bestrcpilot

The m151 is a 75-76 the motor should be the same number as the frame. And a m151 is a 326cc motor. Nice find and have fun with it.

Is the mini Majesty tank and seat the same as to TY 175 Majesty tank and seat ? I ask as I have a mold to make the Ty175 seat tank. My tank is not a copy taken from a Majesty.

I would like to know about the exhust? Not a stock middle box or a WES and what end box? Great looking TY put a chain on it and ride.

I did a thread about using the YZ clutch covers on here a quick search should find it.

I would like to own a new Yamaha trials bike. wish they would make one. But the back flip just goes to show the modern trials is something that should be in the X-games and is even in the name that the FIM is using now X-Trials.

Here are the Pictures of my TY175 with a DT175 swingarm I hope As you can see I moved the front mount closer to the engine. And as the DT175 swingarm is wider at the back then the TY175 arm I had to use a 1/2 inch spacer on the left side.

I used a swingarm from a 1975 DT175 it is longer then the Ty175 arm by about 2.25 inches. It needs the brake arm mound cut off and moved. I'll post pictures when I get to my laptop.

The crank cases are not stock ty175 cases nor is the clutch cover case. Wonder which bike they are from or one offs ?

Should be chrome plated.

And which twin shock Yamaha ? I tried to fit a mono swimg arm to a TY175, but found it to long and ended up using a DT175 swimg arm and moved the pivot point forward .

For the people in and around upstate New York. The annual night trials is this Saturday the 23th in Warsaw Ny. on Saltvale Rd. A good time is going to be had by all, or just come and sit around the bomb fire and tell storys. We will start about an hour before sun down. And yes I will be bringing some adult WV drinks with me. There will be food for all or bring a dish to pass. Hope to meet all the old friends and make some new ones.

My trick to bleed front brakes is to stand the bike on the back wheel with the front up a wall, so that the bike is doing a wheelie and the front brake caliper is higher then the master cylinder. Bleed and let stand over night in the wheelie and rebleed the next night. This works for the back brake as well but doing a nose wheelie.

I used a piece of radiator hose on the outside of the pipes. Like on a Bultaco.

The TY250chain Guard is the same as the TY175 Except for the front cut out for the swing arm on the 175.

I run mine between the reed block and the rubber carb mount. It seem to help the bottem end a little. But I made mine so the it fits the hole in the rubber and then tapers to the sq hole in the reed block. I also run the rubber intake from a RD350 which centers the carby. Hope this is what you wanted.

Having run all 3 of the Exhaust pipes on my Ty175. The stock setup was the Quietest one and also the Heaviest. The two piece setup with mid box with rear Silencer a little louder and lighter then stock, did not find any Performance changing the motor. The SM one piece with out rear silencer is the lightest and I did find that the motor did run better and revs better. It is also the loudest. And running the short front pipe also help the motor run better.

A search of the Yamaha form should give you the answer you're looking for. There are a couple of threads about the air box

Try feebay for the shifting drum. As for the piston the older ty250 twin shock piston will work, but you will need to bush the wistpin bore in the piston. Or find a wristpin bearing in the right size. The TY 175 wistpin is 16mm and the TY250 wristpin is 18mm.

Where are you in the hillbilly? I to am in WV and may be able to help you. My 348 likes to flood when left sitting. take the tank off and pull the plug, turn the whole bike upside down and pull the kicker threw make sure you are holding the kill switch so it cann't spark! Don't want it catch fire. When the gas stops coming out try a dry plug in it. Alway turn the petcock off when letting the bike sit. By the way I'm in Buckhannon

Check the reeds. make sure they are seating good on the reed block. No light showing between the reeds and the Reed block when held up to a light.A broken or non sealing reeds will make it run rich and down on power. I do not think you could have done any harm burning out the exhaust. I did mine and never any harm done.

Is the chrome on the slide and showing brass. Is the bore for the slide in the carb showing any Rough spots or Groves in it? I could not get my ty250 mono running right until a carb change. Like your's it would foul plugs and just run like crap. One time it would seem lean next it would run rich. But before buying a new carb burn out the exhaust. Does it run Differently when it gets finally warmed up? Is the coil getting a good ground? Rust on the mounting lug for the coil can give you fits.

I check the piston with a Micrometer and the cylinder with a bore gauge. And I check the cylinder from the top to bottem. As I have found that the bore at the top and bottem can be good and just below the exhaust port can be a lot out of round. A little work with a die grinder can make a huge inprovement to the way the motor runs. Start with the tranfer ports where the cylinder meets the case. Match the cylinder to the cases and make sure the gasket does not cover any part of the port. The Bridge between the transfer port is thined out and knife edge as much as you can get it. This is at the bottem of the cylinder base. Then clean up the exhaust port and get rite of any casting flash and make the port as close to a mirror finish as you can get it. Then do the intake port the same way. There are lots of vidios on utube for Porting and polishing a two stroke. I run my Ty 175 without a base gasket just a light film of RTV in order to bump the Compression a little and to lower the exhaust port timming a little. As I said earler the stock heads can be all over the place as far as compression and Squish are Concern. I find that getting the squish set to .050 works for my ty. There also videos that expain what the squish is and how to check it and how to set it.

Ok it could be a lot of things going on. Try the carb and air box off the good one on the bad one. Check the intake rubber for cracks or spilts. If all is good and the exhaust is clear then into the motor. Try changing the heads. The compression ratio on these bikes changes a lot from head to head. While the heads are off check your bored size you may have a 125 jug. A 175 has a stock bore of 66mm. What is the piston to bore Clearance? What is the ring gap? Is there a stuck ring? Is the piston Scored? is the bore good, still round?

My tank is on a Yamaha. But looking at your tank I would say that the front mounts like a Bultaco tank/seat does.. And the back with a couple of bolts to the rear fender. And yes you can use the seat if it sits on the frame rails

This is what I do. Fix the crack using a exopy from the hobby shop, the kind that is used on RC airplanes and fiberglass cloth. Then coat the inside with Caswell tank sealer. Never leave gas in the tank always drain the tank after a ride and never use a one way value on the vent line. Still using a SM tank I fixed this way for 4 years now