rodt

Are the lights on all the time ( no on/off switch, just dip) If so it sounds like the feed wire to the dip switch has a bad connection or the wire is broken. For the MOT if push comes to shove you can cover all the lights up and get a day time MOT.

That was a quick reply. Thank you for the info.

I have a rear wheel which I think is from a 240 Fantic. Could anyone confirm this or have an idea as to what it is from please. Thank you.

Thank you for the information.

Hello, I have just bought a 2002 Beta Alp 200. Could anyone please tell me what size sprockets they use for Trials use (LDT) and road use. Many thanks.

The only shims on the crankshaft would be the Big End Crankpin thrust washers

Google Yamaha TTR 125 wiring diagram and you will find a pdf Yamaha manual, which has a wiring diagram . Seeing as the motor is a TTR 125 that might well help. I couldn't get it to link to this page.

If it has the original wipac round coil in the stator plate, remove the HT lead but leave the low tension side connected to the points. Run a wire from the points to a Japanese 6v ac coil, put that under the tank. Fully advance the stator plate, set the points gap at 10 thou and bend the points spring a bit to give it more tension. Fit a new condenser. I used a 6v dc coil and battery on the D7 Bantam I had. It was a lot better with that set up.

To the best of my knowledge that method of marking was used in Ireland. Early post war marking was 3 for footing ( dab or paddle ) and 5 for a stop. 1 mark for a dab came in in the mid fifties and remained as 1, 3, 5 until early 70's, 73 ish when the 2 for two dabs came in. Didn't make much difference to me when I started riding in Schoolboy events in 72 on a £15 D1 plunger Bantam as best I could hope for was a 3

Hello. Sometimes it is a bit of grit or dirt in the seal and can be cleaned out using a film negative. I have done this with success. Certainly worth a try before stripping your forks. if you're really keen you could buy one of these !! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seal-Mate-Tool-Sealmate-Fix-Leaking-Fork-Seals-Quick-Easy-Fast-Affordable-/121059312192?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1c2fb28240

I have a Scorpa TYS 125 and I am more than happy with it. It struggles in muddy conditions but I put that down to operator error There is one on Ebay at the moment. Right money I would say. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-SCORPA-TYS-125-F-BLUE-WHITE-Trials-GasGas-Sherco-Beta-Montesa-/151498431709?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item2346029cdd

Fantastic video from a classic No stop era, when you only used the clutch to put the bike in gear

Back in the day Champion L10 was the choice for anything with a short reach plug This should be a far better recommendation http://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_22_32&products_id=153

I know its a bit late but those forks might well be from a C11G. is the thread left hand? I had C11 forks in a D1 40 years ago. When bantams were worth about £15

I know its a bit late now but here's the Peter Gaunt original, 1973 SSDT . Sorry for poor quality