smelling123

I use the Todd GT100B on my bantam they have more finning than standard so the cooling is better - important on a trials bike as you dont get much air flow due to the low speed (and can be covered in mud). Also Bantams run hot because the barrel is quite small - again not as much fin are. I run it at about 11:1 (geometric) compression ratio with 1mm squish gap. Be careful if you 'big bore' it (to 185) - you will need to re-machine the squish band to suit the new bore size. The engines very smooth and has plenty power so I think these settings are about right - although it may stand more compression - I think the later Fantics ran about 12.5:1.

Many thanks for all the replies guys, will have a think about it....

Im going to be rebuilding a 325 and wondered if anyone has an opinion on wether its worth boring to 340ccs ?? Anyone had any experience of this and was it an improvement?? What size piston do the 340s use? I guess the head will need machining to suit which is no problem - what squish clearance is prefered?? many thanks Stu

Maybe Falcon steel bodied units would be a good compromise. Much better than Betors in performance in my opinion and (I think) about

Hi, Mine did exactly this. I tried new condensor and also fitting it under the tank. Eventualy changing the points completely solved the problem. FOr the money versus hastle Id just fit new points and condensor - they'll last for years. cheers Stu

If you search this site there are lots of people who complain that the Hebos crack and dont last long (this was the reason I didn't buy them). I bought Forma Boulder which were about

I run a Suzuki piston and just made my own bronze bush (phosphor bronze - NOT BRASS). This has been in for a few years and seems fine - I run about 1mm squish clearance with a Todd head at 11:1 and all is fine. I agree that the Rex Caunt pistons are a better solution and good price.

Hi, Yes you need to remove the cover to access the sprocket nut. I have used a battery powered impact wrench to remove and fit the nut for a while now without any problems (and you dont need to lock the rod with this). They come loose easily so you should use a locking washer - having said that using the wrench I no longer use a washer (I use a thicker sprocket so there isn't as much room/threads on the sleave gear. cheers Stu

I have some alloy Falcons and they no longer use the circlip type pre-load adjustment, they have a threaded body with double locknut - you get 2 spanners with them. Never tried the rockshocks but the falcons seem excellent - much better than any betors ive owned. My only reservation is consistent critisim from people on this site of response time for support (although I havent experienced any problems myself) - not good if you have a damaged set and need a repair. Most comments seem to endorse the support for Rockshocks. I'd never considered a 'home rebuild' but sounds feasible based on Woodys post. Do you know what pressure should be used Woody? Incidentally, lots of car tyre outlets will fill tyres with nitrogen - not sure if they could achieve this with the falcons as I seem to remember you need a special pump due to the low volume ?? Last comment is the weight of the falcons - really light! Oil heavier than nitrogen..

many thanks sounds good. Anyone else have an opinion on this?

Hi, I keep hearing about having the exhaust packing done properly on the middle and back box - it is in fact mentioned in Don Morleys book, and how it can affect performance but I cant seem to find a definitive answer on what is correct. So..can anyone confirm? Is it supposed to be very tightly packed or is looser packing better? many thanks Stu

Letter arrived today, not in - gutted.

Many thanks sorted.

Hi, Where is the gearbox oil drain on the 199a Bult? Doesnt seem to be in the same place as my 190 - or am I cracking up... thanks in advance..

I use ND (Nippon Denso) - used to use them in the race bike and they always gave more power than NGK. Never had a problem with them. You can get the correct equivalent from the previously mentioned www.sparkplugs.co.uk - who are fantastic to deal with and good on price too.

Also further to Woodys post - there is an eccentric adjuster that can be played with to make sure you get all the gears. Its shown on Woodys picture, but the adjuster isn't fitted - its should be in the steel plate which is shown near the right side of the picture. This is held in position by a 6mm nut - back off the nut, rotate the eccentric adjuster a bit and then nip up the 6mm nut. Try for all gears, repeat until it works. cheers Stu

Hi Roger, Inside the primary drive casing (left hand side of the engine as you sit on the bike) there is a mechanism that the gear pedal operates. This is the 'ratchet' type mechanism that turns the gear box selector drum. They are robust but it may have seized or become a bit sticky if the oil is very old. You dont need an engine strip, just take off the primary drive casing and give it a clean. While you're at it, you can try selecting the gears and see if the selector drum is turning to select - if it is, you may have a gearbox problem which will require a full strip. Hope you get it sorted. cheers Stu

Hi Ben, 159 is a 350 (or actually 325ccs). Not sure of piston diameter but the 250cc version is 70-72mm so if yours is in the 80's it'll defo be a 350. cheers Stu

Hi Woody, I was told about Texaco (only the 'high octane') being ethanol free but of course wanted to check. My local garage called the head office in the UK for me and they confirmed this to be true - again only for the high octane stuff. Whether this will be the case for the future...who knows... Of course, if the tossers in Brussels think ethanol is necesary they must be right - they got everything else right...like the European economy....??!! The other alternative is buying race fuel, or if you can get it, AvGas is still ethanol free. Some small airports will sell this - its not cheap but not as much as proper race fuel.

As mrb505 says, the test will feed through the low tension side of the coil to earth so the tes wont work unless you remove the coil wire. Glad you sorted it.

Hi mate, Its Texaco not Tesco! I use Putoline MX6 at 40:1, seems very good.

Texaco 'High Octane' is ethanol free (at least for now). Seems to be fine. Previously, using V-power, I drained the tank between events which also seemed to work (but is a bit of work).

Thanks very much Woody, Think I'll stick with the tubeless to be honest. cheers Stu