keychange

Looking at Amal T80/200 Throttle will it operate with the standard cable?

I have just replaced all the wiring (not the coils) on my Cota and it is running nicely again. However I have always felt that the throttle response is just too sharp off the bottom - just the slightest incorrect movement on the right hand brake can induce a dangerous spurt ( I notice some gloves are more prone to causing this). I have read elsewhere of people fitting a slow response throttle on their TLRs - I can state categorically that the response on my Cota is way - way more than on my TLR with a standard throttle. I have ridden to a couple of MrB's Bultaco's and the smoothness of the power delivery is very noticeable. Does anyone have experience with fitting a slow action throttle on a Cota and if so are there any traps with cables etc and will it improve things for me. I have found this unit for around 14 quids in UK and welcome feedback or suggestions

Yes it is a conversion to tapered - I got mine from http://www.pyramidparts.co.uk/ tell them year and model and they appear to have a good handle on what takes what - and their service is great.

Two hours to remove old bearing and 10 minutes to fit new ones - thank Gott I don't have to do that too often.

Spot on Ross - thanks for that - now to get the blasted lower race out of the frame ... there is about 1 mm of bearing surface to work on

There is a cup around the base of the tree - I am worried about damaging this - or does it come off as well. My parts diagrams shows nothing

I don't think the problem is just the rear guard the frame appears to rise too steeply causing too much pressure on the fibreglass cowling - I had this problem when I tried fitting an old standard 247 cowling to my 1976 247 - so maybe the frames changes and it was just an older model cowling - although they are all very week and prone to breaking around there simply from riders reaching down to pull the rear end around. The barrel looks right but carbie inlet is completely different to my 76 model as are the crankcases much more like this 1969 model http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39529-cota-247-1969/ Front wheel definitely wrong way round ..how did they do that? Does it have the bolt for the support rod - if not that is why they reversed it - in order to turn it into sort of trailing mode shoe. So looks maybe a 75+ frame ( they were black) with earlier engine and god knows what front hub - have fun

I have just received my new tapered bearings and now I look at the old setup I am not entirely sure where to begin. Does anyone have any diagramatic instructions on a similar type of bike. I know I need to chill the small bits and warm the big bits. I have the old bearings out but I am not sure of best way to remove the lower races from the stem. I ordered the parts from Pyramid and great fast service but I also wonder if any spacers may be required etc or will the replacement just fit straight on. All advice welcome.

I tried JB Weld - so many people rave about it. I now have a nice toight fit but still waiting on wheel and steering bearings before I can try it out. If it works I hope to run it at my first official outing in Tamworth ( NSW ) this weekend. Cheers

so of course I pulled the swing arm off and then noticed brake side wheel bearing is seized ....steering head bearing shot ... thank gott for Pyramid parts. The bikes got a big workout by my kids over Xmas and then I had a problem with my bike shed so parked both bikes in the car port.... 2 weeks and 1004mm rain - I guess the Cota was exposed - or else I have just been really slack with my maintenance

It's about 1 mm of play on the bolt on the horizontal but that equates to quite a bit of movement. I thought of welding and that's fine - but filing a round hole..... beyond my skills.

I noticed excessive movement in the swing arm on my Cota 247 and I find that the pivot mounting holes on the frame itself have worn and are allowing the movement. Can anyone suggest an easy fix and failing that give me the hard fix options.

Where did you get them from ?

Wow you must have very lenient road registration rules .... but looks great and I look forward to the finished product

Yep lots more soap and 35 psi and she is sitting sweet

It's the front tyre .. I have been reading more tips etc and can't see anything I have forgotten. I think tomorrow I will deflate and pour 50/50 detergent in the rim and then inflate again. The inside rim was in good condition compared to corrosion on the rear but there are plenty of tyre iron marks from past changes and maybe these are grabbing the tyre ... I did give it a very good clean with wire brushes but maybe there is an old (or new) scuff catching...but the problem isn't in one spot - I can resit the tyre and it is then out of position eslewhere

I finally got round to fitting the Dunlop (had a busy Xmas) and with the aid of two shiny new tyre levers it was the easiest tyre change I have ever done. BUT - I can't get the tyre to sit straight in the rim. Pumped it right up and let it down , bounced it, pushed it , pulled it and poured buckets of soapy water but it just won't sit straight on the rim. I have a tubeless rear and that needed about 80psi to get the bead to pop in ..... but I wouldn't expect that on the dunlop. I did a new michelin on my Cota recently and had no problems...any tips appreciated.

Sam Running Castrol EPX80W90 in the gearbox and Castrol GTX in clutch - I agree the clutch oil has no impact on gear box. As Castrol say all oils ain't oils - I can vouch that running the Castrol product made a big improvement .. I haven't tried any other 80wt oils.

Sparks could be simply carbon build up in the pipe knocked loose by the fall - have you ever cleaned the pipe? Or it could be nasty - if in doubt take off the barrel and have a look at your piston.

I just saw a post in Montesa forum re: using ATF in a 315r and it reminded me to post my findings using ATF in my Cota 247. I had read in other forums 247 owners using ATF in both clutch and gearbox and so I gave it a try. First thing I noticed was the gears starting jumping ie: from one gear to another under power (usually 3rd and 4th ) and it was very difficult to select neutral once warm. I have no gasket for clutch cover so have been using silicon successfully in the past but this time it failed and so I had to redo and refill the clutch but I was out of ATF and so the original manual states SAE-10W30 but in the past I used GTX (not GTX2). Interesting well over a year ago the clutch pusher was worn and being steel I welded some metal on and smoothed it and away I went. Many people said it wouldn't work or would ruin the clutch however it has worked flawlessly when I removed it showed no signs of wear. So I feel comfortable with my GTX choice. However with the ATF still in the gear box it was still horrible to ride - jumping gears and on a longer ride now impossible to select neutral with the engine running. Maybe it was imagination but the engine seemed smokier and the thought of a dreaded left side engine seal loomed. The only gear oil I could get was Castrol EPX80W90 and the change is immediate - neutral has returned to normal as has the annoying jump out of fist back to neutral. All other changes are smooth and precise and the engine does not appear smokey (at least for now). So I will stick to using ATF in the forks only

That's one of the few problems I haven't had with my Amal - I suggest you grab a new adjustable float unit http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=37371 (check to make sure that is correct for your model). These work really well and worth the 13 quid

I ended up going with the Dunlop - the guys selling IRC wanted $140 including postage where as the Dunlop cost me $117 - ok call me a tight ar5e. Thanks everyone for your input

my experience with my Cota is retard tends to make it hot and any advance makes it a mongrel to start

David Believe it or not I make my living out of giving advice and I try to live by the adage - don't ask for advice unless you are prepared to take it. I know haven't always taken yours but I do respect it and so once again thanks and I will in this case go with the IRC ... now decide where to purchase ...

It's only $30 difference between IRC and Pirelli but what I read about IRC is VERY soft and I have this mixture of very soft wet ground and then very rocky then very muddy (we have 2 to 3 metres of rainfall and most of that is concentrated ex-winter) I was wondering of the IRC will handle the rocky stuff ok?