keychange

Hi - I have the Amal blues, just can't get good all round performance after spending dough on new jets, needles etc - I have been fooling around with a 2nd hand Mikuni VM26 from a DT175. It is in good clean condition and I have made sure all the jets are clean and operating. I have rigged up a suitable adapter to connect to the original air box. When I kick her over it fires then dies - after a few kicks I remove the plug and it's always wet. I did get her running roughly only at high revs and loads of smoke ( engine must have been loaded up) so I removed plug and left it overnight to dry out ( fuel off). Next day I removed the air filter - double checked seat needle and float (no idea how to measure with this set up) but there is no flooding through overflow (which isn't blocked) . But no improvement it just won't run - sort of thinks about it then dies. I would have thought I would get it to go even with wrong jets and then gradually tune from there but it just won't run. Does this suggest that the jetting is hopelessly wrong or should I be looking for something more obvious.

John Haberbosch at Rocky Mountains Montesa http://rmmontesa.com/ has got me out of trouble on several occasions.

Gave up soldering float bowl - it would work for a week then leak again. New float bowl and new float needle - all fixed and local Honda dealer got me the parts in no time

My advice is ignore all your macho mates and fit a compression release. The 247's can be hard work and puts a lot of pressure on the kickstart gear - a compression release costs less than $50 and removes almost all of the the stress.

Make sure you have the wiring correct and the points mounted properly so that the contacts are correctly isolated from the engine. Then I'd start by checking the grounding - make sure if the frame or point on the engine where you earth has the paint or powder coating scraped off. Then double check your condenser and ensure it is earthed properly - they work best mounted under the tank rather than behind the magneto- you need to measure the resistance (ohms) of the coils - remove the spark plug out and turn engine over where points are shut they should read 0 or close to it when they are open should read .5- 2.5 ohms (approx) You can get the problem coils rewound for a lot less than a replacement and then you know it's right. But make sure you double check condenser..

greychapel is correct make sure the hose has no upward bends as air sits in these and no amount of bleeding will work.

I fall off a lot - coz I'm a crap rider but my worst injury was when my son riding behind lost control of his bike and it barreled into me (stationary at the time) and drove me and my bike backwards onto a rocky bank. That happened about 3 months ago and my shoulder is still pretty suspect - I bought the full mesh shirt kit and it works but I feel like an idiot - so I mainly just use the back support, thigh and knee pads and it does give me lot more confidence - but I'm still crap

Hi - my 82 TLR came with plain blue plastic side covers see photo which is how it looked when it arrived - I have tried painting the plastic to give it the authentic look but the paint ( VHT ) comes off. Am I wasting my time or can anyone suggest a paint that will stick to the plastic

Well there are no holes in my fins and no spring shows on any of the parts diagrams for the 247 that I have. I have wired it up before but that doesn't work as the thread just gives. I have refitted with Permatex Black silicon and I will have a go at drilling and hooking up the spring.

Hi I've had my Cota for 6 months or so its a 1976 247T and it has had a habit of the exhaust flange coming loose. I eventually discovered the thread in the barrel is crossed and worn and the flange simply won't hold. I removed the flange washer in order to try and get the manifold in another quarter inch and used Loctite Blue Max and this appeared to hold for the first ride but another 2 hour session and the whole thing is loose again. I am not sure what my options are as I have never encountered this type of problem before.

Turns out there were leaks in both floats but it is quite easy to solder. Tested several times in warm water first couple showed minute bubbles still slowly coming off but eventually I think I have it covered for now - I will keep my eyes pealed for a replacement. Thanks for your help

Thanks hondanut you're right om the money - one float is full of fuel with at least 4 holes that I can see. Looks like a job for the soldering iron or can you suggest a sealant that works Cheers Andrew in Oz

Hi - I am a new owner of a 1982 TLR 200 - in Australia. The bike was in pretty awful condition when I got it with lots of corrosion, rusty tank, tyre rotted out etc. I spend about 4 weeks cleaning it up and I filled it fuel and it fired first kick and ran - so far so good. I now have it running quite well but fuel pours out of the breather pipe when I place it on the side stand. To make matters worse the fuel tap in tank doesn't close so I fitted an inline tap - I know, I know - it means a 10 inch fuel line I have adjusted the float level as low as it will go - but the fuel still floods all over my newly painted casing The guy I got the bike from said that it was always a problem when he had it. Suggestions please. Cheers Andrew in Oz.

Just what does the mod kit fix?

Thanks guys, both of you

Hi I'm new to the forum and to TLRs I have acquired an 1982 TLR 200 that requires quite a bit of tidying up and replacement parts One thing I want to do away with is all the lighting and the battery. No problem removing all of it but I am concerned about what connections I have to jump in order to make it run without battery and not damage the CDI I am also on lookout for front and rear spokes. The gold rims are fine but spokes are very badly rusted. Cheers Andrew Dorrigo - Australia