gasgas

Yes, more grip is the answer to yr bizarre question. You can do a burnout to solve this

Yes, sometimes that trick works. I do it myself going from 3rd into 2nd.

The snail cams can be accurate but don't count on it. Check it first with a measure thingie Take axle of swingarm till axle of wheel, both sides wld be wise.

that screw is only there for letting escape the airpressure which build up during rides. So the refill is done by unscrewing the top.

Although my avatar is showing the clutch ;)last time i didn't really checked it for freeplay. I imagine that you only feel axial play and not radial play? There is always a amount of axial play to compensate for heat build up. Just make a mental note and check later on again. Radial play you shld be aware of, cause then things can get ugly. Although again a bearing has a certain amount of radial play also otherwise it wld lock up again with heat buildup. Bearing tolerances shld be within 3 / 5 micron and is hardly to feel when you wiggle them. So play itself won't mean trouble automatically.

Oceanvibe, i have this problem going from 3rd into 2nd. Upshifting no problemo, back almost everytime trouble. I also checked the camscrew with no succes. I just keep on riding it, untill i plan on opening the cases. Then i probably find a worn/bend shifterfork. Sorry i can't help at the moment, but in a few months time i can

R2w, you just sound like my father Honda, i feel you know more about the forks. Have you done anything to them or are you talking in generals here. Is there anyone who has seen the marzocchies internally and compared them with the GG units? Aren't the GG units of the 2002 years marzocchies anyway? I will try the heavy oil to see what that can do, but in the meantime i am closing up the oil holes in the push rod to see what that brings. Btw i am closing the holes by sticking a rod in the push rod so it is not anything drastic.

with a new piston they normally advice you to do three heat up/cool down cycles before starting to ride it normally. The piston heat up and cool down cycle makes for good bed in.

yes, keeping the front of the ground is one way to go. But my "teacher " is learning me the basics of trial first which is basic turning and all that old classic kind of riding. Only then he says i may be become a good trial rider. That i am more critical is not really the case. I just like to go into things and since i have changes my mx-bike front suspension so many time, it is now time for the trial bike to coop with my mechanic skills . I just see a lot of flaws in the concept of the 2002 suspension, which i feel can be improved with minimal cost/labour. There is for example no anti-bottoming system. Although that there is a cone availble. It just seems that the pro's can easily make this fork better. Everbody is very happy with the marzocchies nowadays probably because of the extra's like bottoming cones and progressive rebound and compression adjustment. Anyway i keep on fiddling and report back with any "breaktru's" Btw how in heavens name can the rebuilt these sachs shock?

r2w, i know about the different legs/comp versus reb. I just can not control rebound damping except for the latest part of travel. And the latest part is only controlled by a oil lock system. Today i got a alu pipe of 4mm od with 2 mm id, which i put in the pushrod. The result is better, but will experiment further. The problem seems in too much freeflow of oil tru several holes in the push rod. So the rebound piston is not doing any work.

Duck today again in my GG frontsuspension as i am not yet satisfied with its behavior. It seems that the adjuster on top for the rebound can't do its job as i feel i am missing a crucial part inside. The missing part is the aluminium rod that sits inside the cartridge pushrod. When i look at exploded views of the 2005 suspension the alu-rod is there but in the 2002 and 2003 views there is no. I am aware of the difference in brands but the suspension is more or less the same. Anyone out there who knows more about it. The problem is that the rebound is only working the last 30mm and i hope that with the alu-rod the whole stroke is tunable.

Dragging can occure as the plates swell. However i don't know if nowaday plates swell like they used to in 2002. That is why they suggested atf dexron III in the first place. When swelling is the problem a thinner metal plate can cure the problem right away. They are cheap and in different thicknesses. But first try to renew the oil. Old oil can produce drag. Bleed the system. And make sure the mastercilinder is properly set. Opening the clutch cover is no hassle. You won't have to drain the water. Just remove the frontpipe and the kickstart, put the machine down on one side(otherwise you will loose oil),loosen all the bolts and off it goes. ps:look at my avatar that is your clutch also

Problem cld be the worldchampionships though. No 2t allowed as per 200? (2008?) So, they must be bussy with the concept. Emissions are no longer a problem for 2strokes, the fim is!

what type of GG?

I want to bring this one to the top again. Just recently a dutch trial rider mentioned that they are still bussy with that sidevalve engine. Does somebody know more or is it a hoax.

I personally always buy used bikes and am used to the fact that i have to go deep into the bike to get things working again to specs. But then buying a new bike and discovering it has got a flaw like ... not running like it shld. That is a real pain. It is sad though that he has made up his mind in buying a other bike. Now we will probably never know what was wrong with it.

An other tuning advice. Look at the carb and intake traject and picture the air flow. See where there are any obstructions. Look for ridges and fabrication errors creating low pressure spots etc that will affect the flow. In this area getting rid of all the obstructions will generate more air into the motor hence more power. Will cost you nothing other then that dremel you already got and it is a nice feeling knowing you did some tuning other then just fiddling with the jets. Be aware that more air will mean more fuel normally so keep that in mind. Tip: where the airboot goes on the carb is a big error spot. It is easy to dremel and create more flow. You can even use a round file to do this.

pogbird, keep us informed will you?

smart people, yr mam and dad and still their little baby.

Today put some new plates in, and overall came to the important 9.75mm. Also discovered that one of the clutch lift fingers was sticking out and made the clutch action notchy. Put this finger upside down back in and this solved that problem. Now the clutch is smooth again. No more slipping when revving and no more notchiness when slipping Did a test ride this evening and i am happy with the result. Also tried a half mineral/synthetic 5w30 to create even more smoothness but didn't make to much, if any, difference. Thnks for everybodies help, till next time

so the 4t are coming... and Cabestany had a off day?

i think that is the meaning

No mainbearing problems with a Pro as they are lubed by the gearbox oil Bigend/smallend however are exposed to the water and need immediate action to get them oiled again. Waiting too long makes them rusting right away. So never leave them for a day, like i once did Get the motor running right away, preferable with new airfilter, and you saved it. Change gearoil at home and you are oke.

Geomoney, read mine post, above, same deal. You are not alone

Oke, Subira, So it is +0.1mm only. Then my problem is not enough tension on the disc spring. And that is why she is slipping when twisting the throttle in 5th gear. Maybe this also addresses the notchyness when slipping the clutch, although i am going to try a semi synthetic 5W30. This a little thicker viscosity and shld there for have smoother clutch action. Keep you informed. Due to the disc spring type clutch, this clutch works with rather narrow specifications. I understand now.