Thank, Tony27. Indeed it does hold onto some oil if you don't work it out. The manual says that after loosening the bolt at the bottom of the fork you should compress the forks a few times to release all of the oil. I removed the cartridge prior to compressing the forks and then just moved the push rod in and out by hand and found that it held on to 60cc. That's a pretty huge amount seeing how the entire capacity of the fork is 330cc. So, thanks for pointing that out. One tip I have is to simply measure the old oil to make sure you are removing/replacing the proper volume.
For those following this thread that are interested in how Wayne's directions vary for the cartridge-type forks, well, it's pretty much the same. In lieu of a spring/spacer/fork assembly, there is a cartridge that has a push rod that goes in and out - it comes out as a single unit. The bolt at the bottom of the fork that allows you to drain the oil also keeps the cartridge in place at the bottom. The push rod coming out of the cartridge connects to the cap at the top. I'm a noobie, so there may be considerations that should be taken that I didn't. But after watching a few generic videos of how to replace seals on any cartridge-type motorcycle fork, I felt comfortable with just going for. It turns out to be a very simple job.
One thing that's been mentioned in another thread is a substitution for the fork driver tool. For $1.09 I got a foot of PVC pipe at my local hardware store that worked perfectly. Either take a good measurement, or do like I did and bring the fork leg in to the store to get the right diameter/thickness.
