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tony1

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  1. search 'motion pro fuel line coupler' .... any bike dealer should be able to get them.
  2. Thanks for the info -thats where they are running now - sure doesn't seem like a good setup though - the gap between the bottom yoke and frame at full lock is tighter then the hose is wide...I'll see if theres a better way and post if I find one....thanks again
  3. Hi Does anyone have a picture or description of the proper throttle cable, switch wiring, and brake hose routing from the bars to the engine? The used bike I bought has them all running between the right lower yoke and frame which doesn't seem correct.. There doesn't seem to be enough room, so the previous owner ziptied a chunk of foam on the yoke for padding but of course they are still getting pinched when turning right. I think I could find better places for them all but if anyone knows the right way it would save me some fooling around. thanks
  4. tony1

    250 Reeds

    Boyeson says; "We have Boyesen single stage carbon fiber reeds available for the 2002-2007 Scorpa SY250. The price for the reed set is $50.95 USD + shipping. (We do not have dual-stage reeds available for that bike.) If you have any additional questions, or if you would like to place an order, please contact us. Boyesen Engineering 8 Rhoades Road Lenhartsville, PA 19534 USA tel # 610-756-6818 / 800-441-1177 fax # 610-756-4102
  5. tony1

    Fork Seals.

    This might work......... **disclaimer** ...this was a trick we used back in the day....the Paioli parts blowups I have seen look just like a 1980's Honda fork inside..........but I have not tried it on my Scorpa .....***** If you 'slide hammer' an excessively tight seal out, you risk damaging the bushing or washer since you are hammering the bushing against a washer against the seal...what we would do for the really tight ones was remove the springs, compress the leg within a couple of inches of bottoming out, then totally fill the fork with oil [any kind of oil] and install the cap, leaving no air bubbles inside. Then stand it in the shop's hydraulic press, and push down until the seal is 'hydraulically' forced out of the leg by oil pressure. No chance of any damage, but it can be messy. As long as there is no air in the leg, the seal will slowly move upward without blowing out. Once the seal is broken loose you can dump the oil and lightly hammer it out as usual. hope this helps
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