keychange

Yes I had already tried half a kilo of bolts - and yes they knocked the scale off but 2 weeks later the rust was back and blocking the filter/idle jet

My TLR 200 had a badly rusted tank when I inherited it 12 months ago. Initially I tried the molasses treatment - 10 days submerged improved it but it didn't really control it so I fitted inline filters and became used to cleaning the idle jet. I have since tried other rust converters but once you rinse them out it is rusting again before the rinse water dries. However riding with a mate on his very sweet Bultaco M125 a few weeks ago and he was going through the rigours of draining his tank after a ride because of ethanol concerns and this made me a bit concerned about what may be happening on my Cota 247. So I decided to try and resolve both issues and I found an Aussie product KBS Gold Standard Bike Tank kit - completely ethanol proof for fibreglass and full rust treatment and even seals small cracks. The kit I purchased for $55 was intended for a 20 litre so I decided that should be enough for both of my 6 litre tanks and sure enough the 3 part kit - cleaner, rust converter and sealer was easily adequate for the two tanks ... in fact I cleaned my two spare 247 tanks while I was at it ( I have the original 247T and a full trials tank which came with the bike). What really impressed me was the invitation on the instructions to ring technical support before starting - which I did and really nice lady gave me some good tips eg: use the rust converter even on the fibreglass tank as it provides a better etch.... in fact I called again to check if I should do the rust conversion twice... she said not required.. but I did anyway. Don't get me wrong the rust conversion was the best I have used - it came up really clean and I only did it again because the first treatment was the start of wet cold few days and so I wanted to start again on a really clean surface. I completed the process today and the sealant is satisfying metallic look and it looks like it has covered both tanks very smoothly - the excess sealant just drains off. I can't test it as it cures for another 4 days but I am hopeful and will let you know over coming months how it holds up.

here is the result

I'll do my best ... if I mount it more clockwise it vibrates against the heat shield. Works fine for me now where it is.

Connected green/white to CDI green and we are away

I used the Clymer because the wiring diagrams are clear and coloured - but unfortunately not correct for my TLR I just dug out my scanned copy (not great resolution) of the original workshop manual and sure enough there is a Green/White lead from the pick-up goes to green (earth) on the CDI - I'll try that tomorrow.

When I got my TLR200 it had all the lights, speedo and ignition switch installed and so I removed all of these except the ignition switch as the mounts had to be ground off in order to remove it. I have just been doing a tidy up and I had triple clamp off and so I decided to remove the ignition switch and what was left of the wiring harness. Now it won't kick - completely dead. I have had the bike complete stripped engine out etc I can get measurable power (multimeter) from black/red lead from the alternator and there is only the green, black/white, black/red and blue/yellow and plain black leads from the CDI - should be simple but even with the kill switch disconnected from the circuit I can' get any measurable current out of the CDI. There is a green/white lead on the same harness shield as the blue/yellow lead but I can't find anywhere it belongs nor can I see a reference to it in the Clymer. Also should there be any current from the pickup coil? Any constructive suggestions welcome

I had same problem with my TLR - trying to arrange a convenient and reliable foot peg holder was a real annoyance and so I went down the bending path. I simply used a propane torch (not small a disposable unit) and that got it hot enough to bend - using an assortment of extensions to act as levers. I had to bend it out first and then bend the actual foot part back up in order to keep an angle that would stop your foot slipping off. Not something you want to do if you have good or new chrome work. It only took half an hour and I am very pleased with the result - it really doesn't look all that different - it is just mounted slightly more advanced so that the foot end doesn't vibrate against the header pipe.

I get two, three or four logs (12 to 18 inch thick) and I tie them together with galvanised guy-wire ( as used on rotary clothes line ) and tighten them with a small turnbuckle - you can vary the height and depth of the obstacle easily or even stick a few bricks underneath the middle logs - I find it quite stable for my use. The wire doesn't seem to get in the way and is gentle on the tyres.

Well spare parts are hardly common so why take the risk if ruining a perfectly good spare flywheel

"back in the day" there were plenty of spares - sounds a bit short sighted to me

Yep very true - we tend to take our bodies for granted.

What spurred me to check was I had dropped my TLR on a downhill section, front wheel slid out on a rock and the bike ended on its side stuck between a few sapplings. The effort of dragging the bike out of the scrub on a steep slope, getting it upright and started added to the riding was demanding. Then I realised that I hadn't brought any water but was close to home and so I headed back to the house. I was aware that I was very hot and breathing very heavily and so I wondered just how hard the heart was working. It took me several minutes to find and remember how to start the monitor and when it did I was still pumping at around 105 bpm (there is a monitor on my exercise bike runs from the hand grips and the two units are very close in their readings). But again I stress I am not panicking and I am not going to stop riding. I think the danger for me is when I ride trail/trials with other more advanced riders and I feel the need to keep up - if I drop the bike I jump up and try and get upright and moving so as not to hold others up. I know that 2 or 3 hours of this and I am exhausted - and I mean sick bucket exhausted. As a result I am practicing in order to reduce the drops, improve technique and build my upper body strength and that is working - but I think I need to really remind myself to take a breather.

It is an indicative figure - generally it is recommended that you don't exceed it or stay on it for any length of time. But it isn't a hard rule - my 60 year old brother-in-law is an Iron Man - swims 2 kms - cycles 160 kms then runs a marathon. I am sure his heart could jump start a D9 Caterpillar. But for your average person they recommend that you exercise at somewhere between 60% and 80% of your upper limit.

The only really accurate method is calculated from an ECG while you run on a treadmill. However there are a few standard measures and the most common is 220 minus your age so for me at 57 it equals 163bpm. On the same scale oxbikes maximum rate is 156 - but maybe he had his measured under ECG and he may be quite fit. Another formula supposedly more reliable is 205.8 − (0.685

Spark plug wet still suggests flooding - I have a Mikuni carb that I have never been able to get right on my Montesa and symptoms sound the same - try this - before starting for first time - turn the fuel on until you are confident there is fuel in the carbie - then turn the fuel off and try and start it. If it starts let it idle for 15-20 seconds then work the throttle - if it behaves ok and stays ok until the fuel runs out then you have the same problem I do. Now for the bad new - if I knew how to fix the problem I would be using the Mikuni now. I have tried jetting and levels and slide clip positions and still can't figure it out - can you borrow another carb from someone to try out? Of course if the above is the case then you can simply buy a replacement carbie because at least you know what the problem is.

When I started riding with some local trials guys last year the level of exertion did concern me and at that time my doctor encouraged me to continue although my blood pressure was high and thus the weight loss. My blood pressure is now normal without need for medication and normal resting heart rate is around low 60's bpm. I am also reasonably fit for my age - walking briskly around 5 kms most days or riding exercise bike when weather turns foul. When my sons, all late 20's and fit come to visit and we go for a ride they give out long before I do. So maybe my technique (or lack of it) is a contributing factor in fact I sure of it but maybe it is also just a bloody hard work out. I don't plan to stop riding but now I am aware of it I might take more regular and slightly longer breathers.... I just thought this was a significant reading and so maybe other older riders, especially those coming back or starting late as I did should be aware of just how much a load this great fun sport can put on your body.

I had heart monitor from when I used to ride a mountain bike. Out of interest I put it on today as I rode around my new practice track set up in a nearby paddock ... my heart rate peaked at 167 which as a 57 year old is around my limit and averaged around 140 bpm for 30 minutes, imagine what it was doing before I lost 10Kgs weight. Then again probably explains how I lost the weight, however this was by no means a difficult ride - I have worked much harder on some rides and one has to stop think - should I stop more often and think longer before a I blow a valve :wacko:

Most people know not to forget to add oil and so while lack of oil is catastrophic it is not common among riders with half a brain. A rich oil mix means by definition a leaner fuel (petrol/air) mix and leads to a hotter running engine - I agree not as instantly catastrophic but none the less can be serious simply because the issue is not recognised ie: my engine is running too hot - I better add more oil or a cooler plug Neither of which addresses the air/fuel mix issue. - Not a problem when riding quietly but serious damage can occur under regular hard load.This is a common issue for chain saw users who use their 25:1 lawn mower mix in their 50:1 saw - it overheats very quickly.

You didn't reply on the "remove plug and check if wet" - yes please still do that. Otherwise - now check for leaks between carbie and inlet - there are many ways to do this some people spray water, other spray fuel or LGP gas - whatever you use you are listening for a change in engine revs. Finally see if you can borrow a CDI and see how that works - do this last as CDI's are not cheap

You are not allowed to say f@&%ken in relation to a Yamaha or Honda but it is allowable for Montesa or Bultaco. Words like ars*^$le or di$%*ead are only acceptable when referring to the forum moderator or a monoshock rider - I hope this helps with the post problem. As for bike problem it is unlikely to be a fuel pressure problem as long as your tank is properly ventilated (usually a fuel line heading to the steering column) check to ensure it is not blocked. But sounds more like a carbie issue. Start by make sure the air filter is clean ( I mean new ) and then ensure everything in the carbie is clean ie: all jets are clear etc. Then check that the float level is correct and that the float needle seat valve is working properly (otherwise it floods and outcome is as described. Then replace and ensure you are using the correct spark plug and ensure that you are running correct fuel/oil mix - contrary to common opinion more oil can do more damage than too little oil. Having done all that report back

Yes correct I am talking about the float bowl - if your carbie is flooding and/or your fuel tap isn't turned off correctly the engine chamber could be loaded with fuel - first kick with a dry plug and it might splutter but as soon as you open it up it will die and stay dead until it dries out.

Doesn't sound like it has a chance to get hot and as he says it then won't start for the rest of the day. When this next happens turn fuel off and remove the plug - then kick the bike over and check if fuel mix is being pumped out of the plug hole - if so it is flooding and loading the engine chamber with fuel - if so check your float level and make sure the the needle seat is blocking fuel when the chamber is full - from memory the Mikuni float level should be set using measurements upside down ( do a google search Mikuni float level) but you can test if the seat is sealing off the flow by working the float and either gently blowing through the fuel line or allowing fuel to flow through

Sounds like it is flooding (loading the engine with fuel. If you remove the plug is it wet? Try another plug - a plug that sparks outside the chamber may not spark inside the chamber. Did you fit the piston the correct way round?

I pulled the kickstart off and heated with LPG torch - a couple of bends one and then correct the angle of the foot and bingo works well and misses the peg .... the fencing wire was real pain in the A Cheers