Tear the carb down and report back with needle jet, main jet and pilot jet numbers. They are stamped on each part.
Instead of tape or "snuggest" of the carb to manifold a better test is to spray carb cleaner on the joint will the bike is running. A change in rpm denotes a leak.
Hello,
I tore the carb down and found the jet numbers. They are as follows:
Any one know of any little tricks to fix the notorious TL 125 off idle cough?
I know a big bore kit will do it but that's not really a LITTLE trick.!
Hi Brian,
This may not be 100% kosher, but I have found that engaging the choke lever a 1/4 to 1/2 way on a TL-125 cures the cough condition, and the bike still runs reasonably well at higher speeds (though probably not optimal for higher speeds). I've never heard anyone else mention this remedy, but it works for me! You might want to give it a try.
Try raising the needle a notch or two. It sounds as if its just a shade weak just as it starts to come off the idle jet. If you can get one try a size larger idle jet. Perhaps go through your carb clening again with extra care on the slow running jet and passages to and from it. Check the number of turns ut of the slw running mixture adjustment screw.
Cheers
PS just had a thought - is your slide worn near the cut away, this cancause weakness just as throttle starts t open.
Thanks, I'll give that a try. The needle does appear to be down almost as low as it will go, so there is certainly room to raise it. The slide appears to be nice and snug.
If it is what I call the square bowl Amal - fitted 75 on - just check the overflow pipes coming from each side.
They are joined from side to side as standard BUT there is a slit in the tube - which in effect means they are two separate tubes with open ends. Sometimes people see the split and fit a new piece of pipe - if you have done this just cut pipe in half with a scissors and try bike
Thanks for the input. The bike is a Model 91, which I believe is 1972-74 time frame. It has a concentric carb, with no overflow tubes.
Coming off of a no throttle condition, my engine goes through a brief "flat spot" where it nearly stalls. Advancing the throttle just a bit farther makes it suddenly 'spring' to life and it runs well from there on up to high RPMs. I thoroughly cleaned out the carburetor, even all of the little passages (all that I could find, anyway) and the bike continues to run erratic at low speeds. A possible clue: Adjusting the air mixture screw on the carb seems to make very little, if any, difference in how the engine runs. I thought perhaps the rubber insulator was leaking between the carb and block, so I tightly wrapped the joints with electrical tape--just as a test. It made no difference that I can tell. Anyone have any ideas of other things I can try?
Thanks, I got in touch with Mike at the Tryals Shop and he provided a wealth of information on trials in this area. I have another request in for some parts needs.
I'm new to Trials Central and just wanted to say hello from Rochester, NY. I rode trials in the mid-to-late 70s as a kid, and am now thinking of getting back into the sport. I have a 13-year old son who is showing great interest in trials, and we recently went to a vintage meet near here to watch. For most of the last 20+ years, I have had a Bultaco Sherpa T 250 and a Honda TL-125 in storage in my garage. I am now working to get them back in working condition. They only need some minor work (gummed carbs, cables freed up, etc.). It's great to see the interest in vintage bikes after all these years! I hope that I can get a tip or two from the knowledgeable folks on the forum. Wishing you all "cleans" in this year's season! --Kevin, Rochester, NY.
--Kevin, Rochester, NY.
Sherpa T 250 Erratic Carb
in Bultaco
Posted
Hello,
I tore the carb down and found the jet numbers. They are as follows:
Needle Jet 106
Main Jet 160
Pilot Jet 20