bestrcpilot

I would change the oil and try again. When they had the motor apart to redo the piston, some of the water could have gotting into the motor. Good luck

Hello All Have you tried Southwest Montesa. Great to deal with and Knows his Montesa He on the web at www.southwestmontesa.com/

I tried what you are asking, by using a set a Montesa Triple trees machined to take the Yanaha stem with the fork tubes parallel to the stem. It was not a fun ride. Felt like I was falling off the front of the bike all the time. And going down hill with it it felt like the bike was going to filpover the front wheel. If I was going to try it again I would use a set of forks with a leading axel setup like on the Bultacos.

Here is My TY175 with all the mods I posted earler Scott

Steve moving the top Shock mount and adding 360mm shocks are a good Start to modding a TY175. Lower and move back the footpegs is a also something that needs to be done. Lose the stock airbox and make or find one that flows better. Change out the stock front forks for some off a TY250 ts or even better a TY350 mono. Cut off all the extra tabs and footpeg mounts. Change out the top triple tree in order to get the handle bars forward. Change out the stock gas tank and seat for a fiberglass tank& seat. Now the best mod I have done so far is to move the front swingarm mount, so the the DT175 Swingarm is right up to the back of the motor. This lets the bike keep the stock lenght wheel base, but stop the front end from coming up on big up hills, and still lets it out turn most all the bikes of the day. Now for the motor. Use a left side case from a yz175. I forget which year but I have posted on here how to use the yz case and the mods to it in order the fit the ty motor. Lose the old stock carb. A 24mm flat slide is a great upgrade. Lose the stock exhaust for a WES or SM one. Build or buy a shorter front pipe. Use a intake rubber from a Yamaha RD350, It puts the carb in the center of the reed cage not offset to the left. I find the best reeds are a 2 stage setup. A 1/4 inch alum. spacer between the reed cage and rubber intake. Clean up all the intake and tranfer ports to a align the ports to the cylinder liner. I set the squish band in the cylinder head to .040 inch. and reshape the head combustion champer so that the plug hole is in the center of the combustion champer. I also find that the stock ignition with points works well with the points set to open at .090 inch. before TDC. This is all with the motor bored out to 66.5 mm, Now if going out to 70mm (ie 200cc kit) then these setting will change. Now if you really want to built and killer motor. Then use a big bore kit from a Yamha Blaster to take it out to 70mm bore and the crankshaft from said atv. The crankshaft in the stock atv is 3mm longer and you can get some that are up to 7mm longer then the stock ty175 crankshaft. But it is something only if you have a full machine shop to work in as the cases need to be highly modded to get the blaster crankshaft to work. But it does make a killer 260cc This should get you started thinging. When I get this new laptop up to speed I will post some pic. of my ty175 for you. Scott

Nice nice bit of work. I like the ty80 tank and the yz side case. How is it to start with the cut down kicker?

The Ty250 Mono and the TY350 Mono both ran the same kickstarter on them. They are very long. It is almost to long Hope this helps

Try turning the gas off. Take plug out. Turn bike upside down. Kick the kicker threw. See if anything comes out of the plug hole. I have a Monty which will not start unless it is cleared out this way after the bike sits for a couple of weeks. Or if the plug fouls when at high revs. If the motor is flooded this is a easy way to clear it out. If motor still will not start find a steep hill and POP start it in 4th or 5th gear

Tony Ahrma is dead and soon to be gone when it comes to trials. I have been to one Ahrma trial. It was the WV trial a year ago. Before I even got the bike off the trailer, I had five people come up to it and tell me that the bike was not legal to ride. Now this is a tricked out TY175 with a Fiberglass tank&seat, Miller exhaust, shorty front pipe, home made air box, layed down shocks. I have ridden this bike all over the Northeast and never had anyone say the bike was not legal to ride. So I never took the bike off the trailer. But I just left. I live within 2 hour of where the trial was held and I will never go to a Ahrma event again. This same trial the WV Ahrma I think had a total of less then ten riders. I could understand it if they had 100 plus rides, but when only 10 show up and ride for a National trial then something is really wrong. Ahrma may it rest in peace Wvtrials

Well the new Mikuni Flat Slide TM 24mm Carburetor got here. After having to make a collar so the new carb would fit in to the manifold. On to the bike it went. The only trouble is the choke and air bleed screw are on the wrong side. It was ready to go. First test ride was great. Revs a lot faster then with the stock carb and still pulls like a train down low, but hit the gas and it goes and pulls right out to max revs. No more going flat in the upper revs. More like a modern engine. Was the old stock carb worn out maybe. Was the old stock carb too small maybe. I would have to say it was the best mod yet to the bike. All of the mods to this point help, but this one really woke the motor up.

I guess they are all in the USA. I just bought a Ty250 mono and a Ty350 mono. As some of the clubs on this side of the pond are allowing and setting up classes for the air cooled Mono. I think there is going to be more demand for these bikes. Keep looking they are out there in the back of people sheds.

Hello Tee Why I've running a NOS stock Mikuni re-jetted. The motor works real well down low and in the mid range. It's just, I would like it to rev quicker with out losing the bottom end that the flywheel gives it. And the motor goes flat at the top end. ie.. flat out in 3rd. in the deep mud and super big uphill climbs. I thought it was the points bouncing at high RPMs but after a CDI upgrade, still the same. And I have tried 190 to 300 main jets and found that a 245 main works the best. A new Mikuni 24mm Flat Slide is on the way.

Thanks That was what I wanted to hear.

Hello Has anyone put a 24mm Flat Slide carb on a TY175? I'm thinking about putting one on but is it worth it? I've already done most of the mods you can do to a Stock Ty motor. Ie.. 200cc big bore kit and porting to the jug and Head. SM exhaust and a shorter head pipe. Alum. air box for better air flow. Better reeds and reed spacer plate. Some of the weight removed from flywheel. Don't get me wrong the motor runs great. And pulls like a freight train. I would just like it to pick up the revs a little faster. Thanks and here is a Picture of the bike

Yep The Ty 175 stock forks are 28mm Sorry about the size of the ty250 forks. I've been swapping forks and triple trees around on my Ty175 of late. I've ended up using Ty250 forks with Montesa triple tree. That is where I got the size messed up in my head.

Ty 250 forks on a Ty175 YES The Ty175 where build back in the day for school boys, so the forks are setup for someone under 150lbs. As someone that is well over that I changed out to the Ty250 forks on my Ty175. And found that the twist that I was getting in the front wheel when riding rocky stream beds was gone. And I can now drop off 3 to 4 foot drops with out bottoming out the front end. The stock fork legs are only 28mm dia. and the ty250 fork legs are 35mm. the triple clamps are the same casting with the ty250 and the ty175, so you can bore out the ty175 clamps for the ty250 forks. Put the trick springs and damper rods and you will love the setup.

Hello Yeogene How is the new Fantic going? You should post some pic of it, when you get the time. I would like a copy of the manual, as they say they are hard to come by.

If it is a 348 then it's not a 1970. The 348 came out in 1975 the earliest. The 2325 means that it is the 2325th one made. Hope this helps

I tried the 10w-30w and found the forks to stiff, then tried ATF and found the forks to much bounce in them. ie... to fast on the rebound and to easy to bottom out. I found that 15 weight fork oil to be about right. This was with a stock setup and stock springs.

For Me it's got to be Sammy Miller The man could ride and win on anything.

Is this one you are looking for http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af141/bestrcpilot/100_0327.jpg

I have been Riding Moreland Gate Trials for 3 years now and I love it. The Moreland Gate trials came from the brain of Carl Peter's. You people on the east coast know of him. The scoring for a Moreland Gate trial is simple. A Start and a end, with 5 gates between the start and end. Each gate is 1 point. The rider picks witch gate or gates to ride. So if a rider goes throw the start and then 5 gates and then the end the rider gets 5 points. If at any time the rider puts a foot on the ground or a dab then the rider gets a 0 zero. The rider must make a clean ride in order to get points. When setting up sections have a line that someone on a MX bike can get threw, A guy riding the #4 line might get one gate, #2 line might get 3 gates and a guy riding the #1 line might get 5 points. But if the rider on the #1 line puts his or her foot down then they get a 0 zero when someone on the #2 line can get 3 points on a clean ride. Each rider gets to pick there own line and gates, so there are no spits The riders score themselves and high score wins. For a better understanding go here http://www.ntrtrials.com/docs/gateScoring.pdf

This is normal for a Bully

ngk b7es

Most add a inch to the swing arm behind the lower shock mount and it seems to help. I added 2 1/2 inches to the front of the swing arm and moved the pivot point ahead, ie.. closer to the motor by 2 1/2 inches. This mod takes a lot of cutting and welding but does really seem to help with the rear wheel hopping on the down hills. You say that it flips over a lot, Do you mean back over front or front over the back?