gasgas

Hi guys, been a while since i was on the forum, but not that i quit riding, on the contrary. Last weekend i had a small crash with the bike. I went over the bars downhill. ouch. Picking the bike up i noticed my clutch was gone. So it sucked some air in at the lever. No big deal. But i was wondering, since i still use the brake fluid, can i swap for mineral oil, without much hassle? Can i just ask for a 2005 ajp piston that is suited for oil? I believe i already have the green o rings at the clutchside.

I rode it last weekend, and the suspension is good. Throttle responce is lacking though. It wld not responce/rev like mine 250cc pro. Mapping issue, so probably changeable. Bikes feels lite and balanced. Hopping no problem, front and rear. I had to return the bike to the owner, so no more chance to play around bigger obstacles. Did not want to wreck it

Hi Trialers, do we have a cheap fix for this fan? It is outof a Pro250 year 2002. It looks like this electromotor is complete package, right?

Yes, you can hit a crank out of true. I have done that before I also install the bearings first, and they have a tight fit in the house. Thanks for yr replies.

central in the crankcase mouth where the barrel fits, you are right. Normally you try to achieve a crank that has the same play between the cases both left and right. That wld be the perfect fit. But now my crank is a little bit to one side. More play at the primarygear side , so to say, but still crank won't touch the case, lucky enough. Anyway, seemed that it was like that before splitting the cases so i let it be. Time will tell if it causes a pinch crank/case situation.

Hi guys, it was maintenance time, so replaced a few bearings inside the cases. Did everything as per instructions. Shrink the crank in the freezer, heating the rightside bearing to get it wider, dropping in the crank untill she bottomed. Putting the leftside case on, has a slip-on fit on all bearings, so no sweat there. Closing her up, with the bolts, nice and tidie. Everything turns and goes, great. Only thing is, the crank is not evenly centered between the cases. The rightside, where the primarygear sits, has more clearence between the cranksheek and case as the other side. Can not center is by hiting the left, so it is as it is. I can live with it, as the piston and big-end has enough side clearence anyway, but have others noticed this too? Stupid thing is, i have done this job one other time before, but did not noticed it then. So any one who is experienced with the job, pls reply. Thanks in advance.

Peter, a little late, but Thanks for the answers. Rgds George

Hi, i have a pro 2002, the mother all pro's, and the dealer is having a hard time to find me the original piston. The original piston comes with a "dyke"-ring and normall ring. I asked him to give me a normall piston but there seems a bit of a confusion abouth that the the cilinders differ from 2002 untill 2008, or so. Is he correct? And also are there pistons nowadays who has intake windows in the skirt? Thanks

Peter, Thanks for the info. With my 2002 crank, i can remove the sleeves for the cranktaps? I always thought they were one solid piece with the crank ?! I already discovered that i need the 6205 ETN9 bearing since these have a smaller innerring and fits the sleeves of the crank. Great help Thanks George

Sorry Mikee, i mend the code like 6205 c4 ...... or c3.... and more if there is. They gave me a 6205c4 bearing from skf explorer. A nine balls variant. The former bearing was a 6205 c4 without explorer on the side and was a 8 balls. The first one, from the dealer, did not fit over the cranktap because of the bigger inner rim. So there are different versions of the 6205 c4/c3 bearings ?! edit: i changed the 6305 into 6205. I see that in the manual of 2003 the nbr listed for the mainbearings is\M01216002/2, 6205 ETN9 2x Can we assume that the bearings changed tru the years?

Hi, wld anyone know the code of the pro mainbearings? And wld they differ within years or did they stay the same all years? Thanks in advance, George ps: reason i ask, i recvd a different mainbearing from dealer as was in it. So are there probably more codes that fit?

Rend, sorry to tell you but there is no exact amount of turns for the mixture screw. You have to listen to yr bike to determine how many turns you need. Out is richer, in is leaner. Your bike/carb may need 3 turns, mine 2,5 etc.

As Jon said, check the carb settings right away. Never assume that something is by the book and check everything that you feel you savely can do. Offcourse not everybody is "bike maintenance capable", but try to become one. It will save yr day, one day.

Wow, looking at these pics on the france site, it is unbelievable how low and small this engine looks. Like a twostroke. Where are the better photo's? I want to know, again, whether they used a centrifugal flywheel! ps:very slow response compared to that montesa hype years ago.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=14717 Wauw first spy picture, pitty it is such a bad picture, of the GG Pro 4 stroke. Can we send somebody to the hills with a telelens for better pictures;)? I want to know whether they went for the centrifugal flywheel or just stayed with a conventional one. Anywhere better pictures?

Steve, yr talented, and love the gear

I can, i don't know if you can My bigend bearing went in one year. Because of water/mud. I was lucky though. I frequently check the piston tru the exhaust side of the cilinder. Just take the pipe off and shine a light. The engine runned flawlesly, so, you see how difficult it is to say when it will go. I left my engine with water/mud for 24 hours before i went cleaning it. It swallowed water with mud, and i removed the cilinder and engine out of the frame as i was sure it needed really good cleaning. I washed it with a mix of oil/petrol/wd40 and did this several times. I thought i had it covered, but apparently not so. The bigend bearings started flaking and the piston showed that as like it had swallowed sand. Piston was completely sanded at the exhaust skirt. That is how i realised it needed a new bigend/etc. So, when you keep a close eye at yr piston, maybe you can get away with it for a couple of months... But, writing this, i assume you have it running by now, do you?! Be aware that when the bigend/smallend goes, piston hits the top and screws up the engine real bad.

what do you mean by to late jam??? engine or gearbox seize? He and I meant that water kills the bearings. When water is left into the engine for more than a few hours it washes away the oil films and starts with its ugly game called rust. Although the engine will run properly again the rust in time will ...!!!! kill the bearings. Especially the lower end bearing will start peeling off its chrome layer. That is the why you always need to get the egine started as soon as possible to get the bearing turning in oil again, evaporating the water. Sorry to worry you but as you have not started yr engine by now, very big chance your bearings are ruined.

Although i don't have a 125cc i feel that i can answer yr question as i run the same carb. You are experiencing a lean spot of the bottom, and you can cure it by increasing the fuel. Since you told us everything is spottless and hopefully that goes for the airfilter aswell, the one thing you must try is increasing the fuel by opening the choke a little and see what happens then. My guess is that you will get a little "fourstroking" but without the lean spot when you crack the throttle. When needed open the choke more. Now you really know for sure it is a lean spot. Good luck, and tell the outcome asap.

I broke mine 2002 airbox and ordered a new one. They sent me a 2003 or 2004 and fitted right on. A little fiddling but nothing serious, so i assume although the airbox has changed over the 2002 model, it still has the same configuration.

No, sorry, it is not normall. Right away with start up the clutch shld work. The clutch works with a disc-spring and debris cld become a problem when they have accumulated over the years. I assume this bike is not brand new? Start with cleaning the clutch inside-out. And change the clutch(brake)hydraulic fluid while yr to it. That wld probably solve it.

Will Montesa put all their cards(money) on Toni Bou now, as he showed how easy it is to win on a 4RT!

Just bleed it stubbornly, and put the bike sideways so the clutchcover is facing up a little, so a little air bubble cld rise from there aswell. Offcourse contamination of the masterseals etc cld be the problem aswell. So in case of no succes dismantle and clean the whole lot of it. Btw we use ATF in the gearbox but DOT 4 in the clutch system for 2002 Pro's.

As long as it is a mix i put in the tank it is fine with me. I used TTS, i used biogradable outboard stuff with funny names, i now bought a oil for mopeds. I normally use the cheapest All oils come from the same factory anyway so why bother. Only the outer package is different and the price

Gtgasgas, the bike is already hot, so the starterjet is not in the picture. To have a feel for the problem, you must tell how the bike is starting when cold, with or without choke, how it runs when cold and warm etc. How is yr plug.....what heat range...? All this info must lead to a solution. Normally a 2stroke, when hot, must start with a one healthy kick. When not, mostly it was already running lean/rich etc in the first place.