you that ability to wrap 4 fingers around the clutch, and then it pulling it more free to find neutral. takes about 1 hour to adapt to this style, I cannot ride bikes at all that lever pull is clear back to knuckles at all... Where exactly was the damaged oring found? was in where the insert was, or just the head's double ring?

The other problem (not just trials related) with Alcohol added gasoline, google the words "GAS PHASE SEPARATION" it will make you sick. what is worse is, they add 10% or more to fuel, government subsidizes them a bunch for doing it, Plus it doesnt save us 10% on the cost of gas, plus that gas has 10% of the energy removed now, (as in miles per gallon a car will get on that tank of fuel)... It just gets worse and worse... Azz Usuall

He may want 80 "pounds" for it, that dont mean people will pay such a price for them? hmmm, then again what was it some piece of human hair sold for millions?

Welcome to the world of consumer-ism, what makes a 2010 vs 2013 model whirlpool refridgerator "worth it"? or new car better than last years? sheesh. Most of us could probably ride almost as well as we do now, on a aforementioned 70's or 80' ty250, if everyone was on same era junk. The Eco, is a great thing, for what it is. Nowhere does anyone do this "up front" like Gas Gas does. Sure honda and the likes sold the old XT bikes with that old air cooled engine even though they offered the newest more powerful motocross or road bikes, for much more $... I like that it is allowing a person that wants "Freshly manufactured NEWNESS" built with parts that are "slightly out dated" compared to the officially produced main stream product. and I mean slightly... FWIW, everything involved in the "Computer" industry does this, but, telling you to your face, they are about the only ones. FOr Example... you can buy the most current motherboard, Graphics card, newest CPU for about 3 grand when outfitted for a gamer who wants everything new/latest and greatest, which is as powerfull and as fast as they come, or you can buy a $615 dollar Dell or hp, lower priced "main stream" computers, that are using 3 year old but still produced CPU's motherboards and less powerfull graphics cards and most of you wont care how much less powerfull or cutting edge the computer will be, since they are more than capable for "surfing the trials websites..." I think most would refer to the Eco, as an "main stream" starter bike, if we marketed them like Dell was. And you know what I mean, because you can probably buy my 3 year old "gamer system" computer used somewhere for less than I would sell it, knowing what it cost me 3 years ago, yet cheaper than I could buy all new parts (which are all available new still) and build ONE JUST LIKE it for you... But I bet it would be better than what you are surfing with at the moment, for 90% of you anyhow.

His should be a Kehin like mine and dads though, so that is why I didnt tell him to drill out things, lol, I remeber you or Steve telling me we ought to do this years ago like on the 04's. Started "pre charging" rock exercise, and it works good enough. you get a feel for what it takes, dad does more, I do less for our respective bikes. I do it, if for nothing else, to save any wear or tear on the starter parts... know what i mean? I mean, 2 seconds and you save 4 or 5 kicks? = No Brainer.

Hey Razorback, I have a starting tip for you, to try. This might not work if you are actually having a bike that is getting too much fuel when you cold start, but hell, 99% of these bikes actually starve for fuel to start. So just give this one try next night you have a chance. Works for me and my dad every day/night no matter what the weather. when you get ready to start your bike, turn on the choke, pull the shifter once or twice (your choice, I personally use 3rd). leave clutch out, rock the bike back and forth moving the engine enough that it is more less bouncing from near TDC (compression) both directions, sometimes I push kicker by hand to get it off the compression part of the stroke, so I can "rock" it... I do this at least 4 times in hot nice weather, in cold I do it 8 times, forward and back 1 times = 1. Now, Each time, bike starts on 1st kick. what is more even when it was 32F at winter trials, might take 2-3 kicks, where it was taking 10 (watch your buddies kick their bikes, I do and I kind of laugh, 6 kicks for most when it is like 70 degrees in the morning). Me, I get almost pissy if I rock the bike 4 times and it doesnt start 1st kick. Helps though that it has been jetted for my area (ks-ok-tx, you know sea level or 1000ft). I like mine richer than pro's who want the big thing to jump before they are ready... 38 pilot I think I have. not sure on main I can look sometime, I document by carving it into the toolbox lid, lol. Anyhow, This saves a HELL OF A LOT of wear and tear on kick-start parts. Some people just lay the bike over to flood the bike when it is cold, since the carbs dont seem to get overly rich enough to start these things when cold. But if you are actually flooding the way you are now, this definitely wont help ya. Just try it. ALso I have had a new plug go bad, I buy Bosch platnums, they are like 3 or 4 bucks a piece so I had hard time thinking a new plug was a problem, but it was. your mileage may vary?

Hope you figure out why the water level is getting too low, IMHO if it is NOT above the cores (visible in the tank below the cap) I would sort of be worried. the new bikes dont have chrome/nickel plated exhaust that would turn blue if ran lean (and got hotter) wich helps in knowing about some lean problem. Be sure to say Hi, I ride with NEOTT occasionally, it is quite the drive, and they are great bunch of guys, down there, including JSE, hehehehee...

already posted the smarty pants post, but to help with this water missing/overheating, Did you remove the head for any reason yet? if you have NOT done any work on this bike.... You better check the jets in the carb compared to your riding altitude... if you bought a bike from high altitude, like denver''s altitude and higher, but ride lower, like kansas or whatever (below 3000ft), you will burn the motor up pretty fast, especially if it is hot outside, running it lean with high altitude jets. Call lewissport, and ask. after you find out what altitude you are at. I dont know where you are. tell them where (and altitude) they should be able to not only get you the jets, but at minimum tell you what jets you should have. I have jets for riding below 3000ft, like Kansas is 1000ft, and smaller (leaner) ones for going to colorado (5000- 8000ft). That a first guess anyhow, & dont ask me how I know this can happen, OK? LOL.

Dammit Razorback, Im jealous as heck... I forgot I promised to check, but you described same as I know is on dad's bike. BTW, you should just trade me your 11, raga for my 10. It is just a little bit softer than the 11, which IMHO is 4-10 times quicker than the regular pro models, I havent had luxury to ride any 2012 models yet, though... What you bought is, the most advanced and "hot" powered version of the Pro 300 that the factory will sell to general public, or at least that Gas Gas imports for the consumers, to the USA... it is setup for TRIALS with some expensive (if bought seperately) & neat optional parts, like a 3 way adjustable rear Reiger shock. Plus the whole bike extra light, has special Raga (he's the Gas Gas Factory rider) parts, and specs for pipes and lot of things... This raga version of these bikes cost more than the normal, and slightly more than the "racing" model, partially because it is a preview to the "12 models, with special "raga" selected parts. To be honest anyone could ride it, but really it is for advanced riders to appreciate some of those parts that are not "normal", but NOT totally unusable for novice riders, well kinda... it is like giving your Dog the most expensive and best tasting t-bone steaks from a prefered restaurant. The dog isn't really going to appreciate, in fact my take or experience is, some times that fancy preperations those fancy places do, upset some dog's stomach. To the dog, it is food, or meat... and he will lick his butt right after that anyhow, all that fancy stuff is wasted on poochie. if you know what I mean. I have been wanting one so badly, after I got to ride my dads... Maybe I get a shot at one of the 12 raga's this year... So, I think you should know where you are... you just more or less bought the fanciest raciest advanced Gas Gas trials bike, The raga was snynomous to "prototype" for the public to buy/see... What is sad to me, is you are trying to make it a "honda Trail 90" which sounds more like what you need where you are at, working on Bicycle paths? I mean the 74 and up models have those big ol racks on the back, that come in handy... and well I have tried to be funny, and all of that is, since I have not read you posting about competitng with said "2011 Raga" you have. and I swear, Im not trying to be any kind of ass, about saying that, just how else does someone explain that I dont need a ferrari, then try to make a Prius like car out of it? with lotsa bucks i guess.. Im sure this will draw some flames, but I cant rewrite the whole thing, most of it was in fun from my end, so have fun with that ferrari Razorback.

I would ask a previous owner? or who you bought it from... Now please note, I dont "know for sure" but would bet, that most even Raga's shipped with standard compression insert, I know my buddy had to purchase higher compression for his, when he went to Co Nationals, but his is the previous year raga, so I think a call to Lewissport or rising son or importer, might be in order, that is to verify against my assumptions, if it is Critical knowledge you seek. My bet is it shipped with a std compression insert, with lower and higher you can buy from suppliers/local dealers. My dad has this same bike, Ill try to remember to look at his tonight, post later or tomorrow if I remember.

I believe the reason for the "cannot touch split markers" rule had been adopted, my guess is because there is a HUGE problem with, people actually riding the split marker, 3 riders ride up with tires right on the split marker like they have in the past, then rider #4 does same exact ride, the marker falls off, he's fived PLUS now the marker cannot be re-stapled, re-glued, or whatever held the marker is gone!!! (just thinking logically, you can chime in) and without the tools that the trials master had when setting up all the sections, months ago, it pretty much changes the section. So it seems to me, someone thought, well from now on you cannot touch the split marker, and IMHO that is a good idea, except Everyone is not placing markers where maybe this "brushing them, while turning a tight turn" from another rider's line, would NOT be an issue? It is a tough problem, I have seen split markers (not at nationals, lol) placed in Bizaar places, like 8ft above your sight line, up a tree, no problem with hitting that marker, but everyone missed it too, because who looks up there except the guy that put it up there, lol... It think it will be stupid to try to make RIBON and TAPE off limits or "cant touch this" as well... Yet I wanna add to this discussion... I still think it is STOOPID, that you cannot wipe your face, eyes or fix your glasses with foot down... To me, it is a SAFETY ISSUE on that rule that is outdated, from the days when they had straps on rear to move the bike around. I think they need to allow you to wipe your face/eyes/glasses area... If you go anywhere else with your hand, then five I guess. this includes your butt crack and or genitals adjustments... lol. Probably doesnt affect some of you that dont sweat in 90-100 degree heat I guess.