rev. victor

Jon, Thanks for the response. You are always so helpful. I will do just that, replace everything. Thanks again.

Here's a tech question for the crowd. I'm tearing down the motor in my 1996 GG 270. This fall the motor started knocking bad. I pulled it apart and the big end rod bearing is gone. I found a supply of parts but can't seem to find the spec's for bore size, crank journals, etc. I scoured the web but no luck so far. Does anyone have the knowledge I seek? Any help or hints are welcome.

The shop that tore down the motor said the bore is in good shape. It measured out as being in tolerances, but the piston measured around .007-.008 out of spec.

I have a 1999 Gas Gas TXT 321 with a shot piston. It didn't owe me much after 10 years hauling my large butt around and getting overheated. I'm surprised it lasted that long. So the my dealer is saying that Gas Gas USA doesn't have any. Mine needs a "B" piston and of course that's the one they don't have. Anybody have any leads? Wiesco doesn't make one, nor do any other pistons makers that I can tell. If your local shop as a decent part selection I love if you'd drop me their name. I really want to fix the mighty 321. --Victor

I've got new fork springs coming for my '99 321TXT. I'm wondering how I remove the springs from the damper rod assembly. It doesn't have the nut at the top of the damper rod like the newer style forks. So before I start messing with it how do I disassemble it? Couldn't find any info it the maintenance video or on the web. Thanks for any help.

Jon thanks for the tips. My biggest concern was to not over whelm the rebound with too stiff springs. For those interested I was referred to Brad Lowe Racing in Michigan, US. (888-766-0619). I have no personal experience with them but was referred to them by a Trials dealer.

I'm looking for stiffer springs for my '99 GG 321. I am a very large rider, 330 lbs 6'8" tall (23 stone and 2+ meters tall). The heavy duty springs for riders in the states are no longer available. I found a shop that can custom make springs for me but am unsure what rates to use. I believe the stock rate was .42 kg for the front springs and 7.2 kg for the rear spring. Please correct me if this is inaccurate. Conventional wisdom says I should go for a 20% increase in the spring rates. That would put me at .50 kg for the fronts and 8.6 kg for the rear. I would love some input if I'm on the right track. Any larger riders or wise wrenches have any experience with stiffer springs? Thanks for any help. By the way, I do bill myself as the World's Largest Trials Rider.

I have found that some stiffer springs and a set of bar risers did all I needed, I am crappy rider. That being said I few bikes actually fit me. I just adapt to the bike.

I usually smash into it at Mach 2 in a hopes the bike and I will be hurled to the top. I might try the Mr. Stretch thing next time, thanks for the tip. "World's Largest" can also be read as "Least Competitive".

My crashes tend to be spectacular.

My club has dubbed me the World's Largest Trials Rider. At 6'8" and 325 lbs (2 meters and 23.2 stone) I'm the biggest I ever met. Any other colossal riders out there?

Thanks fellas, worked like a charm. I actually adjusted the clutch screw all the way in and went for a ride. It took about 5 minutes of 3rd and 4th gear ripping around the block for the clutch to free itself. Once adjusted back to spec the clutch worked perfect. Thanks again. Much more fun the tearing the clutch apart. At 6'8" I gave the neighbors a chuckle.

I bought a TY80 for nephew. I got it running like a top but still have one problem, the clutch is frozen. I know it's not uncommon for a bike that been sitting to have the clutch plates freeze up. I tried riding it in first and second gear with the clutch pulled and then I would stand on the rear brake. It didn't work. After about 10 attempts I figured I see if anyone has a tip for freeing the clutch without pulling the case cover. If I do pulling the engine cover I assume the oil pump has to be removed to fully pull the case cover. How hard is it to pull the oil pump and are there any pitfalls to avoid? Thanks for the input.

Thanks for the input. For the time being I'll test the pump per the manual and monitor it. If it appears to be suspect I'll examine removal. The system works well on my DS7 of that vintage but wasn't sure if they normally yanked off on off-road machines. I'm surprised that Yamaha went to the trouble on a youth machine.

Just picked up a TY80 for my nephew to ride. Bike had been sitting but is mostly all there and after a quick carb cleaning it started right up. I am curious about the oil pump. Do most people run the oil pump, or is it removed and the bike run on premix? I know on my old DS7 and RDs we'd drop the pump for track use. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.

Exact same thing happened on my 99 TXT. Talking with some of the gurus it sounds like it is not unheard of on GG of that vintage. I replaced the sterring bearing and the stem. Cost about $90 us. You will need to take the triple clamp into a machine shop to press the old stem out and put the new one in.

Had a mild crash over the weekend on my 99 321 TXT. Was a tough section but not terribly dramatic. After going down I realized something was amiss with the steering. I looked down and saw that my top triple clamp was about 1/2" forward of where it should be. A closer examination revealed the steering stem had sheared off right above the top bearing. My question is this a weak spot for GG? Other than staying upright anything I should do to not repeat this?

I've got a 1999 321 TXT. Bought used with no owners manual or maintenance video. I asked my dealer about a manual or maintenance video and he just laughed. Anyone got a tip on a good source older maintenance info?

Howard, Thanks, that was my inclination. Most other carbs are like that, but wanted to make certain. What a change from the vintage stuff. Last bike was a Ossa MAR. Night and day.

Just pickedd up a 1999 321 TXT. It's my first modern trials ride and have been going through it changing fluids, adjusting, etc. It has the stock Delorto carb. Question is about the two screws on the carb. I know one is mixture one is idle, I just don't know which is which and wanted to find out before playing with them. Didn't get a manual with the bike so any help would be great.

The look of the MK2 would be fine. I am intent on this machine being a rider not a museum piece. An alloy tank would look very nice as I have never seen one in the US.

Thanks for all the tips. The tank appears to sound but leak more fuel than a little weeping at the seams. I will probably try a lining, if that fails I guess a call to Sammy M is in order.

I have a 73 Ossa MAR that I am freshening up for some vintage action. Currently the tank on the bike leaks rather badly and i am trying to do a little research as to the best method of sealing it. I've had look luck with pour sealers like Kreem and POR15 on metal tanks but this is my first dealing with a fiberglass tank. So my questions are: 1. Do the standard pour in style sealer work with fiberglass? 2. If not, what should I use? 3. What is the best way to remove all traces of premix before treating? MEK or something else. Thanks for the input and suggestions.