keychange

Tyre discussions appear never ending but that is probably due to the continued variation in costs. My TLR 200 has I think the original dual purpose block pattern (can't remember that make and it's raining too heavy to check) The old tyre is hard and cracked so I guess it's time to replace it. I have Michelins on my Cota 247 and it does ride nicely but when I inherited the TLR I never envisaged it would be as competent as it is and so I went for a VeeRubber tubeless on the rear - what a bugger to fit that was - but it has given me no problems and good wear running around 7 psi. I am not a competition rider - comps are all held too far away for me to be bothered ( the nearest I am aware of is 4 hours drive each way most much further) so I simply enjoy riding around where I live - mostly steep slippery trails with short periods of more testing rocks etc. The Michelins are bloody expensive and considering the strength of the dollar are no cheaper now than when the AUD was 60 cent US. I found a Dunlop D803 listed for $58 by a crowd pretending to be Australian morepowerracing.com.au but turns out to be US and they want $180 postage!!! Real Aussie sites are charging $100+ plus postage for the D803- where as I can buy Pirelli MT43 for under $80 which is the same price as a VeeRubber. The point is surely any one of these tyres will be a big improvement of the tired old antique currently fitted. Will I regret not spending near twice the price to have a Michelin front while still running the VeeRubber rear?

If you are still looking for a tank replacement this came up today on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130591377465&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1123

Hi I lost one of the side seat/tank body mount screws ( the ones with the large 20mm approx pan head ) . I have some spares but they are too short for the tank/seat that I am using. Can anyone suggest a supplier - or are they commonly available parts ... maybe I am not searching for the correct term.

Glad to hear you have it fixed - I would play with the mixture screw - quarter turn at a time then test until you get a nice clean burn.

The old keihin carbies are notorious for leaking floats ie: they gradually fill with fuel and don't float - results in overflow .... it was the first thing I had to do when I got my TLR. If you run carbie dry the fuel in the floats gradually evaporates and when you check they seem ok but 10 minutes after turning on fuel they start to sink Sooty plug indicates fuel rich which of course could be any part of the carbie mixture system however the way you describe the increase in revs and poor low performance sounds like the float level is not correct - level on your TLR should be 24mm - Failing this make sure you have the correct jets - the old jets may have been changed in an effort to fix the poor performance caused by floats Factory settings - main jet is #98 slow jet is #40 with needle on 2nd - air screw opening is 1 7/8 turns. Finally make sure your air filter is working properly - the holes on the top of the chamber could be blocked or if you are using a non standard seat it may be causing an air lock _ had this once on a farm bike, cost hundreds stuffing around just to realise the seat had been changed and was sealing the intake.

It's hard to tell with 'copy carbs" I think some are ok and some are rubbish. Does your plug indicate a lean mix? if yes check the o-ring on the copy is doing its job then look at the slide movement and compare to the original - the new one should be snugger but not tight - also compare slide cut-away to ensure they are the same. Did you use original needle - if not I would try that as well. Failing that throw away the copy and fix the original - they are a good carbie.

The original plus was B6H or Champion L-85 - Bosch W175T1 which is now represented as NGK B6HS A B5HS is a hotter plug may be suitable if you are really just plugging around no hard work at low revs in cool climate but I suggest you stick with the B6 - there is no reason I am aware of to use a BP and definitely not a BPR (unless you have a radio or GPS fitted to your Cota). Make sure you buy at least 2 - you should always have a spare new plug in your tool kit.

The LT problem can occur as the engine warms up and things expand - actually I think David also suggested that you check the mounts etc - I think he is looking at earth problems. I had similar issues with my TLR which was simply a loose earth connection on the frame - although for me it only caused an issue under higher revs. Also ensure that your earth connections are on bare metal not painted if so scratch the paint off. Charliechitlins is of course correct - check your tank breather as you may have an air lock

it is getting complicated with two posts on the same subject - As usual David's advice is good, I mentioned earlier a short in the LT - I had to replace mine also removing the lighting wires at the same time to reduce the clutter and pressure on the now single wire in the loom exiting the engine. I am not sure idf was the right thing to do but it works for me and I have no intention of refitting the lights.

Chris - I think as David has pointed out your Ossa has a CDI so there are no points or condensor - obviously much more advanced than the other spaniards of the day.

I am assuming the Ossa has some similarities to the Montesa - I just found my post on the Australian trials forum subject "Cota 247 Running Lean and Overheating" a post that ran from June 5th to Sept 7th last year In that we discussed and I replaced the condensor with no improvement NOTE: my Cota was not misfiring - you originally said missing and then that evolved to misfiring ~~ the condensor will certainly do that. The advice I got at the time was "You can use just about any condensor that is ment for pionts ignition. I have used VW beetle units and mounted them up under the tank next to the coil. Mounting the condensor up there keeps it a lot cooler and much easyer to change as well." I got mine from a local GM dealer - very old stock in a box of old parts probably from 6 cylinder - it worked ok and still does. Have a look on eBay for flywheel puller - if it's like the Montesa and Bultaco then you have to have one if you plan to keep the bike - there is no way of getting by without it.

Definitely the condensor first - they break down much more often, especially under heat and they are much cheaper than a coil to replace. But also check the points although they normally would be bad from scratch - you might have short in the low tension wire that only shows when hot ie: metals expand when hot and so can short out hot and not when cold. However condensor is a very common cause of misfire when hot - they only cost a few dollars

I would replace the condenser before the coil- if like the Montesa it is mounted under the flywheel - this is a good opportunity to remount it under the tank near the coil. However I would also reinstall the Amal just to see what happens - as that will prove if the carbie is the problem. With Amals don't just tickle the fuel - make sure the bike is fully upright or even leaning to the right as you tickle it and start with throttle full open... once you get used to them they are usually pretty easy to start. When you say "inlet hose fine" that doesn't cover all issues. The carbie flange (especially on the Amal) becomes distorted over the years and once the engine warms up things expand and air gets sucked in there. The mikuni should be better but it must have the correct o-ring or else you will have problems too. In either case do not over tighten the carbie flange or your throttle will stick wide open Don't despair just take a long breath and realise that it may take time but it will be worth it in the end. Keep the updates coming..

Sammy Miller in UK has 348 tanks new - it looks close so may be able to modify. I got hold of a brand new tank and seat a guy had in his garage - it was a 247 unit but I still had to make rubber spacers for mounts as it was wider than the original. Try John@rmmontesa.com Rocky Mountain Montesa - John has been able to help we with several hard to find parts.

looks like a bargain to me - well worth spending some time and money on - terrific little bike very versatile.

I'd stick to the recommended plug and try and fix the problem rather than treat the symptoms. What can cause the symptoms: timing, jetting and mixture setting, air leaking around inlet or in carbie, crank seals... it could be a combination and so you just have to start (with easy first) and work your way through. By the time it's over you will really know your engine much better

Read this then double check what mixture you should be running http://www.smokstak.com/articles/oils.html

I have set up tape around a hilly practise area and I find I go to pot even there. I seem to always have my weight on the wrong foot and before I know it I am leaning one way and the bike is heading the other. In another area I have cones and a balance bar and I am reasonably ok on that but as soon as I ride with tape or with other competent riders I am useless

Mick Andrew's video tip that I do remember is don't do the levers up too tight - just tight enough to stay and lose enough to move/slide when you drop it.... makes sense to me

No offence mate but it's people like you who bugger up eBay. If you bid more than you should - that's your problem - meanwhile you may have gazumped some guy who knows what he is about and had plans for the bike - don't buy without doing your homework - if you can't inspect the bike find someone who can or take your chances. If you pull out of the deal the seller has every right to bag you in feedback ... I would.

Brush up on your Spanish http://www.todotrial.com/ttclasico/manuales/manualesindice.htm I bought 247 18 months ago on eBay and it's best thing I ever did - but be prepared to learn and to tinker. If you purchased on eBay you have few rights to reject unless the item was misrepresented in the description. It's an old bike so you need to expect the unexpected - I think I spent about $1,000 AUD bringing my 247 up to mechanically reliable status. You have to premix your oil/fuel and it will be 4% or 25:1 fuel/oil mix. Have fun

I read my original post his morning and it occurred to me that the pick up coil connection could be loose - I cleaned it and first kick away she goes. Just went for a two hour ride with several stops some planned some not - started easily every time. I love Honda engines )

Great contribution - thanks for that

Initially it wouldn't restart - removed and cleaned carbie no better so I moved the high tension wire and other but around so as not to be touching frame - gave a fresh plug and away it went - ran nicely. But after that it was still a bit hard get started and was kicking back - so I backed off the decompresser but now it just won't start - it sometimes kicks a little as if it wants to go but nothing and kicking back a lot now... a sticky valve maybe? There is no timing adjustment so I am at a loss The kickstart itself is starting to feel a bit tired is it possible something is worn in the starter gearing. Help please

I gave my TLR 200 a bit of an overhaul and face lift - fresh fork oil, new brake shoes,grips, sealed the rusty tank, a fresh coat of paint and I am very pleased with the results but looking at the photo I see what I forgot... some air in the front shocks ... doh!