keychange

It's usually called the 'needle and seat' where the float needle (or needle valve) is one part and the brass bore that it goes into is the seat (it is not really a jet. The needle can wear and so can the seat - also the seat can move - it is simply held in place by the tight fit but can be adjusted. If what you have done has improved the overflow then there is no reason to suspect that any of the parts are worn - dirt from you tank is the most common cause and so you should have a small in-line fuel filter and replace it often. Cleaning your carby is a standard part of ownership - so get used to it - after 12 months ownership I can remove, strip and replace mine it in around 15 minutes - I think I could do it blindfolded You should keep a spare needle anyway as it will eventually get scored or worn from all the rubbish coming through and they are cheap enough. If your Amal is a 627 ( as is my 247) simply make sure that you quote that when you buy the new parts and they will be the correct ones. The needle and seat are one of the few parts in a carbie that don't come in a range of sizes. You can also get repair kits from the manufacturer http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/ if you are ordering these make sure you check all the current jet sizes in your existing setup to ensure you keep the same settings ( jets have a small number written on the side near the top) - take a look at the technical tips http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/Technical.aspx

Hi - just checked my forks and as I suspected my left oil was low - has been bouncing off to the left .... no sign of leaks but it has been 6 months or more since I checked - anyway my lousy Spanish manual says 190cc but it has been wrong before and this doesn't seem like much for a decent size fork - can anyone please confirm the front fork capacity for a 1976 Cota 247

John Haberbosch Rocky Mountains Montesa john@rmmontesa.com - a good guy won't rip you off.

I'm not sure you are both talking about the same thing. The float needle is NOT the long thin needle in the centre. The float needle is under the float ie: remove the float by sliding the holding bar out and you will find a short (1/2 inch) and thickish (1/8th inch) brass needle with what looks like a teflon point and that is the needle that controls the flow of fuel into the carbie bowl. A very tiny bit of muck is all it takes to stop the float needle from closing off the fuel flow and as a result you get fuel overflowing. Have a close look at the following http://www.oldbritts.com/amal_tun.html

I don't believe these characters at JB Tools - when I raised the issue they responded "I can't be more of a technical assistant, we just distribute the tools." - no suggestion or offer to replace etc and when I suggest negative feedback they said "The item was not defective.....you and misunderstanding the idea of customer service, use the power of the internet or Electronic Specialty support to troubleshoot your problem" To which I said "I have every reason to think the item is defective - and nothing you have done or said has allayed - but yes I am investigating other advice in forums" And finally "Our customer service is beyond satisfactory, we have great response times. You can tell your circle of people whatever you woud like, it should be about how you got an ES 328 at the best price on the globe,... It's all about buyers applying their knowledge from there." So the knowledge I want to share with the forum is - DON'T BUY ONLINE FROM JB Tool Sales

I bought one of these ES328 EZ-Tach +PLUS from JBTools US on ebay around $60 AUD delivered - I got it mainly to more accurately set the timing on my Cota 247 . But I started with my TLR200 set the unit to 4stroke single and it told me I was idling at 2400 rpm - so I assumed it has a waste spark on the top of the exhaust stroke and set it to 2 stroke and sure enough fluttered a bit over 1200 rpm. Using same settings on the Montesa and it indicated 2400 then 400 then 1200 then 2400 all over the shop and it doesn't matter where I place the unit use it or whether I am using the clip on sensor. Was I being foolish expecting something this cheap to work - or is there a trick I am missing ?

Hi I have a 1976 Cota 247 and I got hold of a new tank which has the half trail type seat and large gold lettering COTA 247 (not the full 247T but much bigger than trials seat - I have seen similar setup on 348/349's ) The tank sits nicely but the mounting points on the side (no holes drilled - it is unused) are at least 10mm too wide from my frame and I am wondering if the later model 247s had a wider frame. I am asking because I have a guy interested but don't want to sell him something that won't fit.

Thanks mcman56 - the rattle has been there since I got it but that was only 4 months ago and I figured it was time to have a closer look - the bike runs fine I really love riding it but I have nothing to compare with - my Cota 247 is heaps more powerful as one would expect from a 250 2 stroke. I checked bikebandit but their price and postage to OZ are bit high so I went on eBay and have ordered a set of Lisle Tappet gauges from J&B Tools in USA for a very reasonable price and also found they have a small electronic tune up tacho (EZ Tach +PLUS) I got the two items for only than $65 USD delivered - thank god for the strong Aussie dollar

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My top end is a bit rattly - I have done cam chain adjustments several times but the rattle is still there particularly when warmed up. So I figure check the valve clearance - easier said than done. I have the manual and all it says insert feeler gauge ..... how? I can't get my gauge any where near the valve stem - do I need a wire gauge? I am certain that I am on the TDC of the compression stroke but there is now way I can get my gauge down there (without bending it) and between the screw and valve stem -- there is very little movement in the rocker does that suggest the clearance is too small - but if so then that wouldn't explain the rattle would it?

Hi my TLR200 is gradually getting there but the rims are pretty ordinary and rare (read expensive) can anyone suggest an easy (read cheaper) alternative - I am not concerned about not being original I am looking for functionality.

Honda manual says Engine oil capacity 1.1 litres but under Lubrication it says 0.9 at draining - I guess that allows for oil in the filter rotor - so an oil change is 0.9 litres ( Clymer agrees) . Manual says fork oil level 118mm or 295cc +-2.5cc - Clymer manual states 207cc but that is 1986 probably Reflex and may have different forks. Given the discrepancy I reckon the 118mm is best measure

When I look at the slide in the Amal it feels like a very nice snug fit no noticeable movement - but who knows what it's like once it gets warm. As mentioned elsewhere I briefly retried the Mikuni - then replaced Amal. I checked the spacer and no visible cracks although it was slightly distorted on the carb side - I had previously reground the manifold face and so did the same with the spacer and got it nice and flat. I'm carrying a slight injury so haven't given it a real test but I am not confident.

I have to stress that I am not into restoration or concourse work - but I am very pleased with the plastic rejuvenator results http://www.andrewhunter.com/bikes/rearguard.jpg Now I need to redo the frame and the seat

You buy the replacement plungers in various lengths - my 3 claw pusher was also worn so I laid some metal on that with the arc welder and ground it flat - it too has been working happily for about 9 months . Cheers

Thanks Bo - I ordered them today - 12 pounds delivered .... ??? less than $20 AUD - good value

Hi - I got hold of a plastic rejuvenator kit for only $30 AUD and had a crack at the rear mud guard of my TLR200 - the results to me, are very impressive - I just hope it is as robust as they claim. So I started on the blue side panels - and on one of these the old TLR and another decal had fallen off but the plastic is still darker where they were and no amount of sanding seems to even it off. does anyone have any ideas on how to deal with this and/or can anyone tell me where I can get new TLR side panel decals from

Well took 1mm off to 2.5 (or 3.5mm from base)and no improvement - bogs down and sprays serious fuel out the air intake then as described above bahaves nicely once fuel is turned off ie: for a few minutes. The AMAL slide is a 3.5 but is that 3.5mm from base or 4.5mm from base as in the Mikuni - or is it 3.5 x 1/16 inch which would = 5.5mm ( from base or from 1.0mm above base... too confusing) Yet again stuck AMAL back on and went for a ride

I suppose so I might be lucky - I was given my TLR and spent $900 fixing up and spent $1400 on Cota 247 and spent about $700 ( and 200 hours ) so far - I thought the TLR on eBay didn't look any better than mine - in fact you could see the paint shadows on the exhaust so it was a bodge job - although the 125 looked interesting but that would value them at $1850 each ...

Once again reconsidering the Mikuni option - I read this in an article today "Throttle slides are quite expensive now, so if you don't have an assortment of them, you can use the "gas shut-off method" instead. With the engine running, turn off the fuel petcocks. If, as the engine gradually drains the fuel bowls, the roll-on response improves, you know the slide was too rich. Engines are often very sensitive to slide cut-away, down to 1/2 a cut-away number. If money is important, you can make a slide leaner by filling the cut-away (the raised entrance side of the slide) higher. If you try to make it richer, remember that this drops the needle by the same amount. " The "gas shut-off method" symptoms he describes are exactly what I described in a earlier post. Does anyone have experience in re-cutting the cutaway? .... if I stuff it up - it only cost me $30 for the carbie so what the hell?

Woooooeee - $3735 AUD or 2300GBP - that does surprise me - the little 125 must be a beaut!

I am sooooo tempted - the 125 looks perfect for my wife and the 200 ..... um ...well... I've already got one but two would be ok .... bugger eBay you mess with my mind http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290522947209&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Recommended fuel ratio is 4% so 25:1 - new oils are good but I don't have problems with fouling at that mix. Original manual states Gearbox SAE-90 - 300cc Clutch SAE 10 W30 200cc Forks SAE 20 or 30 190cc ( most people appear to use Auto Trans Fluid ATF) I used it last change and I think it is an improvement. Send me message I can shoot you a copy of the useful pages of the manual - most is in Spanish

This was my before and after - not pretty but it works. The correct plunger comes in various lengths for my 247 I ordered 8mm from the face to the cut away. If your existing plunger is less than 5mm - it is almost certainly the problem.

Manuel Mine starts ok even from hot (this was not always the case and why I tried the Mikuni before) and I actually bought a Mikuni and tried setting it up and agree - a nightmare. But the Mikuni I borrowed was already set up and ran fine but didn't fix the stalling and starting problem I had at the time. I have inspected the spacer and can't see any crack and I have tested for air leaks - but yes the test only shows external leaks not one that vented into the carbie - better check again. You mention a guy who resleeved the Amal - can you remember who he is?