Hi as the title says i would like to change my brake pedal from the current LHS to the RHS on my FB. My other bike is RHS brake and i feel much more comfortable and balanced this way.
so im planning on running a cable through from the RHS to get back to the LHS to operate it. Theres a picture of Norman Shepherd on the yorkshire site members photo and he has this setup, but i just wondered what the setup was like on the opposite side of the bike.
the plan is to maybe weld a block on LHS at rear, tap it, and then use a cable stop adjuster like you get in the universal clutch/brake cable kits.
Anyone have any ideas or guidance what to do or more importantly not to do?
Iron master, don't worry! Clubs want riders. I have only been involved in trials for about 2 years but have never experienced any issue with anyone regarding bikes eligibility etc. I only built my pre 65 bike late last year and, wherever possible I tried to do things by the book as such. But I used Mz forks as they were all I could get/afford at the time. I made them look like they were older but I experienced no problems where I ride. I have since changed them to REH, not pre65 (67) but British and they work better than my mz's. And I'm still on points no pvl here. I agree that rules should be followed and would have no problems having to ride my bike in specials class if deemed necesary. I still look at every class when I'm comparing my results anyway. I have modernised my bike slightly, footrests lowered etc but I believe I have kept it in the spirit of the sport and is a compromise between an original bike and a modified fully sorted one. Have a look in the garage and see Ride what you have werever you can and enjoy it for what it is.
good luck with the project. My dad has a c15T and its a great bike. I think biggest issue we had was ground clearance, but with new forks and a little frame tuck its fine now. keep us all posted.
he removed the whole bottom of the tank ( it was leaking a little before the drop) removed the dent, welded all the bottom back solving the previous leak and fixing the one caused by this drop, and repositioned the fuel tap neck which had also been damaged and was leaking.
i had a slight off at the weekend at the Peak round at Bracken Rocks. Unfortunately i didnt get chance to throw myself under the tank to protect it from a nasty log.
The result was quite ugly to look at and was leaking quite badly.
On the way home i found the details of M.E.S.S http://www.messcheshire.co.uk and spoke to Dave there who told me he could sort it.
Dropped it of on Tuesday morning, by 4pm it was ready.
Fantastic service and a really good finish. he also does all kinds of ally welding and fin repairs etc.
Hi Monty Jon. Sellers name is belspar. They were sold as cub yokes but I think the spindle may have been a bit short. Very well made but will probably need a longer spindle. I have some on my honda too. Actually wouldn't mind another set for the fb I've just built.
hi, this is my dads C15T which he got last year. it was standard and had the external sprung forks etc. As you say there isnt too much ground clearance so that was the main task in getting the bike ready. Initially we just replaced the front springs as there was quite a bit of sag in them. This didnt really help much and it was decided that the front forks would be replaced. We settled on MZ forks, not pre 65 but look the part especially when the seal holders are added and i think they were slightly longer than standard so helped again with ground clearance. Also i managed to get some alloy yokes to suit and these were added.
We had the head angle altered slightly to tuck the wheel in which probably gave us a little extra ground clearance and the footrests dropped and moved back a little.
I think the rear shock length is now 360mm, but will need to check. With the mods i think the bike now has around 12-13" of clearance.
thanks for the help guys, managed to get them appart to get to the seals.
couple more questions,
1) is the rebound adjustable on these forks? spent the other weekend pogo-ing from rock to rock!
2) seals are odd in each leg eg. one leg has a small and a large seal, other leg 2 large seals? is this correct?
also does anyone have a exploded diagram of these forks?
thanks
When you get them apart, you could weld a M10 rod coupler (long nut) on the top of the dampner. This will allow you to hold the dampner tight when you tighten and then undo in the future.
Changing Rear Brake From Lhs To Rhs
in Pre-65 Bikes
Posted
Hi as the title says i would like to change my brake pedal from the current LHS to the RHS on my FB. My other bike is RHS brake and i feel much more comfortable and balanced this way.
so im planning on running a cable through from the RHS to get back to the LHS to operate it. Theres a picture of Norman Shepherd on the yorkshire site members photo and he has this setup, but i just wondered what the setup was like on the opposite side of the bike.
the plan is to maybe weld a block on LHS at rear, tap it, and then use a cable stop adjuster like you get in the universal clutch/brake cable kits.
Anyone have any ideas or guidance what to do or more importantly not to do?
thanks..