sting32

Is there a club page, or "itsa" page somewhere, you know that is hosting this or other events, so I could see schedules and read flyers or what not? Maybe this is it? http://www.twinshock.org/ TIA.

Chris, In My HONEST and Humble opinion is, hope this will help, That the Gas Gas PRO MODELS will not really ever "not drag" a little, it is something that we as Gas Gas riders have come to "deal with". I am biased, and like my bike this way, but because I am sure, that I am "used to it". you will learn the couple of things, we Gas Gas rider/owners do or try to do... When you know you are going to stop and need/want neutral, you find neutral whenever possible, before you completely stop, with your foot. If you are stopped, I reach down and move the lever with my hand to pull or push the lever firmly & slowly, but without jerking motion, to the neutral click... If I forget, most time I kill the bike as well. As you get used to riding, you will learn to ride the rear brake ever so slightly. I know, Montesa and other riders will laugh at this notion, but I cant help it either, and you just get used to it, in fact I am so used to it, when I rode a friends bike, it throws me off (timing and "feeling" wise) when the bike is completely free... As I lose balance, I find letting out on the clutch, with brakes full on, can help me regain balance (as long as I am moving my body the correct way of course). so slight pressure of that dragging clutch, can help you balance a slight bit, as well... I like the way we can vary how quickly or slowly the clutch engages, with oil, as well as the clutch pack/finger measurements, so dont throw the old clutch away! BTW... Be ABSOLUTELY sure that there is a TINY bit (like a half of milimeter or so) of free play at your clutch lever, so that the hydraulics can adjust the amount of brake fluid is in the line, between Master cylinder, and slave (which is inside the clutch case you know)... At the lever, there is a pin that pushes on a cuped rod, with spring that then it pushes on the master cylinder's plunger. you can feel the difference kind of slight, but it is noticable, if not you need to losen the lever's adjuster a turn until or so, until you do... make sure that you feel the difference on that spring before the master cylinder plunger (solid)... If you dont, what you will find is, the clutch/engine and hydraulic line can warm up, expand the fluid in the clutch line, and actually disengage the clutch slightly depending on heat of riding conditions and such. I freely admit, some riders don't like this clutch thing, at all. FWIW, most I have seen get a Gas Gas after any other bike they have owned, get used to it fairly short time, you being new all around, might take a tiny bit of time, I dont know.

Gas Gas clutches can wear and get out of spec. Plus, over time the fiber clutches can swell. So there is a way to make the clutch easy to pull again. It has to do with adjusting the thickness of the clutch pack, easily measured at the "fingers" that the hydraulic slave pushes on. Here is the link to the page that links directly to the YOUTUBE videos, that originally came with your Gas Gas on a DVD, as of about 2006, when new, in the USA at least? http://www.trialspartsusa.com/youtube.html Scroll down, about 1 page, you will see the heading "maintenance videos, go just a little farther see the clutch videos (3 of them). What you will see is him explaining that when the clutch pack gets out of spec, the fingers "lower" which makes the clutch harder to pull, but also affects how "progressive" or quick the clutch will engage, per millimeter of movement of the slave cylinder. Some like it fast and me I like it slow, and easier to pull myself. Even at its worst, they are easier than most motorcycles clutches, not withstanding other trials bikes I guess.

Jon, Just so I can plan better next year (no graduations to goto). What was the timeline? you ate at 7pm, then started when, then everyone was done by when? I didnt plan ahead but almost drove down, but figured I would fall asleep in the 5 hour trip home, lol...

Stoney, Have you located the PART PDF file, you might find it on the Gas Gas spain website? It might at least help you figure out what goes where? when I had one of those old bikes, the manual was on VCR tape, and showed a few things (kinda like the youtube vids do for the pro models).

Here is the formerly NATC trials clubs directory... not sure when last updated... http://www.trialsclubs.us/ I know some guys from MN, they come to nebraska and Kansas a lot. If yer on facebook, look for MATT (Wester Missouri's club, stand for Mid America Trials Team I think. Ben Winterer is in that FB club I am pretty sure, reach out there, I dont know...

Sorry no, graduations and other things...

Hey I got a couple or so guesses, and suggestions... Are you filling the radiator each ride? if so, some might blow out as it gets to the "Level the coolant system prefers", so maybe monitor this, by checking (VERY OFTEN) during a few hours riding? of course, after you let it cool, seems to me as long as you can see fluid above the fins part of radiator, you will be fine, if all else is up to "snuff" so to speak. Have you ever done the water pump kit or inspection? I read on these boards in the past, that people take the pump apart and the impellers's fins, were gone off that pump, which is plastic. Might be worth a check? water has to circulate at a good rate ya know, or it is going to boil quicker than the tiny cooling system can take. Somewhere, either on this board or another, someone had issues with the "voltage regulator" which somewhat vaguely sounds like you "might" have, usually the fan quits runing at all I believe... that is if what you say is true, if fan seems to lose power, instead of the fan itself being OLD AND WORN OUT and cant run right. So like previous poster said, maybe unhook the fan, run it off a car battery for a bit, and hopefully tell if the fan motor is good, quitely running (example no bearing noises etc). please note, most of my bikes lose a tiny bit of fan speed at idle compared to anything above idle, so that could be normal, hard to say when I am not there to see/hear it. The water jacket is the head and the cylinder nothing else, & those 2 orings are critical, and you have to be pretty sure you get them right, usually you have to hold the orings in place with a tiny amount of grease, not silicone!! One more thing, jetting or even dirty carb jet, can be an issue, cause too much heat if you are lean, and boils water out, and in near or even past dangerous levels, it used to burn the Nickel plated exhaust headers into a blue tint. Be sure you arent lean, use good fuel.

Nope, no way on nationals, Im not an expert, and this year, according to work, I wont have the time. Trying to get all I can get in before some things go "down" at work...

Yah? Well thanks lineNOway... I missed the "line" on ONE, section on sunday which cost me a 3, and a 2 before I figured it out... then toss in a couple stupid dabs where I'd never take one usually, and yep, cost me the whole "cup" on sunday... I mistakenly figured I had an off day, but naw, your right, why bother... So I should just stay home eh? FWIW, Last year, he's an expert rider, and I was just lucky that he just "gave" me one on Satuday though, hmm? I guess next year Ill just sign up for Sr Amature then (& be like everyone else). I think next year is the last year for regionals, IMHO, if this one isnt. Nobody seems to be going anywhere, I think it is economics... I hope the nationals get enough riders to keep it alive too...

John, Yep, we'll be at Meunster/Red river riding area. are you going?

May 5&6 at red river motocycle trials More texas club event info here... http://ntxtrials.com/events/12_CRCS_NTTA_050512.pdf http://ntxtrials.com It is Red river riding area information is here http://www.redrivermotorcycletrails.com/ that place is where they have the RED BULL Last man stading Enduro cross thingy.

Tony, surely it is a mis type, or mis understanding, but you needed to raise the floats, not lower them. lowering them would been if you had carb upside down. Some people enlarged the choke jet a tiny bit with drill, I read back in those day, on this very website. Instead, I think I have bigger pilot, and have a easy to do routine, to make the bike start one kick, even when temps are below freezing: step 1, open choke, put bike in 3rd gear, rock the bike back and forth approximately 3 times, plus 1 time for every layer of clothing you wear when trying to start (to be comfortable), including the undewear, weather you wear em or not, hehehehee (rocking back and forth equals 1 time). You have to hear the piston moving up and down, which is about 2/3'rds of a revolution for the crank... So nice summer day, in the morning I rock 5 times, shift to neutral so no drag, kick the bike, starts 1st kick almost every time! saves wear and tear on kicker too! PLUS, in winter I have rocked (as my heavy coat I will count generously as no less than 3 layers) plus sweatshirt, etc, about 10 times or more. one event jan, it was 34 degrees, starts second kick after rocking it 9-10 times. NO, cannot open throttle when kicking, you can just as it starts to fire though... it seems to load more fuel into cylinder for a nice rich start. My rule of thumb for rocking is becauase you dont need no where near 10 rockings, on nice days! hell I flooded it that way, thought I had a problem becuase I was chatting to someone while rocking and did it too many times.

John, I was told that it was because people were screwing screws into radiators, like we used to, and puncture the radiators, I dont know who told me this, I think it was Snell. order the fan for an older bike, you might get lucky? I dunno, didnt see much difference in the one I had with like new fan, after we'd smashed & broke the radiator on 08 raga 300, had to order the whole dang thing... I ended up drilling rivits off the 08, to get shroud loose, and using fan and shroud on the 06 NON raga 300, that I still have, when that 06 fan motor went so bad that oiling the bearing on it would not fix.

IE 8 on XP. Looks better on Win7, but I dunno. I dont have the time to hunt right now, as to why it pics a font that wont display the entire character by default, it always looks like you took a pencil erasure, just down each sentence, to my post, maybe you did Cope? lol BTW looks fine whilst typing, but I can hardly read what I finally post, and what you post, all other fonts (that I seem to care about) seem fine? now if I highlight my posts, change font in dropdown, then works better as well...

Tryals shoppe, in New york has some. http://www.tryalsshop.com/ and can "get" some of them for you.

There is more to this OP's question than even he (might) know. 1st,The part, adding the "clubman" line... I dont know why that is such a "crap on" deal to Kramit THIS doesnt "distract" from the event "nationals" for christ's sake. all it does is allow participants, from a "bigger group" of slightly lesser skilled than EXPERT riders, come compete and stuff. It put them in their own class, fer cryin out loud. Plus, It was one of the 1st times that a nationals even broke even on expenses, for example: Tishomingo Oklahoma nationals in 2010... Since it allowed about another "NOT USUALLY WANTED" 45 or so "intermediate" riders to sign up, and ride. Krammit beyotches that the "clubman" line is for beginners "with little or no trials experience" YOU FRIGGIN KIDDING ME? CLUBMAN, that is just below expert on 9 of ten clubs anywhere around me! Probably all of you guys too! Then what gets me is, we got (Club designated) "master" class riders that ride "support/age" classes? then what are all the Pro Class, Expert class, Support Classes created for? Pro is for paid to ride, Expert should be best (MASTER CLASS?) non pro riders? then support is for EXPERT classes, right? that is how I saw the difficulty when I tried it, in 2010? or was it 09?. Te Support-age, sections were "expert" sections, higher skills required, than I normally compete on each month in the "intermediate" class, clubman was intermediate. There is (dont know how to put this, or make it yet) a SERIOUS need to qualify for nationals, that stops the sand bagging. I believe a "regionals" for many states across the USA, could be made to fix this. PS... I dont know how you will read this post, but those that take the money & time, to attend nationals, will do so, for competition sake as the main reason, as it is the driving force to go and enter a competition... Well except the PRO's as it is kind of their job to compete. The rest of us, want to ride against "peers" of same class and skills, not the upper class or even lower class... Its (to me at least) not like entering a Desert race, just so you can say you had the money, time, and vehicle all bought and so I went ahead and entered "just so you could say you once raced the BAJA whatever... in 2012" I know I am NOT good enough to beat "Expert" level riders at even any club event, which I again believe the "support" class is aimed at. But I do enjoy the challenge to see where I might be, when I am riding as good ad I ever have, to see where I stack up against other support class riders. But Ill be damned if I want to waste my money just to verify, that MASTER class "so and so" can beat me... No sh*t, I knew he would beat me before I spent the damn money... and at $4 diesel, I guess I will just have to dream about it for a few years... IMHO, We ALL would be much better served if there was some kind of "check" so that pro riding masters, cant sign up for the freaking "clubman" just to win a trophy. Right now, there is no check, and if you aren't ashamed of your sandbaggin, you can ride ANY class you sign up for, well except womens and the children's classes, I think. .

Gas Gas Pro models, just do not release the clutch 100% like honda and most dirt or street bikes. I think you get used to it, Im to where I can almost say, I prefer it. the part about the clutch that keeps me happy is NOT this issue of dragging when stopped, But I allow myself to not care or accept the "compromise" becaus it is IMHO better on how well you can adjust just where it takes hold, how far you move your finger, and how stiff it is on your finger, that and I like Gas Gas . Some people will never like it , some will adapt to it .

Had a friends 200 pro (07 if you care) do this, it would run fine until about 1/3 throttle. Turned out to be the NGK plug. I myself hate NGK plugs, and they hate me, never ever have I had a plug that fired right up to a certain (not even that high) rpm. I swore it was a fuel issue, after cleaning the carb 2 times, I change plug, bike ran great. I like those Bosch Platnums myself, I change them only out of guilt after months and months.

ATF might not help clutch & in gear, drag. I believe JSE has posted a bunch of times, in responses over the years, that Excessive dragging could be warped clutch plates, or something else. 700cc was what most manuals say, we used less, like 650cc. It only helps a little bit. you do get used to it, in trials situations, Im draggin the brake anyhow and slipping the clutch, so set your idle to idle when stopped, in gear, and clutch pulled. when in neutral it isnt that much faster of an idle, but it is a little. that is what I do on the newer bikes. so what if it idles a little higher in neutral? your mileage can vary on that, depends on how much I guess.

Sorry, didnt meant to come off mad, as much as hurrying to state the facts... just was pointing out you SHOULD BE able to tell easily if you look at the cases or FLYWHEEL covers alone... of how different they are, plus exhaust and everything. you will notice that after 2003, at least, the flywheel cover is BLACK, plus is VERY different than yours in size and SHAPE, fortunately all the Pro models, have been that way for years.

Dude, it takes less than even a few seconds to look at pictures on google, let alone Gas Gas spain, Gas Gas UK, or even Gas Gas usa website, to tell which bike you have, the engine is VERY different on the "edition" verses the PRO models. Gas Gas was dumbass to go back to calling the PRO's as TXT's again around 06 you have an 02, check the Flywheel cover in pictures of new bikes compared to yours, you should be able to tell. so if you have the older engined bike, then it was 650-700cc's. The engine was redesigned and everything is smaller, over simply put. Pro models hold less oil, less weight. BTW, the older TXT or edition engines, the crank bearings get oiled from gas/OIL mixture, where the new pro's the transmission oil lubes the crank bearings. SO in pro engines we change a heck of a lot more than you probably have to in the older engine. ALso since you {might} have older engine, this litle guide is something to laminate and keep in your toolbox, I still have one. http://mypage.direct...illyd/ggman.pdf

Can anyone tell me what the hell is up with the fonts, on this board, especially in the body of the messages that is? is there an adjusment I do to the board, browser, or what, they look like sheeeit, and makes it hard as hell to read. I havent been here in a while, so looks like there's been an update... Ill try to read any helpfull replies, but Damn... Just sayin.

put washers up front but under the tank? or cut small peice of hose, to spacer it above the radiator up front, and keep the bolt able to go tight, but not squish into radiator?

This is SOOO hard to guess, really. MANY things complicate it. rider size (weight), are you riding sections as you travel down the road, which bike you are on, how fast you going/gear your in, terrain/hills etc, tire pressures... My 300 pro, gets bad "hourage" note I say hour instead of mileage/kilometer'dge. I know a buddy rode a 08 280 on a 25 mile loop, at the ute cup, missed a turn on lap one, thinks it cost him a mile, he had to push the bike that mile to the pits I think he said... Problem is for that calculation, he carried 1 - 20 oz bottle of fuel and added it to the bike somewhere in the loop. my 300 runs out quicker, friend on his 250 had plenty of fuel left over without the spare fuel. Id say fill some (at least 2) pop bottles with fuel, tape to fenders with duct tape, maybe an extra in butt pack, and go on a test run, until you run out. hopefully in a big circle type path around camp, so you can cheat the mileage back to camp when you do run out... Then measure time (if you dont have a speedo especially) dump the bottles into tank and head back... should give you some idea. I can figure about 2.5 hours of riding an event, for a tank of fuel in the '08, '10, or '12 300 pro... definitely not racing down any trails while doing this though for those 2 hours, but our trials area isnt that big, so speed isnt needed... My favorite disclaimer, "Your Mileage May Vary", seems pretty much spot-on for this post...